No spark to No 1 cyl on my Hemi?

[Stucat]

Good morning. Here is my problem. Engine was running fine. Removed 1yr ago to repaint engine bay. Reinstalled and was hard to start. Cranked but wouldn't start, added gas to back carb. Than is would sputter but not stay running. did that 2 to 3 times that I could get it running, but not with out a skip. would only stay running when warm and above 1000 RPM. Car would start the next day no problem. But if I waited a week or so would go back to the first starting issue. Car is a 70 Hemi that was converted to a Mopar electronic setup. So did some testing and no 1 cyl wasn't getting a spark. Did a plug change, spark plug wire change, a cap change, did the orange electronic box change, ballast change , fuse able link change. Check for bad wires, still no spark, compression check ok. I am missing something. any ideas? Whats baffling it was running fine before it was removed.

 

[RemCharger]

Bent distributor shaft?

 

[Jerry Hall]

You did a repaint, make sure your voltage regulator has a good ground.

 

[yella71]

and the ign box.

 

[Stucat]

i will pull the unit Monday and check the grounds also. will let you know how i make out

 

[dadsbee]

No spark on just #1? Bad distributor cap..

 

[dan juhasz]

problem with reluctor tooth or gap?

 

[RJRENTON]

Good morning. Here is my problem. Engine was running fine. Removed 1yr ago to repaint engine bay. Reinstalled and was hard to start. Cranked but wouldn't start, added gas to back carb. Than is would sputter but not stay running. did that 2 to 3 times that I could get it running, but not with out a skip. would only stay running when warm and above 1000 RPM. Car would start the next day no problem. But if I waited a week or so would go back to the first starting issue. Car is a 70 Hemi that was converted to a Mopar electronic setup. So did some testing and no 1 cyl wasn't getting a spark. Did a plug change, spark plug wire change, a cap change, did the orange electronic box change, ballast change , fuse able link change. Check for bad wires, still no spark, compression check ok. I am missing something. any ideas? Whats baffling it was running fine before it was removed.

Can I have your origional Prestolite dual point distributor that came with the car, now that you've converted to the MOPAR electronic setup? PM me.....
BOB RENTON

 

[tonysrt]

Take the cap off and crank it to make sure distributor shaft is turning true.

 

[dan juhasz]

how are you checking for spark?

 

[Geoff 2]

If just #1 is not getting spark, it could be the cap or lead. It could also be the reluctor gap [ likely it has no gap, is touching the pole piece & you get no spark on THAT cyl ]. It could be the gap is too big, but that is less likely if just one cyl is affected.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

sounds like you have the wrong rotor in it. Typical today they get mis labled.

 

[oldkimmer]

U didn’t mark the cap with a jiffy marker did u to find #1 later? Kim

 

[Stucat]

Sorry for the late delay. stated to work on the problem. My mom took a turn for the worse at the home she is in. So haven't done much. but thanks for all the inputs. I should be back home by next week.

 

[Stucat]

Problem solve, was actually 2 issues. Bad distributor and intake gasket. Changed the distributor and spark was constant, but still hard starting and ruff idle. Found a leak in the intake gasket. Engine was rebuilt 24 years ago, had been sitting for 3 years during the restoration. had no issues before we took the engine out. only when we put it back in 3 years later and started it. Thanks for all the help and input.