Motor plates

[66Satellite47]

Just a thought, in my tube Arrow having the mid plate sure made trans/converter work a lot easier. FYI the trans needs to be in the location you want to end up with, angle relative to rear axle etc. Do the full mock up.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

Just a thought, in my tube Arrow having the mid plate sure made trans/converter work a lot easier. FYI the trans needs to be in the location you want to end up with, angle relative to rear axle etc. Do the full mock up.

Exactly,

 

[69clone]

Thanks for the input. my thinking is to install the engine with motor mounts first then add the plate to get it in stock location?

 

[Cranky]

Thanks for the input. my thinking is to install the engine with motor mounts first then add the plate to get it in stock location?

It doesn't hurt to move the engine/trans a bit if you need to make room for something like a tight header on one side etc. That's what a mock up is for. It lets you check things before you bolt them all down for final assembly. If you need say 1/4" on the driver side because a tube is touching the steering box or something, now is the time to find out. Moving the engine a tiny bit and keeping the trans mount in the same place isn't going to make much difference if any on your u-joints either. If you do need to move it a bit from it's stock location, just make sure everything else you are using will be ok too.

 

[69clone]

It doesn't hurt to move the engine/trans a bit if you need to make room for something like a tight header on one side etc. That's what a mock up is for. It lets you check things before you bolt them all down for final assembly. If you need say 1/4" on the driver side because a tube is touching the steering box or something, now is the time to find out. Moving the engine a tiny bit and keeping the trans mount in the same place isn't going to make much difference if any on your u-joints either. If you do need to move it a bit from it's stock location, just make sure everything else you are using will be ok too.

Thanks cranky. I think the problem is my motor plate is offset 1.25" so it fits in the stock location I may have a hair on either side of the plate to slide it left or right. We got my motor in just alittle bit ago. What a pita. It will definitely be 10x easier having a plate as I won't have to shimmy it in at an angle to pop the converter into the crank.
So after installing the plate (stock motor mounts are currently on). The plate doesn't rest on the frame like I thought it would? It rest about 3/4" above the frame. Do I want to lower it so it is resting on the frame or is that a bad idea? I suppose it gives me alittle more hood clearance which isn't really a problem with the lift off hood.

 

[65 3 times]

I think it looks good. I would not lower engine as it will change tail shaft height out back. You can use 2" X 2"angle for brackets. Cut then to frame width and weld them behind motor plate. Next time you remove or install engine it will go forward easier. Then drill two 3/8th holes and bolt with graded hardware. Remember the left side will try to climb and this side will push down. Get a good weld on the brackets then drill holes so they line up. It's going great. Good luck. Dave

 

[69clone]

Thanks Dave. Sorry for bugging everyone with a million questions but I'm glad I ask because I was going to sit it down on the frame. It didn't cross my mind that it would change the tail shaft height. Now I'll have to check it out alittle more. Need someone who knows what their doing over here lol.. Again thank you to everyone for your input.
Oh and I do have brackets I bought with the plate. I just need to get some grade 8 bolts.

 

[66Satellite47]

Be sure you check the driveshaft angle relative to the trans output shaft. I don't recall the exact limits, but that is critical.

 

[6PKRTSE]

I made my own & then anodized it black to go along with my stock appearing theme. I made it a little taller than most are on the outer edges so I had enough extra material to mount my vac pump & coil to it.

 

[Budnicks]

If you lower the front of the engine {move it side to side too}
you need to either shim {check} the rear axle housing or change the pinion angle
adjust ladder bars 4 link w-t-f-e suspension you have to within proper specs,
so the trans & diff are somewhat in parallel angles,
with the pinion going slightly down, it's not really a big deal,
just do your due diligence research...

good luck

 

[Cranky]

Thanks cranky. I think the problem is my motor plate is offset 1.25" so it fits in the stock location I may have a hair on either side of the plate to slide it left or right. We got my motor in just alittle bit ago. What a pita. It will definitely be 10x easier having a plate as I won't have to shimmy it in at an angle to pop the converter into the crank.
So after installing the plate (stock motor mounts are currently on). The plate doesn't rest on the frame like I thought it would? It rest about 3/4" above the frame. Do I want to lower it so it is resting on the frame or is that a bad idea? I suppose it gives me alittle more hood clearance which isn't really a problem with the lift off hood.

View attachment 339579

A buddy of mine used some reinforced rubber pads under his plate where it rested on the frame but it wasn't 3/4" up. Are you using new mounts for the mock up? I have found that not all brands of mounts are the same thickness but not 3/4" difference. Someone may have cut your plate a bit short. IF the trans mount was half way in the middle of the engine/trans assembly, lowering the front of the engine 3/4" would raise the end of the trans the same amount. You could take a measurement of the centerline of the tail shaft where it is now and then drop the motor down and see where it puts the CL of the TS. Don't know what your drive line angles were before but it must might improve them. You need some. Perfectly straight will generally rob less power but you will usually end up with vibration problems too plus if things are too straight, you will kill your u-joints faster. Brinelling of the u-joints can be caused by too much angle and also by not having enough.

 

[Hemirunner]

I made my own & then anodized it black to go along with my stock appearing theme. I made it a little taller than most are on the outer edges so I had enough extra material to mount my vac pump & coil to it.

View attachment 340132

Those nitrous lines and regs look stock to me! Would love hear details on that combo. I run a nitrous hemi as well.

 

[mmissile]

The water-pump housing looks fairly stock.

 

[dvw]

It makes no difference if the plate sets on the rails. The clamp load of the bolts is what holds the plate to the chassis. Make sure the chassis brackets are behind the plate or it'll make it tough to install the engine. If done correctly you can bolt everything together and stick in the hole. Mine goes in as pictured with everything attached. No matter what angle the engine/trans sets at it, the pinion angle can be adjusted. On a 9 second or slower door car the primary thing to do is make sure everything fits, headers, pan, etc. I raised my motor 1/2" at the plate for header clearance. Now the the engine tilts down in the rear. I was still able to dial in the exact pinion angle I wanted. Just remember to start with the pinion shaft and engine crank/trans output parallel to each other, then dial in the desired pinion angle. It doesn't matter if the engine C/L is higher or lower than the axle.
Doug