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most logical OEM disc brake conversion for a 67

Yes the 1970 discs work fine as 1 wild Rt says.

I used a manual disc master from a 1973 Charger With no booster. Works great, I never measured the bore size.
 
Yes the 1970 discs work fine as 1 wild Rt says.

I used a manual disc master from a 1973 Charger. Works great, I never measured the bore size.

with no booster?

edit: you did say manual, thanks
 
I used parts from a '77 Aspen. 10.9 rotors, Calipers to the rear, proportioning valve from same car. (Located valve in same area as the original dist block) 15/16ths master cyl. , brake hoses from an '80 Gran Fury. Perfect fit.. Car stops great even in a panic, doesn't slide the tires but almost. (This is manual brakes) :thumbsup:
 
Master bore sizes, sorry hard to read.
dd3.JPG
dd3.JPG
 
Here is my set-up on my 1964 Polara. I got the parts off a 1970 RoadRunner.

PA280018.JPG
 
thank you to all the above........ this place is so much more than just entertainment!
 
wait....... wut? :eek:
Like I've stated before, you'd think what worked on one conversion will work on another.... But that's not always the case... Back in the 70's &80's I added discs to many cars & never had an issue.... These days that doesn't seem to be the case for lots of guys.... I don't know if it's parts issues, if proportioning valves are gummed up & not wanting to play nice... I know some of the repo valves flat out don't work, the spool binds in it's bore...
Parts catalogs have been rewritten with tons of substitute part numbers who knows if they want to sell you a 1 1/8 M/C when OE was 1"....be 100% sure to avoid the CPP brand chinesium brake boosters...
Which is why I'm still skeptical of the booster Greg bought... His works which is great but some of the CPP boosters work too... Just enough that people hear good things & don't want to hear otherwise but I personally have changed out eight of them & I haven't worked professionally as an auto mechanic in over twenty years... My buddy who owns a hotrod shop after having over twenty fail refuses to install them even if the customer insists...

Lots of junk out there... Money to be made & companies with zero integrity... Which is why I love the fact your re-using good old parts.... But there are still landmines...
 
I have my original booster and prop valve for my 68, I assume I'll be having the booster rebuilt and clean up the valve (for my car, not the 67)......I'll trust that over chinesium
 
I have my original booster and prop valve for my 68, I assume I'll be having the booster rebuilt and clean up the valve (for my car, not the 67)......I'll trust that over chinesium
Drum Booster or Disc Booster? Cause the Disc booster puts out about 50% more boost,
 
Drum Booster or Disc Booster? Cause the Disc booster puts out about 50% more boost,

my 68 is disc brakes........ and I picked up new hub/rotors and rebuild 4 piston calipers over 15 years ago....... sold my cores on ebay, kinda regretting that
 
so........ what would be a fair "friend to friend" price for the E body spindles, hubs, caliper cores , ect.?
 
so........ what would be a fair "friend to friend" price for the E body spindles, hubs, caliper cores , ect.?
Depending on condition IMO around $300... Hubs? Or rotors? Cause new OE style two piece rotors are $$$ if you can even find them... New unicast rotors are $60 ea which is what I would do...
 
Depending on condition IMO around $300... Hubs? Or rotors? Cause OE rotors are $$$ New unicast rotors are $60 ea which is what I would do...


awesome...... I was thinking 200-250 ......... I'll have to measure the rotors, I bet they are still good
 
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