Newbie needs some help, stock 318 and some other issues.

[myfirst-72charger]

Start with a little background...I came upon a '72 Charger hardtop, solid car, very little rust (mostly surface) and it runs. Gave about $1000 bucks for it. It has a 318 in it with a Holley 4bbl 600 cfm carb, What i believe is an upgraded intake. I think it may have a cam in it as it sounds a little lunky on idle, and it runs like a top. It has the column shift torqflite tranny (904) in it as well. I am wondering if anyone has had some experience with putting headers on their stock 318, which ones are worth the dough and which ones are junk. I am going to make it a driver so i don't need the best, but want something that will not chip, flake, and rust after one use. Any advice on this would be great......

Next topic,
It has th 8 1/4 rear end in it, with 2.71 gears. I want to change those to give it a little pep in its step, thinking of 3.55 gears. I was wondering if I can change it to a posi, what it would take to do so, and if anyone has some experience doing this that wouldn't mind giving me some advice.

Thanks!

 

[rumblefish360]

All street headers suck except the pricey ones from either:
Doug or TTI

You can purchase a new differential (sp?) it's called a Suregrip and not a posi.
Contact Dr. Diff

 

[myfirst-72charger]

All street headers suck except the pricey ones from either:
Doug or TTI

You can purchase a new differential (sp?) it's called a Suregrip and not a posi.
Contact Dr. Diff

I understand that Doug and TTI are the best. I really wouldn't mind spending the money, the fitment is the main issue, trying to find some that I don't have to convince that they will go in.....
I find conflicting reports on what the diff was called... like I said newbie.
Thanks

 

[Hemi Rebel]

You shouldn't have fitment issues with a 318 in 72 charger. You have fitment issues when you cram headers in a 440 dart. I wouldn't go spending all the money on big name manifolds. No header will stay as pretty as it is when its straight out of the box. And don't go for some monster size primary tubes. I don't know what they have for small blocks, but I would say 1 5/8 should be good

 

[rumblefish360]

Let me rephrase what I said;

All headers suck ----

In other words, you're most likely going to have to convince, persuade, and force most every header in. A Hammer, pry bar and friend or two are most likely needed.

Except the pricey ones. -----

In other words, headers by Doug and TTI's will fit in without all the major fan fare, cursing a d other such fun stuff and tools.

This is not a guarantee of a perfect fitment and fun time with Doug's or TTI's or a bad time and poor fitment with the typical 1 size fits all header.

Believe it or not, Summit racing and Headman headers were the best fitting cheap headers I have ever installed while I have has friends curse them to no end with venom dripping from the fangs of hate and spitting 10 penny nails at the same time.

Choose your poison well.

 

[WP29440SE]

sorry Rob (lol) , but in my very recent experience ,the small block long tube headers fit very well in the B bodies. pop the centerlink off the pitman arm and the tie rod end, and they slip right in, leave the header loose while you feed the centerlink back through the header. I have not had to do any hammer tuning to make them fit, plenty of room. the same headers in an A body are a little more of a challenge, as are the big block long tubes. you will have to feed the starter up with the drivers side, and you will have to remove the oil filter , and then use a short PH43 or equivalent . not a big deal at all . patience is the key , get the car up high enough. it also helps at ton to have the front and rear exhaust studs in tact to hang them from. they also go directly into water jackets.

 

[rebootej]

I agree with super, mine went in to my 74 satelliet relatively easy, a few in and outs, but didnt need to bang, dent or pry on any part. But definitely change the oil filter, i made that mistake. The set i have are Dynomax ceramic coated, but it doesnt look like dynomax is making my set of headers any more but they still look great, id recommend the ceramic coating.

 

[rumblefish360]

Glad you had an easy fitment. I have not been so lucky as you guys.
Let me know how you feel when you bash 3 out of 4 tubes on the drivers side in a little while.

 

[WileERobby]

Did these quite often back in the 70's, one of the easiest installs, used mostly Hooker or Hedman, sometimes Thorley. Even Blackjack or Appliance. No issues to speak of even on the cheapo stuff.

 

[myfirst-72charger]

Thanks for all the replies! I am not worried about side clearance such as a 440 in a dart, more worried about underside, linkages, filters, starter, trans...etc... I am thinking some mid priced ceramic coated summit long tubes. Going to install duals on it as wells to give it some growl...maybe even some cutouts. haha. Anyway thanks guys!

Anyone have anything on the rear diff, thinking of just keeping the 8 1/4 and going up to 3.55 gears.... don't really feel like dealing with the posi.

 

[myfirst-72charger]

Correction SURE GRIP....:iamwithstupid:

 

[kb67mopar]

I am not sure how long parts are common but its pretty easy to find a posi (i did that on purpose) in a junk yard. Pretty much any 4x4 Dakota from the 90's came with a limited slip in the rear axle and I know most of those were 8 1/4 axles. Try your local yard, you might find a gear set and limited slip pretty cheap. I am pretty sure my 93 dakota had 3.55 gears in its 8 1/4