Need to clean a cast aluminum intake manifold.

[themechanic]

I searched but didn't find.

So far, I've degreased with Gunk original. It still has carbon inside the runners and oxidation on the top and bottom outer surfaces.

I'm thinking about using NAPA Aluminum Brightener. It works well on sill plates.

What's your method for degreasing and removing the oxidation?

Thanks in advance.

 

[dadsbee]

Best method I've found for aluminum. Glass dust and a blast. I did however clean up my alternator quite well using WD40 and a stainless brush.

 

[toolmanmike]

I searched but didn't find.

So far, I've degreased with Gunk original. It still has carbon inside the runners and oxidation on the top and bottom outer surfaces.

I'm thinking about using NAPA Aluminum Brightener. It works well on sill plates.

What's your method for degreasing and removing the oxidation?

Thanks in advance.

Subscribed. I have a LD4B that is fairly clean but it needs brightening up before I install it. I don't have a blast cabinet. I wonder if the local speed shop could run it through theirs? Hmmm. Might be worth a call. Anyone coat their aluminum to preserve the out of the box look?

 

[dadsbee]

Note I didn't use either of my cabinets doing the steering box Mike. A cardboard box, a spot blaster (40 bucks), faceshield and respirator.

 

[themechanic]

Blasting leaves a dull finish from what I have learned.

I had a local shop powder coat the new intake for the Cuda in Alien Silver . That's the color Phoenix Coatings uses (AKA Leanna, AKA Cuda Chick). But I'm just prepping this one for sale.

 

[themechanic]

Best method I've found for aluminum. Glass dust and a blast. I did however clean up my alternator quite well using WD40 and a stainless brush.
View attachment 1371246View attachment 1371247View attachment 1371249

Good tip on SS brush.

 

[dadsbee]

Blasted..

Cleared..

The Clear SATIN gives a better look, but I could only get Gloss the day I did this box.

 

[themechanic]

I don't own a big compressor or any blasting tools.

 

[dadsbee]

You don't need a big compressor to run a spot blaster. I bought that for less than 40 Canuck bucks during a 40% off sale at Canadian Tire. Harbour Fright or any junk took shop would have one.

 

[themechanic]

Also, I need tips on removing stuck steel plugs and pipe fittings.

 

[gkent]

You can use alumi-prep . Its just like metal-prep but obviously for aluminum. Might have to go to an auto body supply for that. Basically you want an acid for aluminum.

 

[gkent]

Just in case someone suggests it ... DO NOT use oven cleaner of aluminum

 

[69Bee]

Blasting leaves a dull finish from what I have learned.

I had a local shop powder coat the new intake for the Cuda in Alien Silver . That's the color Phoenix Coatings uses (AKA Leanna, AKA Cuda Chick). But I'm just prepping this one for sale.

Worn out glass bead will leave the surface matt/dull, and fresher bead will have a better finish. For the best look, some NEW beads in the hopper, and blast a little to get them to the gun before finishing will leave a shiny silver/aluminum finish.

 

[HawkRod]

Also, I need tips on removing stuck steel plugs and pipe fittings.

So I can hear my father-in-law saying loudly "YOU HAVE TO GET ITS ATTENTION!!!"

It may seem brute force, but it really works to give the fastener a good, hard whack before you try to remove it. That helps to loosen the bond of rust that has formed in the threads of the fastener. Give it a whack, then use some penetrant. Then give it a whack a couple of more times, each time putting penetrant on the fastener. Then, after a few cycles of this, try to remove the fastener. Start by giving the wrench or ratchet a hit with a hammer. Again, this helps to jar it loose. If you move it a tiny bit, then keep wiggling it back and forth while using penetrants until you can cleanly turn it out.

Good luck.

 

[themechanic]

I'll let whoever buys the intake blast it, paint it, or whatever they wish. I'm just trying to do a quick cleanup.

 

[gkent]

You're dealing with dissimilar metals with those plugs so there's no surprise to them being seized. Some penetrating fluid might work as well as brute force but in my experience, HEAT works wonders. Since its aluminum and you don't want to melt it, focus the flame on the plug only. Heat it up but let it cool down before trying to loosen it. It will take a long time for the aluminum to cool so be cautious touching it with bare hands.

 

[4speed68rt]

Just spray some purple cleaner on it, rub it with a dish brush and rinse with water. Let the buyer take it from there. I doubt they are going to pay more if its detailed. Maybe they want that "vintage" look to match there old engine. That gives them that option. Just a thought.

 

[gkent]

Clean parts sell faster than filthy parts any day. But that only applies to grease and grime. Clean bare metal ... great. Freshly painted stuff ... what are you hiding! Just my 2 cents.

 

[69a100]

When Cr8crshr did his Satellite, his Eddie manifold got filthy, He just cleaned it the best he could and then shot it with some aluminum paint. You couldn't tell the different between new and being painted. Good Luck

 

[Fast340cuda]

Mag wheel cleaner has worked pretty well for me.