No spark on new build

[Roger63]

Here is what I have, new 440 build using a pertronix 3 distributor and matching coil. I have good voltage at coil but no spark. Disassembled distributor and inspected and no apparent damage. What am I missing?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I've never run a Petronix setup, but maybe something I say will help. I'm thinking about a 72+ electronic chrysler type ignition.
1. How do you know you don't have spark?
2. Ground a spark plug outside of the engine & crank it over
3. Do you have spark in BOTH crank & run key position?
4. Do you have spark coming out of the coil? (e.g. coil bad)
5. How do you know you have good voltage at the coil? (i.e.. did you put a volt meter at the + on the coil? and does it show voltage at both "crank" and "run" key position?)
6. What is your spark plug gap?
7. How well is your engine block grounded to the body/battery/frame?

 

[Roger63]

I attached a voltmeter to the coil to measure voltage. 12.9v static 12.5 while cranking. I also measured the resistance on coil with nothing attached it measured in range of factory specs. Pulled coil jumper out far enough to see if I had spark out of coil,none. Pulled a plug and grounded still no spark.

 

[Roger63]

One thing I don't know is how to test the module in the distributor. I measured resistance across the 2 leads and it shows an open circuit. I don't know if that even means anything.

 

[twecomm]

Not that familiar with Pertronix stuff, but If you are measuring a "pickup coil" in distributor, and indeed it's a similar system to a Mopar electronic ignition system, you should see some measurable resistance or continuity. Is a just coil of wire. Think that might be your problem.

 

[Roger63]

If you are measuring the pickup coil in distributor you should see some resistance or continuity. Is a just coil of wire. Think that's your problem.

I'm not sure I am or not, the pertronix distributor only has 2 wires that go to the module and that's what I'm testing.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I attached a voltmeter to the coil to measure voltage. 12.9v static 12.5 while cranking. I also measured the resistance on coil with nothing attached it measured in range of factory specs. Pulled coil jumper out far enough to see if I had spark out of coil,none. Pulled a plug and grounded still no spark.

So, power to coil, but no spark coming out. That is either the coil itself or no signal coming from the distributor. IF it were the 72+ Chrysler electronic distributor, you'd turn the key to "on", disconnect the double-plug going to the distributor, and ground on/off the exposed double-plug bullet connector (with coil output wire set up to test for spark) and it would make the coil fire every time you grounded that double-plug bullet connector..... spark = bad distributor pickup & no spark = coil bad

 

[Geoff 2]

If the Pert came in a box, keep the box [ best part of the deal ] & throw the rest away....Pert is junk.

Does the dist use a Hall effect or mag p/up to trigger the module.?

 

[Roger63]

If the Pert came in a box, keep the box [ best part of the deal ] & throw the rest away....Pert is junk.

Does the dist use a Hall effect or mag p/up to trigger the module.?

Mag p/u

 

[kiwigtx]

The polarity of the distributor might be wrong.

 

[Geoff 2]

Mag p/ups require an air gap. The original Chrys design was adjustable for an 0.006-8" air gap.
GM HEI style dists have a 'fixed' air gap, but there is some adjustment within the p/up coil mounting screws.
If the reluctor tip touches the pole piece, there is no spark. If the air gap is too big, there will be no spark. Can you post a pic?

 

[Roger63]

Well I got it running and the cam broke in. It was the module that was bad I had to wait for a replacement but all good now.