Moving bolts on seat tracks, 70 Charger?

Interior

  1. Triplegreen500

    Triplegreen500 Well-Known Member

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    I put the interior back in my Charger this weekend because I wanted to drive it while I wait for AMD to make the floorpan that I need...and I was curious about something.

    I'm 6'4", so I don't "fit" in a lot of cars. My reach to the pedals is OK, but the steering wheel is awfully close. I noticed, at least on the passenger seat (I already had the driver seat installed at this point, it may or may not be the same), that there are three holes in the mounting tracks, for each of the four mounting studs that go through the floor. I was trying to get one out anyway because the threads are stripped, and it wouldn't budge. Is there a trick to removing these things? If the driver seat has the option, I'd love to set it "back" a little so I had some more room. The passenger seat was in the middle hole, I would assume (and we all know what happens....) the driver seat is the same, if it also has the 3-hole option.

    Any tips on getting these things out of the tracks? Are they somehow flared, once installed? I can wiggle the one I was trying to remove, from side to side...but even with my 24oz framing hammer, it would NOT come out. Do I need to make a rig so I can use my hydraulic press to get them out? Heat?

    These are the carriage-bolt type bolts that hold the seats to the floor, that fit into a square hole in the seat track/base.

    Thanks! :)
     
  2. PurpleBeeper

    PurpleBeeper Well-Known Member

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    I "think" there might be a tack weld on those bolts.
     
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    • Don Frelier

      Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      At least on the 66's that I have they are more like studs.
      It makes it easier to install the seat.
      But I think you could modify them and maybe tack them back on.
       
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      • Triplegreen500

        Triplegreen500 Well-Known Member

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        Yeah, these wiggle in the hole so they aren't tacked. Round stud, about 1.5" long, with a square shoulder at the track, mates with the square hole in the track. The only thing I can think is, they were pressed in, and slightly flared once installed to keep from falling out.
         
      • Fran Blacker

        Fran Blacker FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        My 66 they swedge corners, like front brake drum studs.
         
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        • Triplegreen500

          Triplegreen500 Well-Known Member

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          Grinder it is! I'll see what it takes to get that stripped one out, and see if it's worth the effort to move the others around...
           
        • Fran Blacker

          Fran Blacker FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          My enormous stomach made me move seat back. Took a 1/4" x 1"x 18" mounted seat on them. Used 4 counter sunk bolts up from bottom to mount seats to steel strips with 5" of the steel strips out front. Drilled 4 holes mounting seat to floor. Holes in the steel strips for floor mounting need to be 4" forward of the holes for mounting strips to seat. you'll need to drill a hole in seat mounting bracket 4" forward or rear seat mounting hole. I don't like my bent to much while driving. Like my leg only slightly bent when I brake hard.
           
        • rikkitik

          rikkitik Member

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          Yup, you have it right. You need to grind around the stud where it passes through the frame. Watch for the edges of the square hole in the frame appear as you work your way through. I never came to a conclusion whether they had a pressed-on "keeper", or were swaged on. Not that I really cared, the material has to be removed either way.
          If you get 2-3 sides of the square base hole showing, you should be able to smack the stud side to side, and knock it loose.
          I used Year One relocation brackets (I have an E-body) which requires the studs to be removed as well.
          I also went to a flatter, aftermarket steering wheel, to get the "reach" more correct as well.
          Good luck with it.
           
        • dsd1967

          dsd1967 Well-Known Member

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          Usually a sharp rap with a hammer will break the swage and pop the studs out of the square hole. I've used carriage bolts to mimic the seat bolts and made a swage tool to stake them in place.
           
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          • F4R/T

            F4R/T Well-Known Member

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            Would these help?

            221B7941-414D-457B-B0F2-F461218DCBE3.png
             
          • dsd1967

            dsd1967 Well-Known Member

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            BTW.....are you needing a full floor pan or a half pan? There is a speed shop in Toledo, Ohio that has a set of AMD right and left floor pans with bucket seat brackets. I believe he would ship these and usually he comes in at approximately 50% of what AMD retail is if he has stuff on the shelf. If interested PM me and I can get you his contact information.
             
          • 69bfan

            69bfan FBBO Vendor FBBO Sponsor

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            We reproduce both styles of the seat studs. You can use the push on flat retaining washers to hold them tight to the seat frame, but they do fit tight to the frame. Once you pull the seat down tight with the nut, they will not go anywhere.

            SeatStudA_2A.jpg
             
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            • Fran Blacker

              Fran Blacker FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              The counter bolts coming from bottom the seats are bolted to seat frame. The hex head bolts hold the strip the seat and frame are attached to. The hex head bolts go through existing holes in floor. This is a 4" seat set back. seat.jpg seat1.jpg seat2.jpg seat3.jpg
               
            • JimKueneman

              JimKueneman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              I want 4 of those! The wife’s Dart bench is to damn close to the wheel. It has a second set of holes about an inch forward that I can use to push it back!
               
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