Not running right

[1968RRTEXAS]

Good evening everyone. I was hoping to get some advice (again) on my car. I took some video so it would be easier than describing.

Its idiling rough and wont accelerate in gear.

[video]https://youtu.be/Dwhtjl7uGUA[/video]

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[video]https://youtu.be/-l_-pfLuTSU[/video]

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<font color="silver"><font size="1">[video]https://youtu.be/PjoPdrTb79Q[/video]

[video]https://youtu.be/CM7lWIJ_QYU[/video]

 

[Sonny Black]

try putting it in the DARK....can suggest electrical arcing was at fault.... :eusa_think:

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

try putting it in the DARK....can suggest electrical arcing was at fault.... :eusa_think:

I have a points type distributor with new msd spark plug wires. I was thinking it was a ignition issue, but I dont know how to test to rule it out. I use to have a electronic ignition (still have ecu and wiring harness) a new one is $145 and i want to make sure that it needs replaced. I just dropped alot on that new pretty carb lol

 

[Pops1967GTX]

A little more info need.... May be dealing with multiple issues here.
Did you change something & this is a new problem ?? Is this a points ignition??? If so ...Start a check list...
Is your vacuum needle steady or bouncing?
can you adjust the timing while it is running with the gauge hooked up?
.... points ignition is the dwell set correctly using a meter...

Check dizzy take off the cap.....rotor.....then see if the shaft wiggles side to side...or maybe a spring came off a weight...

Hook up a vacuum Gauge.... adjust the idle speed about 600...Then adjust the two mixture screws until you get the highest vacuum reading. This takes time to stabilize. Now You have highest vacuum reading .....Then set the idle speed to 650-700 & plug the vacuum advance back in.

.just a few to get you started

 

[747mopar]

I remember reading your other thread, I have a similar cam in mine and mine would run like crap with the timing set where you have yours. My motor likes alloooooooooooooot more timing than that. I've got 2,000 miles on mine with the ignition timing locked in at 36 degrees, I'm not saying that will work for you but don't be surprised if it wants allot more than you think.

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

A little more info need.... May be dealing with multiple issues here.
Did you change something & this is a new problem ?? Is this a points ignition??? If so ...Start a check list...
Is your vacuum needle steady or bouncing?
can you adjust the timing while it is running with the gauge hooked up?
.... points ignition is the dwell set correctly using a meter...

Check dizzy take off the cap.....rotor.....then see if the shaft wiggles side to side...or maybe a spring came off a weight...

Hook up a vacuum Gauge.... adjust the idle speed about 600...Then adjust the two mixture screws until you get the highest vacuum reading. This takes time to stabilize. Now You have highest vacuum reading .....Then set the idle speed to 650-700 & plug the vacuum advance back in.

.just a few to get you started

Q: Did you change something & this is a new problem?
A: I just installed new spark plug wires (last ones burned on the exhaust) Also installed a new carburetor (last one had crack in the casing) The engine ran worst before the new carb install. The carb is a holley 770 street avenger w/manual choke

Q:Is this a points ignition?
A:YES

Q: Is your vacuum needle steady or bouncing?
A: Yes, i posted a video with the vacuum guage reading

Q: Can you adjust the timing while it is running with the gauge hooked up?
A: Yes, I had the vacuum guage hooked up the same way it was in the video and moved the distributor left and right and the psi never went up, only down. So right now its set to where it is producing the most vacuum.

Q: Points ignition is the dwell set correctly using a meter...
A: I dont know what that is or how to do it

I am hesitant to adjust anything on the Carburetor at this point, unless i know for a fact that it needs adjusted.Thanks for all the tips, I will pull the cap off tonight and check the shaft for play

 

[Pops1967GTX]

New carb, Yes leave it alone for now...New wires ....recheck make sure they are correct..

If you don’t have a Tach/Dwell meter to set the Dwell ..Dwell is the number of degrees of distributor rotation while the points are in the closed position.

Dwell setting has to do w the gap between your points...set the gap with a feeler gauge at about 0.0.17 or 0.018”

Set the gap at the high point of the cam lobe, and be sure that the feeler gauge is flat with the 2 surfaces of the points.
simple video....
[video=youtube;D4MUx5mfVik]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4MUx5mfVik[/video]

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

I remember reading your other thread, I have a similar cam in mine and mine would run like crap with the timing set where you have yours. My motor likes alloooooooooooooot more timing than that. I've got 2,000 miles on mine with the ignition timing locked in at 36 degrees, I'm not saying that will work for you but don't be surprised if it wants allot more than you think.

After running down the list that pops1967GTX has me going through, I will look into the timing. I appreciate the feedback

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Check dizzy take off the cap.....rotor.....then see if the shaft wiggles side to side...or maybe a spring came off a weight...

I removed the distributor cap and inspected the condensor, its pretty dirty. I think its worth the $10 investment to go ahead and replace it and the rotor.

I tried to wiggle the shaft side to side and it moved, but barely. Is it suppose to have zero play in it?

 

[miller]

I removed the distributor cap and inspected the condensor, its pretty dirty. I think its worth the $10 investment to go ahead and replace it and the rotor.

I tried to wiggle the shaft side to side and it moved, but barely. Is it suppose to have zero play in it?

Distributor shaft sounds good to go. Might not be much, but a few things tossed in...
Real good chance if the rotor needs to be replaced, so does the cap. One other note on caps, new or used, there's a carbon 'button' inside at center of the cap. It's the contact for the rotor. Simply make sure that carbon contact is there, and in good shape. A cap with carbon tracking along the plug wire contacts, will also make one run rough.

While your in the dizzy, rotor off, look at the center top of the distributor's shaft. You should see a small felt pad inside it. Make sure it's there. And put 3-4 drops of oil onto that felt pad. Your spark advance rotates there, off the main shaft, and needs to be lubed via that pad. With the rotor in place, see if it rotates a handful of degrees, and snaps back okay. Your spark advance needs to move freely.

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

[update]

well my mopar loving dad bought me a new electronic distributor with ecu (orange box). Finished installing it all today and it seems to be running better, but its still not good. I can barely accelerate down the road. I tried revving it up a bit to try and blow some of the crap out, in case that was a issue. Here is a list of what I tried after installing the new distributor:
#1>I added some octane booster to the tank, thinking that might be a issue.
#2>I pulled out all the plugs and wrote down the conition (see attached picture). I also gapped them to .040, they were at .035. I pulled the #8 spark plug back out after my last attempted drive and it was wet again (shown in pic). I assume its oil.

#3>Set the timing to around 12deg adv
#4>Hooked up vacuum gauge to manifold again. the guage needle is alot more steady now. Its hovering around 15
#5>Adjust the idle to around 800rpm

Im lost on what to try next. I guess I will do a compression test to see if the cyclinders are good. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

After reading this morning. Could it be possible that I installed the double roller timing chain incorrectly? It was from summit and it had more than one key for the crankshaft gear. I used the "0" slot. Just trying to think of what else it could be

 

[coloradodave]

Yes, do an accurate compression test with the motor warm and the throttle blocked open. (Coil wire grounded). Valuable diagnosis test.

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

Will do. Thanks for the reply

 

[Pops1967GTX]

Yes, do an accurate compression test with the motor warm and the throttle blocked open. (Coil wire grounded). Valuable diagnosis test.

X2:headbang:

 

[Bigal75]

Is it a new carb? Have you adjusted the Idle mixture?

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

Update: cant afford a compression tester. So during my lunch break today I Pulled the #8 spark plug and connected it back to the spark plug wire. Set it on ground and cranked the engine over. No spark! Pulled a spark plug that was burning normal and swapped it out with the #8 plug and it sparked while cranking. It seems that I have bad champion spark plugs. Going to get some autolite plugs when my chief financial advisor(my wife) allows it lol

 

[dieseldazzle]

Rent or borrow a compression tester even though you found a plug issue. Got to go back to the basics on this one brother.

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

My buddy comes back from out of town on the first of August. He has one I can borrow. I will run the compression test and post results. Really hoping it's just bad spark plugs.

 

[skrcsmith4]

Sounds like your running on 7 cylinders. double check wires to make sure all are seated correctly

 

[Shorthorse]

If you live near any of the big chain parts stores, they will "loan" specialty tools for free with a deposit. If you have a compressor, try a leak down tester also. The leak down can help point you in the direction of a possible problem. I think somewhere about 5% is acceptable.
At least you have one clear visual indication of something wrong, #8 plug. It may be defective, fouled or worse, your #8 cylinder is bad in some other way. If a plug doesn't fire and gets gasoline fouled, that's expected but if that was oil, that's not good.
I watched your vacuum test several times but with my old computer it was a little tough. Did the rpm's actually go up when you removed the hose?