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minitub? dehump? Can someone explain?

mopar4don

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I am getting close to putting the wheelhouse's back into my Charger and was wondering if I would want to tub or mini-tub (if there is a difference) or dehump the wheelhouse's?

If someone could explain why you would want to do this. And what the differences are?
Thank you
 
Depends on the size of tire will determine the tub amount, if you want a full pro stock look then that's tub, if you simple want to run wider tires say like a 315-325 rear tire then that just needs a mini tub which you basically open your rear wells to the frame, tub also means new rear frame closer together.
 
Dehump . . . here's my understanding . . .

When I looked at the shape of the wheel wells in my car, I wondered WHY would they make them the way that they did . . . but they did.

Here's a piece of metal that I cut out of the "hump" area - the outer wheel well above the wheel opening of the quarter panel.

sm_dehump.jpg

On the left, would be inside the wheel well, on the right is your quarter panel. What doesn't make sense is that the tire would clear at the bottom of the well, but as it moved higher inside, the metal bends inward ( "the hump" ) and the tire would hit it. I cut most of this outer wheel well out of my car and replaced it with a flatter piece of steel so that if the tire cleared at the bottom, it would also clear at the top.

Hope that makes a little more sense on the de-humping of the wheel wells - it gains spacing on the outboard side of the tire in the well.

I've got a bunch of pictures in my build thread that shows me cutting and moving the inner wheel well against the frame rail to add additional space for the nice big fat tires on the inboard side of the tire.

sm_humpdrawing.jpg

Added some lines on the picture to try and better show you the details . . . hope this helps . . .
 
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Yeap, just as Kahn explained. If your going to run the tire tight to the outer lip you'll be limited to travel before the tire hits the hump. On the Chargers 295's (around 11"-11 1/2" wide) are about as wide as you'll fit comfortably without tubbing it so it all depends on how wide you want to go. 305's will fit but my 285s will rub if you get it really crooked so you better be on all flat roads to go that wide without tubbing.

- - - Updated - - -

If you need I have before and after pics of the dehumping along with Daytona Kid and others.
 
When I looked at the shape of the wheel wells in my car, I wondered WHY would they make them the way that they did . . . but they did.

Here's a piece of metal that I cut out of the "hump" area - the outer wheel well above the wheel opening of the quarter panel.

View attachment 204921

On the left, would be inside the wheel well, on the right is your quarter panel. What doesn't make sense is that the tire would clear at the bottom of the well, but as it moved higher inside, the metal bends inward ( "the hump" ) and the tire would hit it. I cut most of this outer wheel well out of my car and replaced it with a flatter piece of steel so that if the tire cleared at the bottom, it would also clear at the top.

Hope that makes a little more sense on the de-humping of the wheel wells - it gains spacing on the outboard side of the tire in the well.

I've got a bunch of pictures in my build thread that shows me cutting and moving the inner wheel well against the frame rail to add additional space for the nice big fat tires on the inboard side of the tire.

View attachment 204922

Added some lines on the picture to try and better show you the details . . . hope this helps . . .

Thanks Kahn, The pictures defiantly help! thank-you.
Just Great, now I have something else to think about!:BangHead:
Oh well, better to think about it and get this right now before I get it done, and wish I had thought about it then!

Yeap, just as Kahn explained. If your going to run the tire tight to the outer lip you'll be limited to travel before the tire hits the hump. On the Chargers 295's (around 11"-11 1/2" wide) are about as wide as you'll fit comfortably without tubbing it so it all depends on how wide you want to go. 305's will fit but my 285s will rub if you get it really crooked so you better be on all flat roads to go that wide without tubbing.

- - - Updated - - -

If you need I have before and after pics of the dehumping along with Daytona Kid and others.
Thanks 747, before and after pics would be great! If they are in your thread I'll find them.
I guess I'll have to do some research on what size tires I want..... Thanks again!

Hey here's an idea, have a computer program, that shows a section view (rear view) of a tire inside a wheel well. You pick the tire size, and car, (Charger, Belvidere, Road Runner....) And the shapes would change based on what you select. Then you would have a better idea of tire to wheel well interference.
Hmmmmmmmm know any good computer programmers?? (hint hint Kahn):toothy9:
 
Here's a before and after pic for you (not fully welded in the pic yet), keep in mind all the media blasting and priming took place afterward. You can see the extra room gained.

SCAN0010.jpg

SCAN0009.jpg
 
Wow . . . that looks a whole lot easier then what I did, my quarters were still in place and I welded the patches from inside the wheel wells . . .

( hope you're not claustrophobic )

Sure is easier to see "what" needs to be done with your pics 747 ! ! !
 
My 69 belvedere is mini tubbed and I can easily fit my 12.5" wide street slicks. I think I could go 14" but would need to unbolt my coil overs to get them on and off.
 
Great pics 747! Thankyou!
Did you mock up the dehump with the quarter panel to be sure there was no interference?

You know I can't remember if I did or not. There's about a 1/2" clearance at the top corner though.
 
Check out Daytona Kids post "500$ charger" he's done this. Members Restorations link.
 
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