Old school build vs a stroker build

[Dakotaacres]

I see all these stroker kits and strokers in just about every classic car in my area.

Is old school build (340/383) still popular, like touchup maybe turn the crank, maybe bored with HP pistons if needed, stock heads maybe reworked (906/452), a different cam with stock rocks springs etc., aluminum intake, edelbrock carb, with stock manifolds or headers.

I don't have deep pockets. I'm assuming strokers are more expensive, or am I wrong.

Thank you

 

[johnny ga]

strokers arent that bad depends what performance you are looking for

 

[ckessel]

Costs for what needs to be done/repaired/replaced needs to be factored in the equation. On the reciprocating assembly is the crank fine or need repair? What shape are the rods in? Do they need to get resized, bolts replaced, re bushed or are they too stressed from work cycles? What's the intended usage? Cruiser/drag strip/nitrous/blower? Piston cost? Ring cost? Want it balanced?
Refurbishing of heads. Light deck and valve job or replaces valves/guides/seats? Any cracks?
If you have costly reciprocating issues, how does the cost compare to a stroker package?
If the heads are costly, how do they compare to new ones?

 

[RemCharger]

Nothing at all wrong with building a stock cubic inch motor.
My daughter runs my 64 dodge with a 383, best of 12.50s . Very basic build with a 509 cam.
But if you have money to burn, stroker is the way to go.
Up here, my buddy bought a stroker kit this spring - it was $4500 in our dollars.
And THEN there's the Yada yadas of machining fitting etc.

 

[Runcharger]

I would be embarrassed if I built a stroker Mopar and it didn't go tens. Not every one of these cars needs a stroker crank and $2000 aluminum heads.

 

[BSB67]

You need to get real clear on both your budget and goal. If those don’t align, you’ll need to adjust something.

You can do an inexpensive stock stroke rebuild that will be considerably less expensive than a 500” motor.

If you do a 383 rebuild that is right as rain with really good parts and work, the cost for a stroker will not be that much more.

 

[BSB67]

I would be embarrassed if I built a stroker Mopar and it didn't go tens. Not every one of these cars needs a stroker crank and $2000 aluminum heads.

I get your point, but there are other good reasons for choosing a stroker over a std stroke motor, if budget allows.

 

[lewtot184]

just depends on what you want to do.

 

[496 polara]

Go with what you can comfortably afford. Remember it always costs more than you think it will. Nothing wrong with a stock stroke motor. If I had one recommendation for a worthwhile upgrade it would be aftermarket cylinder heads. That is where the power is IMO.

They beat on stock bottom end motors more than we ever will back in the day.Good enough then, good enough now. Yes lightweight parts make things better but they aren't required.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

If you want economical stroker, a 400 based 451 is about the most economical with stock rods and Kb pistons. I would probably buy the crank rather then machining a 440 crank to fit. But if you can turn the counterbalances and mains down affordably...they are a lot of engine for the $, and it will look like a 383.
383 doesn't have as many aftermarket pistons available but that doesn't mean you can't have fun.
A small block can run good and can be stroked as well pretty reasonably. I just Like the BB design better.
496 and larger I would expect to spend around 2k more on just the shortblock OVER a stock type build...if YOU can do the clearancing and assembly at home.

 

[padam]

You really need to define your performance goals.

When I got back into drag racing in 2020, my 413 was worn out. I bought a 400 core engine for a possible stroker.

I figured up the cost of a stroker targeting 600 hp, vs rebuilding the 413 at appx 425 hp. I believe the difference was around 2k cheaper for the 413 (not counting heads I think. )

So I just rebuilt the 413, and am keeping the stroker as a possible future project.

My drivetrain has its hands full with the 413. Another 200 hp would be a whole new batch of chassis and drive train problems.

 

[VANDAN]

If you are doing machine work on the block, just plan to stroke it. Costs won't be much different for parts, and the Power is the Reward. Just use Good parts, and find a shop that turns out Quality work...

 

[Bighouse]

The more you spend the more you may be afraid to hurt it. Throw something together and go do some donuts. Fix it when it breaks. Repeat.

 

[HawkRod]

Like others have said, the cost to do the machine work and assemble an engine properly is the same, regardless if it is stroker or standard displacement. The only key difference is that you need a different crank, rods and pistons. More than likely, even with a stock rebuild, you need pistons anyway, so the likely cost difference is simply the crank and rods. I'm not trying to say these are insignificant costs, but they are not huge.

I have built two strokers and love them both. I would absolutely do it again as long as I could pony up the extra funds. In one case, I had a bare 340 block that needed a reciprocating assembly anyway, so there was essentially no additional cost.

 

[toolmanmike]

The small block guys love the stroker. Going from a 340 to a 415+ or a 360 to a 408+ is a nice jump. Long stroke makes a lot more torque and it is at a much lower rpm where street cars spend most of their time.

 

[padam]

Like others have said, the cost to do the machine work and assemble an engine properly is the same, regardless if it is stroker or standard displacement. The only key difference is that you need a different crank, rods and pistons. More than likely, even with a stock rebuild, you need pistons anyway, so the likely cost difference is simply the crank and rods. I'm not trying to say these are insignificant costs, but they are not huge.

I have built two strokers and love them both. I would absolutely do it again as long as I could pony up the extra funds. In one case, I had a bare 340 block that needed a reciprocating assembly anyway, so there was essentially no additional cost.

In my case I re-used my pistons , so that is a significant difference.

Another issue is that once you decide to go with all new reciprocating assembly, none of your existing components seem good enough.

Aluminum heads, intake manifold, headers, might as well get an aluminum water pump.

These days flat tapper cams are too iffy to risk in your new stroker, the wise choice is a roller cam

Of course a new carb or EFI.
And if you go low deck you will need a new distributor, best to upgrade your ignition.

That stock clutch will burn up pretty quick behind 600 hp, and selecting a clutch is a real rabbit hole to go down.

I hope your pockets are deep.

“Speed costs money son. How fast do you want to spend?”

 

[HawkRod]

once you decide to go with all new reciprocating assembly, none of your existing components seem good enough.

“Speed costs money son. How fast do you want to spend?”

I very much agree that this is true. When I built my 340/ 416 stroker, I replaced the heads with aluminum heads so all those cubic inches could breathe. All the stuff you mention are common "scope creep" items for sure! I'm guilty!

Having said that, you can go down the same road if you are rebuilding a stock stroke 383. If we are going to compare costs differences the crank, rods and sometimes the cost of pistons are the true cost adders.

 

[padam]

I very much agree that this is true. When I built my 340/ 416 stroker, I replaced the heads with aluminum heads so all those cubic inches could breathe. All the stuff you mention are common "scope creep" items for sure! I'm guilty!

Having said that, you can go down the same road if you are rebuilding a stock stroke 383. If we are going to compare costs differences the crank, rods and sometimes the cost of pistons are the true cost adders.

Yeah, “scope creep.”

That can be the difference between getting the car on the road this year and enjoying it, and a 3-5 year project while we wait for parts delays, labor shortages, funding shortages, etc..

I’m 59 years old. Guys my age are dropping dead left and right.

I want to enjoy my car now.

 

[Kern Dog]

I see all these stroker kits and strokers in just about every classic car in my area.

Is old school build (340/383) still popular, like touchup maybe turn the crank, maybe bored with HP pistons if needed, stock heads maybe reworked (906/452), a different cam with stock rocks springs etc., aluminum intake, edelbrock carb, with stock manifolds or headers.

I don't have deep pockets. I'm assuming strokers are more expensive, or am I wrong.

Thank you

I did exactly this when I rebuilt the 383 for Jigsaw...

Stock 383 block, bored .030...

Stock 383 crank, cleaned up with no machine work needed.

Speed Pro pistons. Block square decked to achieve .015 deck clearance.

'346 heads with mild port job, milled approx .070 from stock measured 84 CCs.
Springs rated for the 280/474 MP cam.

Stock RB stroke windage tray....used and on the shelf so I put it to work here.

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake.

The rest was basic hot rodder stuff.....Holley 750, 1 7/8" headers, 2500 stall converter and the car runs great. The 383 Magnum was rated at 335 HP gross with a smaller cam, smaller intake and carb, exhaust manifolds and points ignition. The advertised compression ratios were exaggerations, by the way. This was a 2 barrel engine originally and the pistons sat .076 in the hole for what actually calculated to 8.12 to 1. Simply putting .039 Fel Pro head gaskets in place of the .020 steel ones would have left me at 7.8 or so. Holeeeee crap! It is calculated at 9.35 or thereabouts with the current arrangement. It had not knocked except when I overheated it on the freeway a few months back. I've since replaced the radiator and WP along with adding a good shroud.
Being a 383, it does run stronger with more gear. I had a 3.23 in it and was not impressed. I slipped in a 3.91 and it came alive. The 3.38 stroke is so short, it needs the leverage of gearing to get out of the hole quicker. A 440 could pull okay with a 3.23 but they have the longer stroke.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

In my case I re-used my pistons , so that is a significant difference.

If a engine is in good shape a rering job is a excellent choice. Yours runs pretty darn good. We have several motors with rerung cast pistons and stock rods....they get the job done.

Our first 4.25 stroked 510 rb originally had a iron intake, thermoquad, cheap 1 3/4 Hedman's, 452 heads w mild porting and a mp 484 cam. New pistons but redone Ly rods w arp bolts plus a top fuel hemi crank. We had a lot of fun with it. In street trim it was capable of running 12s at 108 all day driving it w 3.23s to the track stock stall. Great street manners and easy on gas.
The short block is still the same and is coming up on its 30th anniversary...we just changed everything else. Heads still have stock valves but we fully ported them...now 1 7/8 header, crane solid 248/258 @.050.
It isn't going to keep up with trick flows but better then a stock stealth or edelbrock(we have a flow bench)...we shift it at 6 k, and it likes it. It isn't going to run 10s...but thats all good( still makes me smile)! But variety is the spice of life...we also have a 340, 383, multiple 440s,510 and a 542. Each have their place.