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McLeod RXT dual disc clutch, Hydramax hydraulic T.O. bearing installed since Oct and I have PROBLEM

I'm sorry, all I can say is it fixed itself.
It was behaving as though it was not fully disengaged, and then all of a sudden it started working properly.
 
I'm sorry, all I can say is it fixed itself.
It was behaving as though it was not fully disengaged, and then all of a sudden it started working properly.
I've messed with a couple factory type hydraulic clutches that just took forever to bleed
 
I've messed with a couple factory type hydraulic clutches that just took forever to bleed
The American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing comes "pre-bled' FWIW, and my best guess is something in the dual disc clutch setup was rubbing. There are 6 friction surfaces w/that assembly.
I'd certainly like to know what the problem was, but I'm more relieved it has been resolved.
 
According to the shop owner, mine is .127" which, if true, is close to the limit of "closeness" relative to the diaphragm spring. What that should do is compress the diaphragm spring more than if it was farther away

Not how that works actually. The master displaces "x" amount of fluid per stroke which moves the slave the same distance no matter where it's shimmed.

If it's close to being compressed all the way you have no room for disc wear (fingers get closer to slave as discs wear).

If the slave started out too far away (too much travel to max compressed distance) you may reach the limit of travel.

Only way to compress the diaphragm more (more slave travel relative to master) is 2 ways.

1- Lower the master mounting point on the clutch pedal (more travel less leverage), if there is any room for that and doesn't mess up geometry.

2- larger bore master. (more fluid moved by same input distance)
 
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