No power to distributor

[satellitedave440]

I have a 73 ssp with a .030 over 440. It has electronic ign. distributor with the old style module. The distributor was replaced with a remaned one from Cost Less because the timing mark was bouncing between 7-10 BTDC. It is running a semi-aggressive cam so I think the timing mark will be a couple of degrees off OEM. I installed it then it wouldn't fire. I tested it and had no volts to the distributor or spark from the coil. I replaced the coil and module and it fired right up. I set the mark at about seven BTDC and adjusted carb and was running great. I killed the engine waited five seconds and then refired it again. Started fine. I waited twenty minutes and came back and tried again, it would roll but no fire. Out comes my test meter. 4.96 volts at coil no spark and .5 volts at the distributor and 10.96 on hot side of the alternator with the key on. I replace ballast resistor and replaced any bad wiring in conjunction with it. This time it acts like it it wants to start cuz it pops and farts but acts like it still has low volts. Out comes meter same numbers. This time I test the wires at the module and I have no volts on the distributor output side. I replaced all wiring going to the module and to the distributor by using insulated round female connectors which fit snugly on the pole terminals off the module. Now I have .5 volts of the output wire to the distributor. I am going to replace the new module cuz it may be blown. Cost less said they would swap it out. If that doesn't work I am going GM HEI conversion. Note: This car has a 1000CA battery in the trunk fresh plugs, cap, rotor (which does not fit as snug as I would like it to on the distributor) and plug wires. Any input would be appriciated.

 

[Budnicks]

Diagram & help maybe

This might help some maybe... Make sure all the connections are good, Make sure you have a good engine to firewall/body ground, add a ground strap/wire w/star type washers at the back of the head or intake, to one of the ECU controller mounting bolts, will also help to shorten the path for a good ground, saves coils, controllers, magnetic pick-ups, in the long run too... I also always run a adequate sized #4ga. 0r #6ga. ground wire from the alternator body to the chassis/body inner fender-well ...You can also add/run a #8ga. or larger wire from the main charging 12vlt. out-put 1/4" threaded terminal on back of the alternator, to the main large 1/4"-5/16" threaded terminal on the starter relay , it helps by shortening the path of the charging system, instead of having to go all the way thru the AMP gauge, then thru the under dash wiring {the large black wire that is branched everywhere , under the dash, from the bulkhead connector to the Amp. gauge etc.} than out to the starter relay, the wires under dash can still remain in place too.... Try www.MadElectrical.com there are some great electrical repair & tech. articles & parts available there too... Oh yes make sure you have a proper air-gap between the distributor star reluctor & magnetic pick-up coil, around 0.008", make sure you check with a non-magnetic brass feller gauge...