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Mystery Mopar engine?

wags70ss

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Hey guys I picked up a 440 engine with a 727 transmission yesterday. I was looking it over today, trying to find out what it is. But all of the typical places where there should be stampings are all blank. Can you guys help me figure out what it is for sure, and why all the stampings are missing? Here a link to my YouTube video :



Thanks in advance for all the advice!
 
Hey guys I picked up a 440 engine with a 727 transmission yesterday. I was looking it over today, trying to find out what it is. But all of the typical places where there should be stampings are all blank. Can you guys help me figure out what it is for sure, and why all the stampings are missing? Here a link to my YouTube video :



Thanks in advance for all the advice!

If you look at my YouTube channel Wags Automotive, I have several videos on things I found while looking it over. If you have time, please watch them and give me some advice. Thanks again!
 
I didnt watch the video.... look for a rivet holding (or used to be holding) an aluminum tag on the side of the block. If it's there, maybe a warrantee block.
 
Its a 68 transmission and Motor block is 72. All components sort of lead to a 68 model year car. Block was used 66-72. Oil senders one for the gauge and one for the light. You might have 500 bucks worth of parts on a good day. With it siezed one will never know the internal condition.
 
What numbers are inside the heads? Under the valve covers there are embossed numbers. Could be a warranty short block with original heads and accessories installed onto the warranty block. The heads may have older casting numbers if this is the case. But if you find the numbers to be 346 I would suspect it to be a warranty long block.

Take a valve cover off and look for a casting number on the head.. You may find out that its just a 1972 long block with all of the 67-68-69 parts on it. Warranty engine.

Casting#
Part#
EngineChamberIn Ex
1737637
1944705​
2128533​
58-59 361Closed1.94
1.60​
1737637
2448752​
60 361/383Closed1.941.60
2206324
2206924
212858961-62 361/383/413Closed2.081.60
2402286240235862 413 Max WedgeClosed2.081.88
2463209240675463 426 Max WedgeClosed2.081.88
2463200244875263 361/383/413Closed2.081.60
2406518240673664 426 Max WedgeClosed2.081.88
2406516240673264-67 361/383Closed2.081.60
2406158280601967 440Closed2.081.60
2780915280076267 440 HPClosed2.081.74
2843906284390468-70 383/440Open2.081.74
2951250284390468 440Open2.081.74
3462346346234471-72 383/400/440Open2.081.74
3462346367164073 400/440Open2.081.74
3751213​
375121873 400/440
Motor Home
Open2.081.74
3769902​
3769910​
74 400/440Open2.081.74
3769975​
3769954​
75 400/440Open2.081.74
4006452​
3769954​
76-78 400/440Open2.081.74
 
Last edited:
The engine block was replaced. The trans is Jan 1968. This was in an Imperial due the dual oil pressure senders and that vacuum tank on the back of the intake. Those spark plug heat shields were on every BB made and are common. The AC line brackets are 1965-1968. The trans linkage to the carb is good setup.

The block VIN number would be on the pass side front where your tire is, and its bare there.

mice made nests in the cylinders which is very bad. Pee and water so the pistons get stuck to the cylinders. Heads need to come off and see what’s in the cylinders, clan it up, soak with ATF and acetone if not too bad. But the whole thing needs taken apart and cleaned up. Crank is probably good. Don’t burn the crud in the cylinders, no benefit, more cleanup later. Valve springs are not good from the rust.

So the car had 27K on the odometer. And block is January 1972. So is that 127K miles on the car and it needed a worn out engine replaced?
 
Last edited:
I didnt watch the video.... look for a rivet holding (or used to be holding) an aluminum tag on the side of the block. If it's there, maybe a warrantee block.
I didn't see a rivet anywhere on the block, or an aluminum tag.
 
Its a 68 transmission and Motor block is 72. All components sort of lead to a 68 model year car. Block was used 66-72. Oil senders one for the gauge and one for the light. You might have 500 bucks worth of parts on a good day. With it siezed one will never know the internal condition.
Heads are casting number 2843906-7. The casting date is 12-22-67. Intake and exhaust manifolds are late December casting dates. So the top end of engine is 68, and the block is 72.

What parts are worth $500?

It is locked up, but I've looked in the cylinders with a bore scope and they look pretty decent. I think I can get it to break loose.
 
What numbers are inside the heads? Under the valve covers there are embossed numbers. Could be a warranty short block with original heads and accessories installed onto the warranty block. The heads may have older casting numbers if this is the case. But if you find the numbers to be 346 I would suspect it to be a warranty long block.

Take a valve cover off and look for a casting number on the head.. You may find out that its just a 1972 long block with all of the 67-68-69 parts on it. Warranty engine.

Casting#
Part#
EngineChamberIn Ex
1737637
1944705​
2128533​
58-59 361Closed1.94
1.60​
1737637
2448752​
60 361/383Closed1.941.60
2206324
2206924
212858961-62 361/383/413Closed2.081.60
2402286240235862 413 Max WedgeClosed2.081.88
2463209240675463 426 Max WedgeClosed2.081.88
2463200244875263 361/383/413Closed2.081.60
2406518240673664 426 Max WedgeClosed2.081.88
2406516240673264-67 361/383Closed2.081.60
2406158280601967 440Closed2.081.60
2780915280076267 440 HPClosed2.081.74
2843906284390468-70 383/440Open2.081.74
2951250284390468 440Open2.081.74
3462346346234471-72 383/400/440Open2.081.74
3462346367164073 400/440Open2.081.74
3751213​
375121873 400/440
Motor Home
Open2.081.74
3769902​
3769910​
74 400/440Open2.081.74
3769975​
3769954​
75 400/440Open2.081.74
4006452​
3769954​
76-78 400/440Open2.081.74
Please see my reply below. 68 top end.
 
The engine block was replaced. The trans is Jan 1968. This was in an Imperial due the dual oil pressure senders and that vacuum tank on the back of the intake. Those spark plug heat shields were on every BB made and are common. The AC line brackets are 1965-1968. The trans linkage to the carb is good setup.

The block VIN number would be on the pass side front where your tire is, and its bare there.

mice made nests in the cylinders which is very bad. Pee and water so the pistons get stuck to the cylinders. Heads need to come off and see what’s in the cylinders, clan it up, soak with ATF and acetone if not too bad. But the whole thing needs taken apart and cleaned up. Crank is probably good. Don’t burn the crud in the cylinders, no benefit, more cleanup later. Valve springs are not good from the rust.

So the car had 27K on the odometer. And block is January 1972. So is that 172K miles on the car and it needed a worn out engine replaced?
Good information! The top end is 68, so they block is either a warranty block, or a remanufactured short block.

Yes, there is no VIN number on the passenger side of the block.

I'm going to have to clean out the cylinders and soak them to try to get it broke loose. I've looked in the cylinders with a bore scope and they look fine, except for the 2 that had mouse nests in them.

Sorry, I already burned the crud in the cylinders. There's a video of it on my YouTube channel.

I was told by the seller that the car only had 27,000 miles on it when both quarters were smashed in, and it was parked. The rest of the car was in great condition and looked like a low mileage car, except for the fact that it had been sitting outside for 50 years. So I believe that the engine work was done shortly before the accident, which means that there's a possibility that the engine had very low miles on it at the time of the accident. I'll know when I pull it apart. But I've got to get it to turn over first so I can remove the pistons.
 
"What numbers are inside the heads? Under the valve covers there are embossed numbers. Could be a warranty short block with original heads and accessories installed onto the warranty block."

Original factory machining broach marks on the top pad no vin on pad......I'll go with warranty or replacement short block.
 
The mileage won't matter, what will matter is what size the cylinders will clean up at.
 
I bought a 75 440 brick RV engine with 43k on the RV but the engine sat outside for a long time. It needed to be bored due to the pitting in the cylinders. I paid 250 for mine with the RV 727.
 
Heads are casting number 2843906-7. The casting date is 12-22-67. Intake and exhaust manifolds are late December casting dates. So the top end of engine is 68, and the block is 72.

What parts are worth $500?

It is locked up, but I've looked in the cylinders with a bore scope and they look pretty decent. I think I can get it to break loose.
All of it you might get 500 bucks.
 
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