new forged crank

[adk-roadrunner]

Hey guys im in the middle of my 440 rebuild and the other day my machinist told me that my crank would need to be ground and would cost 120.00. he suggested that i may be better off finding a forged crank for cheap and paying to have that ground as mine was cast and had a problem near where the main seal is anyways and also I wanted to have the crank drilled so I could go to a 4 speed eventually. So I found a forged crank on ebay for which had already been refurbished standard on the mains and .10 on the rod journals which I ended up winning at 122.00 so I thought that was cool. I took delivery of the crank today and the journals look good by eye and the whole crank is covered with a sticky protective grease but man the rest of the crank is damn ugly and rough looking compared to the cast crank. There are deformations and like rough tabs sticking off in some places there is even what appears to be where its been ground on near the mains on either end not on the journals but on the sides of them. I guess my question is is it normal for these forged cranks to look so rough and how could they possibly be balanced. also the crank appears to be drilled already for the pilot hole how deep is it supposed to be and are there supposed to be threads in there. I took some pics for people to look at here ya go.

 

[99ss]

Thats effin nasty looking

 

[adk-roadrunner]

Ya lol that's what I'm talking about I read that the mopar forged cranks are ugly but damn this thing is rough. The crank came in a box from rpm international and the seller told me they are the company who remanufactured the crank. By the way the journals are smooth they just look funny because of the grease on them

 

[moparmarks]

Ya it is drilled for a pilot bushing. One of the balance holes is funny looking. I'd have your guy check it out and clean it up. Check the journals and balance.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

Ya one of the balance holes appears to have weld in it or something.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well, now you have yourself the extra expense of balancing. It's obviously been balanced at one point in the past. Unless you have everything it was balanced WITH, which you do not, you'll need to have your entire reciprocating assembly balanced. The pic of the extra balance hole is unclear, but other than that, the crank looks very nice. Forged cranks have a more rough appearance than cast. It's nothing abnormal at all. I wouldn't dare assemble that engine now without it being balanced. No way, no how.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

Never planned on building without balancing would have been paying for balancing with old crank as well.new pistons are on the way and I also bought a new balancer for a forged crank and it is all going to the machinist who already has rods and block and he will be balancing it all after checking the crank over. I was just very surprised at how roughly these forged cranks seem to be made.

 

[RustyRatRod]

That's good. You CAN get by without balancing.....but the only time I would do it is if I were using the same crank and rods out of an original engine. I may well leave balancing off my Hemi build. I'll be using the original crank and rods. It's a 56 model engine and if it lasted this long it's probably pretty close. Especially with a neutral balance engine using original hard parts, it's not as critical. The reason for the forging being more rough than a casting is because the forging is essentially "mashed" into shape.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

The main reason why I wanted to get a different crank was because of the damage to the ridge right near the rear main seal which some people said diverts oil away from the seal. No one even my machinist could say wether it would cause a problem or not and I really did not want to deal with one like a real main seal that leaks horribly because of it.

 

[Meep-Meep]

That's actually a 413 crank. I can tell by the tabs coming off near the rod throws. I should say rod throw because it look like one of the tabs has been cut off. That one balance hole seems to have a plug welded in it. No big deal, so does my crank.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

So your saying its a 413 crank are they even the same. If not I need to get my money back are there any numbers on these forged cranks that tell You what there from. The guy I bought it from on eBay said it was intended for hid engine build but he put the project off. I'm so sick of shady deals lol. I'm actually pretty irritated now as it was listed as a 440 crank this guy prolly bought the wrong one and was just selling it off. I found another site with a side by side comparison of the 2 and you can clearly see no tabs on the 440.

 

[mopar367]

It is the same as a 440 crank, 413 and 440 are both rb engines. Only difference is those little tabs on the rod throws.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yes they are the same. Stop havin a heart attack. It'll work just fine.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

Lol I was too. I was like Wtf you have got to be kidding me here. I've done some research and have seen they are The same.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Sorry, I didn't mean for you to have a heart attack. Dimensionally the same crank so if it's good use it. In all fairness the seller probably had no clue there is a difference.

 

[mark wickens]

I thought 413 cranks had 8 flexplate bolt holes like a hemi crank does. i've seen numerous 440 forged cranks with the tabs hanging off the rode throws. It will work in a 440 regardless.