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Oil Pan & MP Windage Tray Sh*t Sandwich Mess

I see those recommended frequently but I’ve never used one. I’d like to try one at some point.
A lot easier to install under the car than 2 gaskets and a windage tray. Plus, no waiting for silicon to dry before you can start the car.
 
A lot easier to install under the car than 2 gaskets and a windage tray. Plus, no waiting for silicon to dry before you can start the car.
Yeah there doesn’t seem to be a downside. Maybe I’ll try one on the current build.
 
Yeah there doesn’t seem to be a downside. Maybe I’ll try one on the current build.

I'm using one currently on the 383 in my Challenger & I'll use them on any other BB Mopar builds in the future.. Oh, it's also re-useable...
 
The Summit tray with the built in gasket is the best way to get a leak free pan....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...wTm0t-Bng2cUJI_9cAxj4vx6lqgfdB4oaAhT7EALw_wcB

Now that is a cool invention. Like so many here I've been tormented with oil pan leaks on my 440. I think I've nailed the last one, at the back of the pan, with an intelligent use of Permatex spray glue (which is another excellent invention), but if that fails I need to redo the gasket. (Again.)
 
Now that is a cool invention. Like so many here I've been tormented with oil pan leaks on my 440. I think I've nailed the last one, at the back of the pan, with an intelligent use of Permatex spray glue (which is another excellent invention), but if that fails I need to redo the gasket. (Again.)
That nylon windage tray with the reusable gaskets is a nice touch. to bad they didn't have them in 1966 It would haved saved me a lot of work. an anybody else that fooled around with this stuff.
 
I like the idea of a two finger torque method with a 1/4” drive. I went by torque specs at 15 foot pounds and destroyed my pan. I think one mistake I made was using a 1/2” drive torque wrench with a 3/8” adapter
 
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I like the idea of a two finger torque method with a 1/4” drive. I went by torque specs at 15 foot pounds and destroyed my pan. I think one mistake I made was using a 1/2” drive torque wrench with a 3/8” adapter
My 1/2 torque wench will not even go to 15 foot lbs.
 
I've had good luck with Indian Head sealer and 1/4" drive
 
I have always felt if you're mashing the gasket, it too tight. Mash the gasket and distorting the pan flange is a sure way to leaks that no sealant will fix. I don't understand this need for seleant on gaskets. If a sealant is needed why even use a gasket. Is it needed for a filler? NO. Is it need for a base for sealant? NO. Is it needed for a material failure " distorted pan " or improper gasket installation? That would be my guess.
 
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