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Need Wiring Harness Tips & Tricks

InOverOurHeads

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Just got a new wiring harness from American Autowire #510691 to put in a restored 1972 Satellite shell. We have little experience, but the instructions look good. Anyone have any tips, tricks, or suggestions before we get started?

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Yes, go slow and think about the car today and tomorrow.. get the good crimpers.. it is a great kit, just have to work at it.
 
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Enjoy it - wiring is one of my favorite parts of a project. It doesn't have the glitz and glamor of firing up an engine but it is equally rewarding.

Personal notes / Hints / Tips
1. Don't make the wires too short but don't make them too long either - longer wires lead to messy routing
2. Don't ever use insulated connectors.... if you're going to do it - do it right. Crimp, solder, ohm test, then heat shrink it.
3. Take your time
4. Add headlight relays while you're wiring
5. Think about what you may add later and account for it wiring wise
 
Yes, go slow and think about the car today and tomorrow.. get the good crimpers.. it is a great kit, just have to work at it.
Will do, we'll remember the thinking part when we have to talk ourselves down next time we admit we don't know what we're doing, ha!
 
Enjoy it - wiring is one of my favorite parts of a project. It doesn't have the glitz and glamor of firing up an engine but it is equally rewarding.

Personal notes / Hints / Tips
1. Don't make the wires too short but don't make them too long either - longer wires lead to messy routing
2. Don't ever use insulated connectors.... if you're going to do it - do it right. Crimp, solder, ohm test, then heat shrink it.
3. Take your time
4. Add headlight relays while you're wiring
5. Think about what you may add later and account for it wiring

Thanks for the awesome tips, we'll keep them handy!
 
I just had one of these harnesses delivered today for my '71 Charger. Any lessons learned you can share?
 
This comes at the perfect time as I am completely rewiring a 69 ply wagon for a client. We started off with a generic 21 circuit harness off ebay and I am in the process of installing it now. This isn't my first rodeo as I have done a lot of electrical work on past cars, most recently built a harness for my 73 Cuda restomod.

First off, while the harness will provide you with all of the feed lines and connecting lines generally, you are going to have to understand how everything interrelates and connects, what does what and make some decisions on how you want it all to function. I am not familiar with the harness you bought so I don't know if all of the switch connections are already in place or not, but either way, the very first thing I do is make drawings of every switch and subsystem I am going to be using in the car. I do mine in PowerPoint because it is easy for me but you can hand draw it or even use a more complex program. I put all of this into my "electrical" book for the car along with copies of the factory diagram/s for reference. To draw the switches, I use the factory diagram to see where everything goes and/or connects to which then helps me understand how that switch was designed to function.

Ma Mopar did things a bit convoluted in my opinion electrically, but it is important to understand why and how it was done, this will help you apply your new harness so that everything works.

While I could probably list a ton of what I would call tips, here are just a few;

1. do no assume everything in the car works (meaning switches, lights, etc.), you have to test everything.
2. as already stated, terminate your wires correctly which means proper crimp, solder, heat shrink. EVERY connection I do is done this way.
3. buy good tools and supplies, this doesn't mean the most expensive it means quality crimpers, wire strippers, etc. as well as spade terminals, Packard 56 blades, etc. You can get everything online (much of it on Amazon) but look at Del City, Waytek, etc. Get a good soldering system, I use a Weller digital but have used many others, it needs to get hot enough to heat up the joint and melt the solder.
4. if you are not familiar with soldering, learn it before starting. It is not hard but like anything, there are some nuances such as tinning the solder tip, using flux, selecting a type of solder, etc.
5. buy 3:1 heat shrink, this means it will shrink 3x its beginning size which gives you a lot of working room. Not a lot worse than crimping and soldering an end and then when heat shrinking finding out it doesnt go down far enough to protect the joint.
6. take your time. If something isn't right, fix it correctly before moving on.
7. do not take shortcuts (like twisting 2 wires together and tapping them up), this will bite you hard later
8. do no look at the entire project holistically, focus on one area and work that, then move on
9. lay out your harness at the beginning. I am not sure if you have the dash out but I HIGHLY recommend it as it makes it so much easier to deal with.
10. understand how electricity and specifically automobile electrical systems work along with how relays function. Most importantly understand the fundamentals which sounds intuitive and simple but can cause problems such as with negatively switched items such as the dome light and some fuel pumps.
11. make sure you install good grounds in the system which includes the instrument cluster, dash frame, engine, etc.
12. do not enclose your wires until you know everything works. I use electrical tape (3M Super 33) and put a small wrap every 3-4" to hold it all together first. Yes, this means that you will have to do some disassembly later one to wrap if you desire, but its a lot better than having to cut the wrap off to figure something out.
13. keep good records of what you do, this might prove very important later on if there is a problem. Get a notebook and make drawings, write notes, etc. so you have something to refer back to. Include any instructions or diagrams you get along the way for the harness and/or other things such as a MSD, new gauges, etc. My electrical books (3 ring binder) is typically several inches thick when I am done, but it has everything you would ever want to know about the electrical system of that car.
14. as stated, do not cut your wires until you have routed them and are happy with the length.
15. do not apply power until everything is connected or you are absolutely positive there are no bare wires laying around or hiding.

Have fun
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Sucks being shade blind....takes me 3 times longer to do wiring than someone who isn't so I try not to mess with it.... :(
 
AND make sure that everything is grounded properly. Scrape paint off wherever you attach a ground wires for good contact, use Dielectric grease on all connections to make connection air tight ( prevents oxidation corrosion) And waterproofs. Makes it easier to unplug connections if needed with out putting a strain on connections. Engine to firewall grounds.
 
Nice write up, I added some of my own responses.

Ma Mopar did things a bit convoluted in my opinion electrically, but it is important to understand why and how it was done.


The ignition switch for "starters". IGN 1 and IGN 2 seems to confuse everyone. Be aware that the American Autowire systems are based off GM designs.

2. terminate your wires correctly which means proper crimp, solder, heat shrink. EVERY connection I do is done this way.


I submit respectfully that you probably don't need to heat shrink and solder EVERY connection. The factory didn't do it, good crimps should be sufficient. Maybe wires that are outside the car would be a good idea to heat shrink but the harness theoretically will get wrapped when you are done so plan ahead for that. In addition, things will get very bulky and doing this for everything increases your time exponentially. Solder has to be done right or it can make a mess and sometimes do more harm than good. Remember, you are trying to make the current flow from the wire strands through to the terminal. Solder makes that connection rigid which is not always a good thing.

3. buy good tools and supplies, this doesn't mean the most expensive it means quality crimpers, wire strippers, etc. as well as spade terminals, Packard 56 blades, etc.

Good crimpers are a must, don't use the $12 ones from BozoZone. Get the correct ones for the Packard terminals AAW sells them and is money well spent. Some crimpers will not crimp those particular terminals.

9. I am not sure if you have the dash out but I HIGHLY recommend it as it makes it so much easier to deal with.

If practical this is very true. It sucks trying to fish an entire harness through the dash while it's in the car. Lots of sharp edges, you're generally upside down and it's hard to see what you are doing.

12. do not enclose your wires until you know everything works.

This is probably the one idea that you should consider the most. It's real easy to get caught up in wrapping everything all nice and pretty then find out some wire buried under everything is wrong and has to be re-done. Agree that there is some extra work involved but it will be less than having to take it all apart when it's wrapped. I just went through this very thing on my EFI project and am now re-doing the harness for the third time.

13. keep good records of what you do


The American Autowire diagrams are pretty good and give decent descriptions of how things work.

14. as stated, do not cut your wires until you have routed them and are happy with the length.

Similar to the idea of wrapping before knowing everything works. Sometimes you think something will reach when it's laid out on the floor or whatever but then when you get it in the car, it's too short or you have 4' of extra wire.

15. do not apply power until everything is connected or you are absolutely positive there are no bare wires laying around or hiding.

Yeah, this is good practice. I will add that don't leave things half done thinking you will go back later and finish because you won't! Finish whatever task you are involved in, it will go a long way to keeping mistakes to a minimum.

Have fun

I second that!

Realistically every old Mopar should probably be re-wired. The original wiring is 50-60 years old.

The one thing I did not like about the AAW kit was the bulkhead connector they use - it sucks. If the dash is out it's probably a lot easier but on my car it was a huge pain to get it in. They need to come up with a better solution.
 
In reference to crimping, soldering and heat shrinking I will say the following;

1. it is true that the factory didn't do this because they had a machine to do the crimps that was set to ensure that each crimp is correct (not under or over crimped) and it was vastly cheaper not to solder

2. while crimping in of itself is not necessarily difficult, it is very easy to do poorly; if you crimp too hard it can break the wire or some of them and ultimately fail, if you crimp too loose the wire can pull out or otherwise stop making contact.

3. soldering adds a level of confidence that the connection is made

4. you do not need to heat shrink terminals that are going into connectors/blocks, only when they are exposed which isn't very many

I am not sure what original things you will be using but here is another tip. If you have corroded electrical components/terminals here is an easy way to help deal with it;

- get a jar and pour in some white vinegar along with a generous amount of salt
- get a second jar and pour in some water and baking soda

you use the vinegar/salt to eat the corrosion, if possible you can submerge the corroded part in there (just the electrical terminals) for anywhere from 30 seconds to several minutes. Then you rinse the part with the water/baking soda.

The 3rd pic is after being submerged for about 30 seconds (swishing it around) and the last pic is after about 5 minutes.

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I've done a lot of wiring. I was wondering about lessons learned specific to this particular kit. Especially any problems with the instructions.
 
The AAW kits are nice but like any aftermarket part, it was most likely designed around a small block Camaro and massaged to fit a Chrysler product. If you plan to just put it in as it comes then it will be a relatively easy job. Once you start modifying it, you're essentially just paying for the materials and not the engineering.

The wire is all TXL which is quality wire and again, the diagrams were pretty good.

Besides the Packard 56 terminals, late model GM terminals like the Pack Con style. (packard connector)

You will have to cut a few original harnesses to mate up with theirs like your turn signal, dome light, wiper and maybe a few other things.

I'll say it again, the bulkhead they give you sucks. You cut out a template and stick it over the existing hole so you can mark two spots that you have to drill out for mounting screws. On my car ('68 Coronet) this was a major pain because the firewall is not flat. The connector has these raised areas which inevitably make it twist when you tighten it down, the exact opposite of what you want. And unless you are creative, securing it to the firewall is a two-person job. I used vice grips on the lock nuts and tightened the screw heads from inside with a 3' handle screwdriver.

IMO, there were a lot of extra things they include that could have been done away with. Like, I don't need an an electric speedometer harness but it would have been nice to have a simple map light harness which is not included and costs extra to purchase. Go figure.
 
In the car I am doing I am using the stock (new one) bulkhead connector and all of the harnesses will emulate the factory harness, a bit more work but the end result is much better.
 
A couple other considerations -
Strain relief - Support your wires. Never allow a connection point bear the weight of the wire or have undo tension on a connection point.
Good heat shrink (sometimes referred to as Marine Grade) is slightly thicker and contains an adhesive that melts when heated.
If you are using slip on/spade style connectors, buy "high temp" connectors. They are harder, tight fitting and don't tend to spread apart like aluminums ones.
 
nice replies guys. I am intimidated by this. But, I might give it a go anyway. Sure beats paying someone....
Question
Mine is a '70 Bee. I am going to go with Dakota Digital's new ralley RTX gauges.
I assume yall would still use this kit to make all of the connections to the DD control box?
 
Sucks being shade blind....takes me 3 times longer to do wiring than someone who isn't so I try not to mess with it.... :(

I am shade blind but the new harnesses are so much nicer with all of the wires labeled every 6" or less
 
nice replies guys. I am intimidated by this. But, I might give it a go anyway. Sure beats paying someone....
Question
Mine is a '70 Bee. I am going to go with Dakota Digital's new ralley RTX gauges.
I assume yall would still use this kit to make all of the connections to the DD control box?

I have not installed a DD dash but a buddy has and he told me is it very straightforward and simple, just read the instructions several times so it is clear in your mind.
 
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