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Normal Operating temperature with aluminum RPM heads?

Where do I aim the temp gun? by the water neck, or the block?

BTW... I am using a new Autometer gauge, it better be accurate!

I just bought million-dollar spark plug wires I haven't put on yet. Probably has nothing to do with anything, but maybe it will run more efficiently? idk?
 
Where do I aim the temp gun? by the water neck, or the block?

Check the outlet temperature of the coolant heading to the radiator and near the temp sensor with your temp gun. Then check the various areas of the radiator to see if you might have an area of the radiator that’s plugged. Also check the temperature near the lower radiator hose. This will help give you an idea of how the cooling system is functioning.

I’ve also checked header tubes to see if an any cylinder is running significantly hotter or colder than the rest.

If your existing spark plug wires are decent, the new wires likely won’t make a difference.
 
Some of the newer BMW’s run at 250! 220 isn’t hot, but I’d like to see temp on a hot day be around 200.
 
My Red Challenger (Edelbrock heads on a 340) was running hot & I tried all the normal stuff... Coolant flush, thermostat changed three times, 190, 160, 180... Still ran 220.... Tried fattening it up, no change.... Used my infrared thermometer gun, verified the gauge was right.. Eventually I tried adding more timing & the temperature dropped... More timing, the temp dropped more... I've been running it for nearly a year with 34 degrees of base timing & advance locked out.... It always runs right at the thermostat...

Yes, I have verified the timing marks are correct...

As I've posted before, it shouldn't need that much timing bit it runs great & stays cool... The car is happy & I ain't gonna worry about it...
 
My Red Challenger (Edelbrock heads on a 340) was running hot & I tried all the normal stuff... Coolant flush, thermostat changed three times, 190, 160, 180... Still ran 220.... Tried fattening it up, no change.... Used my infrared thermometer gun, verified the gauge was right.. Eventually I tried adding more timing & the temperature dropped... More timing, the temp dropped more... I've been running it for nearly a year with 34 degrees of base timing & advance locked out.... It always runs right at the thermostat...

Yes, I have verified the timing marks are correct...

As I've posted before, it shouldn't need that much timing bit it runs great & stays cool... The car is happy & I ain't gonna worry about it...
How are you are starting it at 34 degrees?
 
How are you are starting it at 34 degrees?
It starts right up... No kick back at all... I was expecting to have to disable the ignition during initial cranking but it's fine..

I built the short block back in 1992, used TRW 2332P pistons which are the 68-71 forged replacements... They sit .025 proud of the deck so when the engine was finally put into service I bought the open chamber Edelbrocks designed for a 340.... If I didn't already have the pistons I would have used the closed chamber heads... But that's not the case... Per the numbers it should be a true 9.6-1...
 
I have the RPM heads; she runs 195* - 210* going down the road on the hottest of days.

I was driving her today she was right around 205* cruising. Its ~93* outside right now.
 
I have the RPM heads; she runs 195* - 210* going down the road on the hottest of days.

I was driving her today she was right around 205* cruising. Its ~93* outside right now.
Yea, that is about what I get. I did let the car run and burp out any air. Seems a little better... still creeps it's way up to 210 though in traffic.
 
Yea, that is about what I get. I did let the car run and burp out any air. Seems a little better... still creeps it's way up to 210 though in traffic.

What fan, clutch, and radiator do you have?

Needs to be at least a 4 row radiator, big block fan (7 blade IIRC), and viscous clutch. Should be 1-2 inches max clearance between rad and fan also; with a good fan shroud.

I have that setup with a 2 row aluminum radiator (s/a 4 row copper in flow if not better);

Mine will sneak up to around 210 if it idles for a long time or stop and go on a hot day. It also runs a little more towards 210 in on a hot day with the A/C on. I thought about adding an electric booster fan to the front but there is not much room for a good one.
 
Just wait until Karen from the HOA goes grocery shopping...then dump it. :p
Yea, when we were kids... we thought nothing of it. Didn't really know any better. We had dogs too; they never were sick or died. Probably smart enough not to drink it IDK? Maybe lucky, I guess.

I have two small electric fans, and an aluminum radiator. Not sure the kind, it came with the car.

Good to see though, I'm not the only one who's car gets up to 210 though. Maybe it is the aluminum heads that makes the difference? Strangely enough aluminum heads are the ones that warp the easiest under heat. Go figure.

I know too when I was breaking in the cam it was SUPER hot! over 210! I was afraid to shut it down in fear of wiping the cam. I made it the 30 minutes though and everything SEEMS to run fine. Those heads are "tickier" though. Seems slightly louder than Iron Heads.
 
Yea, when we were kids... we thought nothing of it. Didn't really know any better. We had dogs too; they never were sick or died. Probably smart enough not to drink it IDK? Maybe lucky, I guess.
I didn't mean to tip it in the dogs drinking bowl.....have you got a lawn with some weeds.....of dig a hole in the garden away from nice plants or vege and tip in there. Cover it over. I do that with waste paint, and no-one got upset.
 
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