Metal gas line going to carb?
- Thread starter Myasylum
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sam dupont
Well-Known Member
Not to get nosy, but why? I would assume the engine moving and rubber degradation might cause problems long term. I know repops are available for a lot of cars, or make your own. If you do't have a pattern, use #9 copper wire or coat hanger to make one and brake line from the parts store.
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If you use rubber, make sure it's rated for ethanol. The higher ethanol content in today's fuels is not compatible with long life for the standard grade rubber fuel hoses. I've seen some standard non-ethanol rated rubber lines fail in less than a year.
You can use rubber (or whatever the ethanol rated stuff is called) between the fuel pump and carb but as Sam pointed out, it will be subject to more wear than metal. Another option is to use braided 6AN line. It's a little pricey but looks way better than rubber and is less prone to wear.
A lot of people consider it unsafe vs a steel line, especially around all the heat and moving parts on an engine. Of course there are short pieces at the pump and gas tank usually and my Hemi has 4 short pieces at the two fuel filters, one of which failed on me recently and was only 6 months old. It was cheap laminated restoration fuel line - probably from China. I would run steel to the carburetor as far as you can and all the way if possible. If you need to run a short piece of rubber, get the best quality, ethanol-rated line you can find.
I have witnessed gas spraying out of an aged rubber hose directly onto an exhaust manifold, after a run down the track.
Not cool to say the least.
Not cool to say the least.
DrewTX
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't go with that length of rubber hose from the fuel pump to the carb. Too many moving things and heat around there. Totally go with the AN lines. Here it is for only $14 on Amazon.
wrap the hose with electrical tape at your cut line and use a cutoff wheel to cut in the middle of the tape.
If your not using AN fittings, leave the tape on
Personally I'd go with AN fittings over using hose clamps with covers for a neater install, but that's just me
If your not using AN fittings, leave the tape on
Personally I'd go with AN fittings over using hose clamps with covers for a neater install, but that's just me
Narrow width blue painters tape can work as well if it's wrapped on tight and neat.
Gus chiggins
Well-Known Member
The rubber will degrade over time. Gasoline hitting a hot intake manifold. Flame on!
An intake manifold is not hot enough to start a gasoline fire.
An exhuast manifold perhaps but even then it would need to be run very hard.
A spark is more of a concern with alot of vapor in the area.
Fuel pump to carb metal lines are pretty easy to find new definitely avoid a rubber line.
All factory Mopar fuel systems with carburetors use rubber between the tank and feed line. And at the fuel filter. The fact that you want to use a longer length shouldn't change anything. Tret it like you would the OE hose. Make sure its away from the manifolds and rotating parts. Braided steel line is just rubber inside as well. Unless you but PTFE. The braided line can be cut with either a cut off wheel with tape wrapped around the braid. Or a very sharp cold chisel against a block of aluminum.
Doug
Doug
I use PTFE lined Ethanol safe rubber line with a heat sleeve over it that feeds a metal fuel log. Works well, no fuel leaks at all in 7 years.
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I just made a braided steel -AN fitting fuel line for this very purpose. It was easy. Just get braided steel line with PTFE rubber hose insides, mark where you need to cut, wrap TIGHTLEY with electrical tape, cut in the middle of the tape with hacksaw with lots of teeth or a cut off wheel. Use the cut off wheel to nibble away any stray ends, Clamp the female fitting in soft jaws of a vise, or do what I did and hold it against the side of your workbench while pushing the line into it hard and turn the fitting with a AN wrench until the line is seated all of the way in the fitting. You can tell by looking into the other end and see it. Once you have that, wrap the line with tape right up next to the fitting so you will be able to tell if it pushes back out in the next step. Then take the male fitting half and push it into the center of the rubber inside line, use some WD-40, or assembly lube, screw the two half's together while watching your tape to see if it pushes back out on that end. Yer done. Remove the tape. Make the other end. Bolt it up. While pushing the first end into the female end you may have to use a box cutter blade to stuff any stray ends into the fitting as you push it in. Once it looks like the line is started into the fitting okay pull off the tape. Once you get into it , it will become obvious what needs to be done. But that's how i did it. Also I needed specific AN fittings for each end. The fuel pump end was a 6AN flare x 5/16" tube thread inverted flare. The upper end went into my fuel rail and was a 3/8" inverted tube thread flare x 6AN flare.
Gus chiggins
Well-Known Member
Fine, i won't take the chance.
Big Bad Dad
Well-Known Member
Go to Youtube and look up "Waylon Wire's Old Iron" channel. He just finished a series of videos on rebuilding his very nice 78 Chevy pickup after an underhood fire caused by the rubber fuel line rupturing and spraying fuel on the engine. The truck would have been considered totaled by an insurance company, but he loves it and fixed it.
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