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Oil pump went dry after oil change

KyleFinlay

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Hey guys first post here, recently picked up a '70 satellite, it's oddly got a 400 BB as it was originally a 318 car. I just recently changed the oil, and during the job the oil pump went dry and with the new filter and oil, I had no oil pressure! I tried all the easy tricks to get pressure again. In The end I had to remove the distributor, the oil pump gear/shaft, make a tool to reach the pump, and prime it manually by turning it with a pneumatic drill. I pulled the line from the aftermarket pressure gauge so I could see when it began to start moving the oil. Eventually it worked, I reinstalled all the parts and it worked fine. Here's the final question, WHAT HAPPENED???? Is there a check valve in the oil pump or oil pickup tube? Something failed and I dont plan to do this procedure everytime I change the oil.
 
Is there a check valve in the oil pump or oil pickup tube?
Off hand, only thing I can think of is the pressure relief valve, that's in the oil pump. Might be hung open, or trash not letting it seat.
Pickup tube has to be right, inside the oil pan, and not pulling any air.
How is your oil pressure while running, and any signs of the oil getting aerated?
 
I have seen this happen one time. A guy changed his oil and filter and tried to help the lag time by filling a little oil into the filter. This air locked his oil pump. They do drain back to the pan to a point when you drain the oil. We loosened the filter just a bit turned the engine over and it primed the pump.
 
I have seen this happen one time. A guy changed his oil and filter and tried to help the lag time by filling a little oil into the filter. This air locked his oil pump. They do drain back to the pan to a point when you drain the oil. We loosened the filter just a bit turned the engine over and it primed the pump.
Strange, I have prelubed filters for years and have never had that happen.
 
Yes I've still got good pressure now, I'll have to reconnect the line at the actual pressure Guage because it started to drip and it let air back in at that point, giving me false readings, but I've put at least 80 miles on it since that happened and everything seems fine.
 
I prelube the oil filter too but on a big block, you can't get much into it....
 
There's actually a handful of threads about this topic, when I asked several other go to guys here locally, they all said I was forgetting something or that my oil pump was shot. But I explained all I did was drain and replace the oil it made no sense for something mechanical to fail. BTW I also prelubed the filter before screwing it on.
 
What filters are you using? A Fram? If so quit. All filters have a bypass valve and Fram has one of the cheapest ones made.....for that matter, they are one of the cheapest filters entirely and are also one of the most that are counterfeit.
 
As a matter of fact it is fram. Ill be replacing that ASAP! I did the oil change after work At the shop I work at and the service department was closed so I couldn't get a genuine Mopar brand Filter. I'm in the body shop department of a dealership, Not to mention the Worlds Largest Dodge dealership so I'm sure we have the right filter for it.
 
I recommend WIX or Napa Gold oil filter. Fram displays at the auto store have been nicknamed "The Orange Wall of Death.
 
I recall reading an oil filter study by someone years ago. The guy who did it I believe was a Mopar man and he went through a huge list of oil filters and actually recorded flow rates and everything. He also cut them open and compared what the filter media was and everything else, check valve, etc...I think I found it through Moparts.com, not sure. I think the guys name was Knise or something like that and he was very thorough. Interesting enough, he mentioned that some factory Mopar filters were made by 2 different companies back then and one of them was not particularly good. I did correspond with him once or twice and he confirmed that Fram was one of the crappiest filters going. You is Right Cranky!
 
Good to know! Considering Fram is the brand Wal-mart carries it could be a good indication to stay away!
 
IIRC, I quit using them about 30 years ago....25 for sure.
 
I have a fram just to put on while painting the engine it then comes back off. No reason to paint a good NAPA Gold. Got it free from ORilees with oil. Have not used a Fram on a running engine since 1974.
 
Cheap quality comes from a cheap price. This doesn't just apply to filters, but all parts on a car. When I was looking at intake manifolds for my 318, I bought the weiand action+ because it was $100 cheaper than the edelbrock. The weiand had all kinds of flaws like it wouldn't clear the stock distibutor and the bolt holes were drilled in the wrong place, and it wouldn't seal. So I spent a little more, and got an edelbrock that sealed first try. That was a $300 dollar mistake. personally I use napa gold or platinum filters. K&N filters are nice too.
 
Strange, I have prelubed filters for years and have never had that happen.

Same here, I'm calling BS on this! Rick Ehrenberg suggested the oil fill for filter procedure many years ago.
 
RAN FRAM HP-1 FILTERS FOR YEARS NO ISSUES , GUESS I WAS LUCKY , I'M RUNNING VALVOLIN VR-1 FULL SYNTHETIC IN MY 493 AND WAS LOOKING INTO FILTERS CHECK THIS OUT
 
Cheap quality comes from a cheap price. This doesn't just apply to filters, but all parts on a car. When I was looking at intake manifolds for my 318, I bought the weiand action+ because it was $100 cheaper than the edelbrock. The weiand had all kinds of flaws like it wouldn't clear the stock distibutor and the bolt holes were drilled in the wrong place, and it wouldn't seal. So I spent a little more, and got an edelbrock that sealed first try. That was a $300 dollar mistake. personally I use napa gold or platinum filters. K&N filters are nice too.
Haven't bought a Weiand product in a lot of moons but they were usually a pretty good product. All the problems you mentioned with yours makes me wonder if it wasn't a Shinese knockoff/counterfeit....?
 
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