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That is a Small block or CW rotation plate. Won't work on Big Block CCW motor.
S#*t your right. I ass-u-med it was bb, bought a bb 2 weeks before.
Very easy to find out, if points arms are touching the screw heads. Use an ohm meter, to ground, + side to the points arm. When the points are open, should not be any contact. Those screws look a little rough, too...maybe clean 'em up some with a file, if you don't change them. Be sure to check both sets of points.
Thank you for pointing that out! I am thinking about point float at RPM. When I checked the tolerance on the play in the shaft, side to side was in tolerance (but at the extreme). But would this issue make the up and down slop come in to play? That could explain why the vacuum advance makes the ignition cut out, but if my distributor cam is within spec, any idea what explains why I have to set the gaps so small to get the thing to work?
Hard to really say without seeing it. First, up and down is set by the shim under the shaft, and the one at the collar outside distributor. You also can install the collar reversed which can either add too much slop or make it too tight when installed. The hole is not really centered, find this on Chrysler distributors too. So you have to pay attention when disassembling/reassembling. Sometimes the thrust washer can stick to the bearing of the distributor body and then fall off. So you may be missing one? As far as vacuum, how much does it put in? What number stamped on arm? You can move the plate at the link point with distributor out of car and observe how it moves. Also, that movement of the plate for vacuum is the reason for that ground wire loop. Early distributors could have the strands break from the constant motion and AL/Prestolite redesigned it. So you might be loosing ground when vacuum kicks in. Also if the bearing plate is loose that may be causing an unwanted shift.
Here is a pic of the Prestolite from my 340 A-Body. Works great... I'm missing the little pad that goes in the top of the shaft. I'm assuming that it is there to keep the dirt out?
Think yoi put oil on during tune ups.
You are correct as that lubes the mechanical advance.
Just musing here about point spring tension.... Wondering why I don’t think any current point sets possibly could have lower tension than years before. Kinda thinking QC might not be what it once was(?) @HALIFAXHOPS!
Cheaper manufacturing. The new stuff sucks.
Both dirt and lubrication. Also, the metal clamp on point set closest to the vacuum should go over the tension spring arm. Even Chrysler distributors have the felt pad, so you can get one pretty easily.
I see what you are saying about the clamp position. Thanks...
Most of the rubbing blocks on today's points all seem to be plastic. The older ones looked like the material was made of bakelite.
The new condensers from my experience have around a 50% fail rate when they get hot. All I use in rebuilds is nos or NORS. Starting to get hard to find now also you are paying for it.
The only half way decent stuff now is accel or blue streak. Once again if you can find it.
Not actually,all the original Prestolite were plastic including the Race Hemi with Platinum contacts..
Plastic is a pretty generic term. The specific type determines it use. Certain types of plastic are used in guide blocks for motor cycle chains. Not a problem as a rubbing block as long as it is high quality and type for the application. G
Just got some NOS autolite in they are also "plastic" Thinking the fiber ones are earlier in general.