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Oil leaks

dvw said:
If you didn’t have excess crank pressure before the cam swap you shouldn’t have any now either. I was just pointing out causes of excessive crankcase pressure. So you have a few paths to a correct repair. Make sure the lower timing cover bolts aren’t too long. Leak check as suggested to see exactly which of the two gaskets are leaking. Or replace just the pan gasket and hope that’s it. Last replace both the timing cover gasket and the pan gasket. Your choice.
Doug
Click to expand...
So why would it not leak at idle, but when im out driving it it leaks?
 
What did you use to seal the gasket to the mating surfaces ?
 
I have never and would never cut the oil pan gasket and use the 'repair' gasket, that's just inviting a leak, imo.

Pull the pan, 'correct' any bolt holes in the pan, and make sure it's flat.

Didn't know the lower cover bolts were shorter, good to know, but always kept them in order when removed.

I used these bolts, with the serrations:
PLYMOUTH Milodon 85020 Milodon Oil Pan Bolt Kits | Summit Racing

I thought I was cool and bought this reusable windage tray gasket. Put a little rtv where the rear cap meets the block.
Turned out it kept oil from returning to the pan at high rpm, a-body 383 with shallow oil pan.
But, since it's reusable I cut the windage tray part out and reinstalled.
Has a unique double row gasket, rings around the bolt holes, with metal rings embedded iirc.
Summit Racing SUM-G2339 Summit Racing™ Molded Gasket Windage Trays | Summit Racing

I actually bought the same stuff for another 383 I put together recently and cut the center out.
Uh huh, too expensive for a gasket you're going to cut up, but no leaks.
 
matthon said:
I have never and would never cut the oil pan gasket and use the 'repair' gasket, that's just inviting a leak, imo.

Pull the pan, 'correct' any bolt holes in the pan, and make sure it's flat.

Didn't know the lower cover bolts were shorter, good to know, but always kept them in order when removed.

I used these bolts, with the serrations:
PLYMOUTH Milodon 85020 Milodon Oil Pan Bolt Kits | Summit Racing

I thought I was cool and bought this reusable windage tray gasket. Put a little rtv where the rear cap meets the block.
Turned out it kept oil from returning to the pan at high rpm, a-body 383 with shallow oil pan.
But, since it's reusable I cut the windage tray part out and reinstalled.
Has a unique double row gasket, rings around the bolt holes, with metal rings embedded iirc.
Summit Racing SUM-G2339 Summit Racing™ Molded Gasket Windage Trays | Summit Racing

I actually bought the same stuff for another 383 I put together recently and cut the center out.
Uh huh, too expensive for a gasket you're going to cut up, but no leaks.
Click to expand...
As far as I know all the pan bolts are the same length. But it makes sense cutting the gasket invites leaks.
 
I stopped using paper, cork gaskets etc about 30 yrs ago [ or was it 31....]. On a 440 Chrys engine, the only gaskets I use are intake [ bath tub ] & head gaskets. I do not get leaks.
My headers which are s/steel & home made, I filed the flange perfectly flat. No gasket, just high temp silicon, been on over 20 years.
 
Geoff 2 said:
I stopped using paper, cork gaskets etc about 30 yrs ago [ or was it 31....]. On a 440 Chrys engine, the only gaskets I use are intake [ bath tub ] & head gaskets. I do not get leaks.
My headers which are s/steel & home made, I filed the flange perfectly flat. No gasket, just high temp silicon, been on over 20 years.
Click to expand...
Hmmm good to know
 
Aron Gleason said:
Do you have a link?
Click to expand...
Indian Head is what I started using over 50 years ago, to this day.
1769494233839.png
 
Aron Gleason said:
Is that supposed to be better than red high temp sealer, ultra black or ultra blue sealer?
Click to expand...
All I know is what works. And I worked many moons ago in a garage. Doing numerous jobs. Ask me how many customers were comebacks for a leaky gasket on a job I did.
 
WileE said:
All I know is what works. And I worked many moons ago in a garage. Doing numerous jobs. Ask me how many customers were comebacks for a leaky gasket on a job I did.
Click to expand...
So just use the Indian head by itself without a gasket? Would you not use a gasket for the timing cover and water pump housing too?
 
Aron Gleason said:
So why would it not leak at idle, but when im out driving it it leaks?
Click to expand...
Two posibilities. There is always more crankcase pressure with rpm, normal. Or it could be windage. Depending on how large the exit hole is splash from the chain could be a contributing factor. I have repaired a lot of weird location leaks that didn't leak visually at idle, cam plugs, dipstick tubes, transmission case leaks. Just sharing 50 years of experience as auto technician. As far as gasket replacement; Clean is #1. Basically straight is #2. BB is the easiest to seal oil pan there is. Same with the timing cover. Both being sheet matal they will never be completely flat. Good quality RTV is your friend. But it has to be clean to work. Brake clean or laquer thinner on a white towel until it no longer turns black is clean. The idea of letting it "skin over" doesn't get it. You want it to adhere. How do you know if it will adhere? Spread a very thin coat on each metal surface with your finger. If it leaves bare metal areas an doesn't adhere then the metal isn't clean enough. You need only the light spread of RTV on the gasket to block. On the sheet metal parts? After giving it a light spread to make sure it sticks, then run a 3/16" bead. You don't need a ton. That just makes a mess. Now bolt it up. After curing you can take a pocket screwdiver along the edge and remove any excess for a profesional look. Properly done you won't even see the RTV. Ultra Grey RTV has been my go to for years. As a final note. I have no issue cutting a gasket. On small blocks I always trim the gaskets short of the rubber. Then use RTV to fill the gap. In fact Ultra grey will seal it up with no gasket at all. Why use a gasket? Using RTV only makes the parts extremely difficult to seperate. Case in point. My racecar manifold it two piece. The lid is sealed with Ultra Grey only. The first time it had to come apart was a no go, no matter where it was pried. Had to drill a series of 5 1/16" holes at the gap between the parts. And then pound a screw driver in between the two halves. Those holes where later filed into a nice notch. That notch has been filled with RTV ever since. Took it apart yesterday. Took a pretty good whack to get it apart
Doug
 
Last edited:
Aron Gleason said:
I have superformance oil pan gaskets. I was told by Greg not to use anything on the gaskets
Click to expand...
This is What I was getting to in post #13
And you never answered, do you have a windage tray?

I bet that sealer doesn't stick to Gregs gaskets, and now there may be a thickness difference.
This is why I don't cut off the existing pan gasket and use the new front piece.
 
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