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Got the exhaust system installed today. I also made quite a bit of progress on the top side. Basically I just have to replace the rear u-joint, fill the transmission with fluid, and finish hooking up the wiring. The end is in sight.
Based upon my experience with the Holley on the 361, I decided to rejet the carb before I put it back on. I dropped the primaries from 68 to 66 and upped the power valve from a 6.5 to an 8.5. Hopefully the 400 likes it.
Zero steps forward and two steps back today. I went out to the garage this morning and found this. It appears that the leak is coming from the bottom tank of the rad. It is not much so I think I am going to try some stop leak to get me through next weekend. I also tried to install the rear u-joint today and f...ed it up. I have a spare so I am going to take it to the machine shop tomorrow. Hopefully a step or two forward once I get that back.
There might be hope Don, at least temporarily. I put a bucket under it last night and there were only a few drips. I checked the tank level and it was down only about 1/4 inch since I filled it. I will try the irontite and see if it gets me through the weekend. The rad looks good otherwise, so I may see if I can get it repaired.
I got the driveshaft back in last night. I'm not sure if I found my radiator problem. When searching for the leak I noticed that a portion of the rad shroud was shifted and contacting the core. I will pull the shroud back tonight and see if I can spot any damage. Things are extremely tight with the power steering and A/C.
If I do find that I have nicked a tube installing the shroud, can anyone recommend a temporary repair to get me through the weekend? I was looking at some JB Weld high temp epoxy that seems like it might work.
Trying to do a temporary fix for the weekend Dave, so hoping not to pull the rad. I am not even sure that the plastic shroud could have damaged the core?
I believe I found the problem with the rad, obviously user error when I was wrestling the fan into place. I am going to find something tomorrow to patch it temporarily and add some leak stop. After this weekend show I will pull it out and have it repaired or recored.
I made the repair to the rad, fingers crossed. I also finished adjusting the kickdown linkage. Mine was originally a two barrel linkage so it was a little short. I made an extender similar to what Edelbrock sells, and everything seems to work well. I also added a second throttle return spring inside the main spring for safety.
I finished the wiring, and ended up having to replace the connections to the coil . I tried to turn it over but the battery was low after sitting all winter. The bad news, the repair is dry but something is still leaking on the rad. When I get it started I will add some stop leak and hope.
Another setback tonight. I am not getting any spark, and I wore the battery down trying to test it. I am charging it overnight and will try again, but I am going to order a new battery.
IT'S ALIVE! To make a very long story short I bought a new battery and found a bad connection and it fired right up. I topped up all the fluids, adjusted the torsion bars back up and did a nut and bolt check underneath. One of my brand new exhaust hangers broke, so I had to wire that up. The good news is I ran it up to temperature and there were no rad leaks. Tomorrow morning my neighbour is coming over to help me put the hood back on and it will take it's maiden voyage to the car cruise. I honestly didn't think I was going to make it.
When we were hooking the engine up to the dyno he didn't have an adapter to plug my distributor to his MSD box, so we cut the feed wires on the harness and added spade connectors. I had wrapped both of them with tape, but one worked loose. I repaired those and as soon as I touched the remote starter button to check it, the engine fired right away.