New engine old build

[68Moparmaniac]

Hello my fellow brethren, looking to tap the vast accumulation of knowledge here on FBBO.
This is a topic that I have never had the experience with. I built my RB 440 about 10 yrs ago and has been sitting ever since . Been stored in good areas, never been subjected to anything harsh. I have every 4 to 6 months rotate the crank thru it’s revolutions and change the resting orientation for another 4-6 months. My question is should I be worried about seals failing? Don’t want to assemble everything and find out I got a rear main leak or a leak in general from anywhere, also the trans was finished around the same time. Should I blow it apart and re-seal everything or roll the dice and hope fore the best? I value everyone’s opinion.
Thanks guys, and gals
Moparmaniac

 

[440Coronet500]

Pull the oil pump drive and prime the engine first. Rotate the motor over a few times, if no leaks you should be good. 440'

 

[Budnicks]

sounds like you did the proper stuff, while storing it

priming it like said above is a great suggestion

good luck

 

[65-440]

That's a gamble, one I probably wouldn't take. 10yrs is a decent amount of idle time. I'd change some seals while the engine is still out

 

[68Moparmaniac]

sounds like you did the proper stuff, while storing it

priming it like said above is a great suggestion

good luck

What do you think about the trans?

 

[68Moparmaniac]

Had to repair my spelling for KD

 

[68Moparmaniac]

That's a gamble, one I probably wouldn't take. 10yrs is a decent amount of idle time. I'd change some seals while the engine is still out

I kinda been on the same

 

[68Moparmaniac]

sounds like you did the proper stuff, while storing it

priming it like said above is a great suggestion

good luck

Think maybe I’ll pressurize the system and see if it fails would be the easy.

 

[Budnicks]

What do you think about the trans?

new seals while it's out is an easy deal too...
money well spent

pull the converter lube up the pump drive/hub
drain if necessary & put a fresh quart of fluid or 2
in the converter
as long as the seals are still soft-ish
it should be ok too,
but easy to change while the engine/trans is out

when you fire it up for the 1st time
make sure to put it in neutral
so the pump picks up the oil/trans fluid quicker,
let it warm up & recheck the fluids, in park
& look for leaks

good luck

 

[Curiousyellow71]

10 years I think you will be fine. For sure I would pull the valve covers. Check out the condition of valve cover gaskets such as being brittle or shrinkage, also look for signs of moisture or rust. Surface rust will take out rings pretty quickly. If things look good with the covers off. I would run it...no worries.

 

[beanhead]

As far as the rear main goes...the only way to test it is to tip the engine nose up so the seal is completely covered in oil, and then let it sit for at least 4 hours, overnight is even better, turning the crank every so often. No amount of pressure will push oil past it if it's not right; it's too high above the sump level. Priming and/or pressure is a great way to check other places, but nothing replicates what goes on at 5000 rpm. More important is what Curiousyellow mentioned, rust in the bores..

 

[68Moparmaniac]

new seals while it's out is an easy deal too...
money well spent

pull the converter lube up the pump drive/hub
drain if necessary & put a fresh quart of fluid or 2
in the converter
as long as the seals are still soft-ish
it should be ok too,
but easy to change while the engine/trans is out

when you fire it up for the 1st time
make sure to put it in neutral
so the pump picks up the oil/trans fluid quicker,
let it warm up & recheck the fluids, in park
& look for leaks

good luck

Trans was done by AAMCO. Figured nation wide coverage, but had a little tickle added...