Need some valve lashing help.

[jayfire]

I am trying to adjust my rockers on a 426 Hemi. It has hydraulic lifters. It was running fine until I decided to adjust them while I had the valve covers off. I have the picture of which valves to adjust after each 90 degree turn. Tried that and now runs like crap and won’t idle. I don’t have a balancer, but it has a crank hub (6-71 blower) I set it to TDC on compression and adjust intake 2, exhaust 8. Now my issue is the next 90 degree turn. I used the 37 tooth crank pulley and made a mark every ninth tooth. If I turn it clockwise every ninth tooth, should that give me the 90 degrees to adjust the next set of valves? I’m having a hard time with this. If I had a 7” balancer and calculated 90 degrees on that, wouldn’t it move it further than a 4” crank hub moving 90 degrees? Anyone have an easier way to do this that can dumb it down for me? Thanks

 

[65hemi]

I use the eoic method.
Per Comp Cams,
When the exhaust valve just begins to open on the number 1 cylinder, adjust the number 1 intake valve. Loosen the adjusting nut slightly until lash can be felt in the rocker arm. While spinning the pushrod with your fingers tighten the adjusting nut—when a slight resistance is felt the valve is at zero lash, or the point where all the slack is removed. Turn the adjusting nut an additional 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn past this point (depending on the cam manufacturer's specs) to achieve optimal preload on the lifter. Follow this procedure to adjust each intake valve according to the firing order.
To adjust the exhaust valves a similar procedure is used. Turn the engine over until the intake pushrod moves all the way up. Rotate just past maximum lift, where the intake will begin to close. The lifter is now at the base circle, and the exhaust valve can be adjusted. Do not go too far down (over halfway) past the point of maximum lift. If you go too far, you will be in the overlap cycle—where intake valve lash is being taken up as the exhaust valve begins to open. Then follow the same steps of spinning the pushrods and tightening the adjustment nuts.

 

[diesel_lv]

You state valve "lash". I am hoping you did not try to set valve lash as hydraulic lifters do not have a "lash", the have a preload. And if it was running fine before you pulled valve covers, you don't mess with them. They are not like solid lifters.

 

[AR67GTX]

Good luck. Setting preload on hydraulic lifters can be very tricky because they may bleed off on you while tryin to determine the point of zero preload - and the point seems to move on you. It takes a real fine touch.

 

[jayfire]

You state valve "lash". I am hoping you did not try to set valve lash as hydraulic lifters do not have a "lash", the have a preload. And if it was running fine before you pulled valve covers, you don't mess with them. They are not like solid lifters.

Yes, I meant the preload. It had a slight tick on both sides. I thought what better way to learn how to adjust them. I used to do Chevys with custom valve covers so I could adjust while running. Not so easy on a Hemi.

 

[jayfire]

I use the eoic method.
Per Comp Cams,
When the exhaust valve just begins to open on the number 1 cylinder, adjust the number 1 intake valve. Loosen the adjusting nut slightly until lash can be felt in the rocker arm. While spinning the pushrod with your fingers tighten the adjusting nut—when a slight resistance is felt the valve is at zero lash, or the point where all the slack is removed. Turn the adjusting nut an additional 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn past this point (depending on the cam manufacturer's specs) to achieve optimal preload on the lifter. Follow this procedure to adjust each intake valve according to the firing order.
To adjust the exhaust valves a similar procedure is used. Turn the engine over until the intake pushrod moves all the way up. Rotate just past maximum lift, where the intake will begin to close. The lifter is now at the base circle, and the exhaust valve can be adjusted. Do not go too far down (over halfway) past the point of maximum lift. If you go too far, you will be in the overlap cycle—where intake valve lash is being taken up as the exhaust valve begins to open. Then follow the same steps of spinning the pushrods and tightening the adjustment nuts.

I will give this a try. How do I turn it over slow enough to watch the valve move by myself? I feel my 2 year old will give me false info!!

 

[RemCharger]

A remote starter switch is your friend.

 

[65hemi]

I use a bump switch or remote starter.
Like this:

 

[AR67GTX]

If you pull the plugs it doesn’t take much effort to turn the engine by hand with a 1/2” drive ratchet on the balancer bolt.

 

[MoparLeo]

Disconnect the coil. pull the plugs and use the blower pulley to turn the engine. You may want to go ahead and use the positive stop method to find true TDC and mark the lower pulley. Than you can split it in 4 x 90° or whatever you need to get your proper order to adjust the valves.
Make sure the rocker/tip locks are working well so you don't have to do this often.