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most logical OEM disc brake conversion for a 67

eldubb440

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GTX....... with big drums, I assume

I know the 4 piston dudes like on my 68 would be easiest, is 70 stuff an easy swap? and more readily available? I know enough to be dangerous, just never got this close to this particular situation
 
You wouldn't want the original type 4 piston brakes. Big bucks,not up on what available now.
 
I had 11 inch drums all the way around on my 68 roadrunner drag car and can't imagine disc brakes been any better than those things were unless you are in the Hill country and using them constantly.... in fact I had another drag car that had Wildwood four wheel disc brakes and they sucked and that car was nearly 400 lb lighter than the roadrunner was.
 
I put 72 Charger discs on my 66 back in the early 80s. Just checked ball joint sizing to confirm the swap. I also put 11" drums on the rear. Still do the job 40 years later.
Mike
 
I have access to 70 E body stuff, ........ none of it is here, the 67 stuff isn't here either.......which is why I'm asking you guys :thankyou:
 
The E body stuff will work... 73-76 A body spindles use bigger bearings & the rotors are cheaper..

FMJ stuff is 5/8" taller but fits & actually the extra height improves handling...
 
now I remember..........

I was helping someone put their front together on a 70 Bee, and discovered he had 68/69 lower control arms; and the steering knuckle hit the sway bar tabs?

am I remembering correctly?
 
now I remember..........

I was helping someone put their front together on a 70 Bee, and discovered he had 68/69 lower control arms; and the steering knuckle hit the sway bar tabs?

am I remembering correctly?
Yes, but the solution is to rear mount the calipers
 
it's that simple? I can't picture it
Flip the spindles side to side... Lower ball joint stays where it is... Spindles, calipers & brackets move left to right... Done... Need to pay attention to the flex hose. Originally it crosses the steering axis which cancels turning as a concern for hose length... Just check it.. To short the hose will get torn apart... To long & it can get kinked...
 
Next question... Booster? Discs need a lot of pressure so at the very least small bore M/C
 
easier and cheaper than I thought..... thank you
Drill the spot welds on the flex hose mounting brackets that are on the frame rails behind the upper control arms and move them ahead of the upper control arms. Weld through the drilled holes to the front frame rail, and you're done. Spindles are reversible side to side with no affect on steering geometry. This is exactly the set up I have used on my 1964 Dodge Polara. I used a prop valve from a Fifth Ave. I did this conversion about 35 years ago on my car, before magazine articles about it. I also did FMJ disc brake conversion on a friends '67 Belvedere. Parts are still easy to find and cheap for this set up.
 
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Drill the spot welds on the flex hose mounting brackets that are on the frame rails behind the upper control arms and move them ahead of the upper control arms. Weld through the drilled holes to the front frame rail, and you're done. Spindles are reversible side to side with no affect on steering geometry. This is exactly the set up I have used on my 1964 Dodge Polara.


eezy peezy
 
someone knows the combo, you dont? :poke:
As has been shown many times... It should be an easy math question yet sometimes what works on one car doesn't work well the next time...

My choice would be a Bendix Dual Diaphragm Booster & a 1" bore M/C... This style booster


I have no experience with this style Chinese booster & while skeptical Kern bought one & it's part of what got his brakes working right finally...
 
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Drill the spot welds on the flex hose mounting brackets that are on the frame rails behind the upper control arms and move them ahead of the upper control arms. Weld through the drilled holes to the front frame rail, and you're done. Spindles are reversible side to side with no affect on steering geometry. This is exactly the set up I have used on my 1964 Dodge Polara.
Best solution and one that Eldubb440 can easily accomplish...
 
sounds like a line kit and a proportioning valve for a 70 would be in order?
 
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