My “more project than restoration” 66 Charger

Nxcoupe

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I had the Raybestos 36221 on my 66 Plymouth with 10" power drums and it worked well.
But you are correct I think manual brakes would be a different bore size, but he said he ordered a new booster so I knew he had power brakes.
I think front discs on a 66 are extremely rare and that master would have a larger reservoir section for the discs.
Ok, here they are. 67 GTX 440
Pwr Disc rear drum NMC22774
Pwr 4 wheel drum NMC11373
Manual 4 wheel Drum NMC11373M

Hope this helps someone out. I ordered the PWR Disc one for my Hemi Belvedere so I can mount my power brake booster on it.

Anyway, hope this helps the OP out, sorry to muck up your thread. Thanks for your service.
 

BamaCharger66

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Sorry, no pics. But I am chipping away at this brake fiasco. New front drum, new shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, lines, MS, etc. Hope to get it where I can drive it a bit and stop. Of course she's puked transmission fluid onto my carport floor just sitting there.... I'll ensure to post photos of the dumpster fire that is my carport this weekend. :BangHead:
 

BamaCharger66

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Additionally, I need help/guidance on how to remove and then install front hubs onto front new drums... :)
 

Don Frelier

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Sorry, no pics. But I am chipping away at this brake fiasco. New front drum, new shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, lines, MS, etc. Hope to get it where I can drive it a bit and stop. Of course she's puked transmission fluid onto my carport floor just sitting there.... I'll ensure to post photos of the dumpster fire that is my carport this weekend. :BangHead:
Likely the shift selector seal is leaking.
An easy fix out of the car, I've heard it can be done in the car but I never attempted it.
 

440 PHIXX

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I own a ‘70. But as a kid, the nurse at my junior high school had a gold ‘66 or ‘67. It had Cragars and a rake... man was that a mean looking car! :thumbsup:
 

BamaCharger66

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My rear drum assemblies are either missing the cable for the self adjustment OR they simply didn’t come with them?…. Trying to get these back together.
 

Don Frelier

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You can just adjust them manually until you can just get the drum on. Unless you drive it alot you can adjust them once a year.
 

BamaCharger66

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Anybody?! The new drums I received didn’t come with hubs. I’m guessing I can knock out the races and then the hub out the the old assembly?
 

ckessel

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Usually from the factory, the studs ares swaged over just below the threads on the remainder of the pilot portion of the stud. This is to hold the the drum to the hub. The swaged areas need to be cut back with a special cutter, if you can find someone with one, that just slides over the threaded portion of the stud. Push comes to shove you may be able to just push the stud out using a press. But make darn sure you have something that just clears the back of the stud, like a deep socket, so that the hub is supported other wise you may bend it making it useless. Don't hammer it out or back in with new studs.
 

Nxcoupe

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Anybody?! The new drums I received didn’t come with hubs. I’m guessing I can knock out the races and then the hub out the the old assembly?
Why knock out the races? Has nothing to do with the drums? The hub is held in by the studs. They are swedged on the edges of the studs. I've read some guys use a dremmel or other tool to get that swedged part removed to allow the drum to come off. You'll have to persuade it. Good luck and use the search function to find others who have removed the drums from the hubs.
 

Nxcoupe

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Usually from the factory, the studs ares swaged over just below the threads on the remainder of the pilot portion of the stud. This is to hold the the drum to the hub. The swaged areas need to be cut back with a special cutter, if you can find someone with one, that just slides over the threaded portion of the stud. Push comes to shove you may be able to just push the stud out using a press. But make darn sure you have something that just clears the back of the stud, like a deep socket, so that the hub is supported other wise you may bend it making it useless. Don't hammer it out or back in with new studs.
Damn, you treed me!
 

BamaCharger66

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Why knock out the races? Has nothing to do with the drums? The hub is held in by the studs. They are swedged on the edges of the studs. I've read some guys use a dremmel or other tool to get that swedged part removed to allow the drum to come off. You'll have to persuade it. Good luck and use the search function to find others who have removed the drums from the hubs.
That makes sense. Thx so much!
 

BamaCharger66

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Geez. Still struggling here. My hubs are garbage. Have chips on the outer portion of the cone area. So, looking for good used ones are new. Rockauto is a no go. I don’t think Dorman makes them for my application…? Any ideas? Part number? Vendor? Thx!
 

Don Frelier

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Put a a WTB add here note your location for hubs.
You might find someone close that has done a disc upgrade.

Otherwise I would consider getting the SBC or Leeds brakes disc conversion.
 

Nxcoupe

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Geez. Still struggling here. My hubs are garbage. Have chips on the outer portion of the cone area. So, looking for good used ones are new. Rockauto is a no go. I don’t think Dorman makes them for my application…? Any ideas? Part number? Vendor? Thx!
I was informed that no one makes new 11x3 drums and hubs. Use what you have. You have to release the drum from the wheel studs. Don't beat on it.
 

BamaCharger66

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I was informed that no one makes new 11x3 drums and hubs. Use what you have. You have to release the drum from the wheel studs. Don't beat on it.
These are 10 inch. Regardless, my hubs are shot. I just ran across this. Thoughts? Will this work with my application?

25E8C609-A6BE-46B6-8B5C-CE63AFA17E87.png
 

Don Frelier

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Yes those would work.
Don't know how they can ship them for $22
 

Don Frelier

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My 66 charger had 10 inch drums. I would be very surprised if yours weren't.
 
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