Mopar 440 fuel system issues/recommendations?

[spcedwards214]

So I got a 140GPH electric fuel pump with regulator etc. Ran all my lines gravity feed the pump under the fuel cell to push fuel forward and when I tested it, it seemed to work fine. After multiple times of attempting to start I finally get her started and I don't here the fuel pump working anymore. I think it's shot. I'm going to do some more testing but I want to know what everyone recommends as far as a returnless style fuel system goes. I was thinking of a holley blue 110 gph with regulator same setup I got but I'm worried about burning up the pump if it constantly pushing fuel and the regulator is the only thing holding back the excess fuel. I'm fairly new to starting from scratch but mechanically inclined. I have a 440 10:1 compression edelbrock total power package and holley 870 cfm carb. Any advice?

 

[Dennis H]

Similar car. Ran an Edellbrock Street Electric Fuel Pump. 150 GPH if I recall. Lasted years, then failed. Replaced it on the road. Lasted 300 miles then failed - on the road. Panicked, then bought a 50 GPH over the counter at Napa. It works with no noticable difference of performance ON THE STREET. Over 2000 miles on it. Wife says what's that sound? I tell her only worry if you do not hear that sound.
This is my friend Darius installing the replacement pump at Saltan Sea.

 

[dpstark2]

First, make sure you didn't just burn up a wire or have ground come loose. Second, if you aren't going to run a return line, make sure the pump and regulator you use are compatible with a dead-head system. Not all pumps are. Some modern gerotor type pumps (Walbro) can be pretty unhappy with that system. They can also work forever... it depends on the specific pump.

Do some research, but I would tend toward the inline, frame-mounted version of the Walbro pumps like this one: http://www.fuel-pumps.net/500.html. I have an in-tank version and it supplies more than enough fuel. I have a friend running a couple cars with these on frame rails. However, I'd make sure it's OK to run that pump dead-head before you buy it.

 

[66Satellite47]

You should check the obvious, loose wire, bad electrical connection, bad ground, blown fuse, etc. The literature appears to point towards using a return type system with the high output, high pressure pumps. However I have a Mallory 140 pump & 2 port regulator(no return) on my car now. I had this setup from my old race car years ago. Only about 75 street miles + 1 day at the track. Hope it holds up. My car has 500" motor & 4.10 gear, so it seems to move quite a bit of fuel through it. Hopefully won't overheat the pump from being deadheaded too much.

 

[65hemi]

I originally had a deadhead system with a Holley 150 and the pump seemed to stop working when it got hot. Would run again when it cooled. Was a pita.
May sound funny, but is the gas tank vented? If not vented, the pump will have to work quite hard and overheat. After running for while, remove the gas cap and listen if there is a big pressure change in the tank.

I have since switched to Aeromotive pieces with a return line, per their recommendations.

 

[spcedwards214]

All electrical is fine, gas tank is vented and the fuel pump is leaking red oil out the bottom like it's toast. I called the manu. they said if there is something clogged the regulator it'll cause a pump failure but everything is brand new and I took my time installing it. I bet the regulator is garbage. It's just a KMJ performance pos. So I'm going to look for a holley pump and regulator kit or something similar. I understand a deadhead system can be a pain but then again so is running all the extra mess for a return style system. Any considerations for good returnless style fuel setups?

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Why would you even want a deadhead system? Not on my charger, but on my other big block brand-x car, I'm running a carter electric pump with a regulator and return, works great. The Charger is a whole ther story since it's going efi but will still have an Aeromotive phantom 340, with return regulator. Like stark said, make sure your pump is compatible for going deadhead. But really it's not that much more work to run a return and know that you'll have steady fuel pressure without blowing past the needle and seat, no pressure building up and fighting against the pump, etc. To me, return style always seemed like the smartest way to go ?

 

[Shorthorse]

A return type system is always a good idea, especially for the street. Some electric fuel pumps have an internal bypass which would be recommended for a deadhead system.
The sad truth is that a lot of electric fuel pumps are really designed for racing and short term use. The key is to look for a pump that mentions "continuous duty".

 

[Sharp929]

Also remember that if you do run a return style regulator, that the return is the same size as the pressure side.