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Painting engine bay..single stage or 2 stage paint

rustytoolss

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I plan to do a complete color change on the car. Not sure if I will be painting the car with single stage paint/ or 2 stage paint (long way off)..... BUT I want to paint the engine bay Soon. So should I use single stage paint/ or 2 stage paint ?? If you can't tell by now..I'm not a painter...it'sbeen long long ago, that I painted anything. ( this car will be a driver...no show cars in my garage.).
 
Single stage is probably the way to go for less headaches. Doesn't matter what type of paint you
use on the rest of the car. Make sure you clean, clean, clean, and then wash down with hot soapy
water before you start, then rinse off all of the soap. scotch-brite everything with the soapy water.
Spot-prime bare metal, scuff it and paint.
 
Black. (Just kidding)

I went with single stage with hardner. When painting the rest of the car later there won't be any reaction if you use BCCC. I like the single stage for nick and chip resistance. A little softer.
 
Single stage all the way. Too many irregular surfaces would be difficult to sand between coats efficiently. I painted the engine bay and trunk on my Duster with single stage, came out great. Not painting the outside either, pretty close match.
IMG_4651 copy.jpg
 
Black. (Just kidding)

I went with single stage with hardner. When painting the rest of the car later there won't be any reaction if you use BCCC. I like the single stage for nick and chip resistance. A little softer.
Funny you say that, Before I bought the car someone did paint the engine bay Black. So I want to paint the engine bay first....Since I got you, whats your thoughts on also painting the door jambs with single stage....even if you were to us BCCC on the body surface panels ?? Thanks for your input, helps a lot.
 
Funny you say that, Before I bought the car someone did paint the engine bay Black. So I want to paint the engine bay first....Since I got you, whats your thoughts on also painting the door jambs with single stage....even if you were to us BCCC on the body surface panels ?? Thanks for your input, helps a lot.

It will be fine on the door jambs also. You can still blend the outer surface paint into it as long as you use hardner in the single stage.

I like the looks of the single stage on these vehicles for the fact its what was used from the factory. Clear coat looks too glossy imo. There are a few exceptions that can look good. Certain colors, certain vehicles. Single stage can be color sanded to look real flat and glossy as long as it's not metallic.

Good luck with the spraying!
 
It will be fine on the door jambs also. You can still blend the outer surface paint into it as long as you use hardner in the single stage.

I like the looks of the single stage on these vehicles for the fact its what was used from the factory. Clear coat looks too glossy imo. There are a few exceptions that can look good. Certain colors, certain vehicles. Single stage can be color sanded to look real flat and glossy as long as it's not metallic.

Good luck with the spraying!
Colors I plan to use 1962 Plymouth Luminous Cordovan and Luminous Brown (chrysler rosewood)
 
if doing ss in the jambs, under hood, ect; and base/clear on the exterior.......there is a good chance of a mismatch; 2 entirely different formulas
 
if doing ss in the jambs, under hood, ect; and base/clear on the exterior.......there is a good chance of a mismatch; 2 entirely different formulas
I was wondering about that. Thanks for the heads up. I know it's had to say, but would it be like way off ? or just slightly different...I know to hard to say.
 
I think you're overthinking things.....I like to buy ALL the same type paint (color) at the same time, plus extra for future mishaps..... running out of paint at the end of a job can become an absolute disaster

I agree with KK that single stage looks proper on these cars, but ss metallics can't really be buffed, and must be applied evenly, wet, clean, and without any sags........ ss metallics are not forgiving like b/c,.......ss metallic is old school and a lost art; I might do my own car with it but that's it, you must accept what comes out of the gun......
 
I think you're overthinking things.....I like to buy ALL the same type paint (color) at the same time, plus extra for future mishaps..... running out of paint at the end of a job can become an absolute disaster

I agree with KK that single stage looks proper on these cars, but ss metallics can't really be buffed, and must be applied evenly, wet, clean, and without any sags........ ss metallics are not forgiving like b/c,.......ss metallic is old school and a lost art; I might do my own car with it but that's it, you must accept what comes out of the gun......
I'm sure your right. Thing is it may be several years before I'm ready to paint the exterior body panels. And as for "overthinking things" all I can say is "thats what I do" .. wish I knew how "not"too".
 
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If by single-stage you mean what we call "two-pack", then that's what I would do for all the inside parts.

My GTX was painted with Base coat and matt clear inside - front screen to end of the trunk,
The insides of the engine bay, trunk lid, door jams, rear panel for tail-lights, inside hood and insides of the doors all in two-pack (single stage)
Underneath was coated with Body Schotz sound deadening, and then once dried enough - we hit it with Matt clear for easy cleaning.
The exterior of the car was all done in Base coat + clear coat (two-stage)

To this day, the single stage parts are as shiny as they were when painted 23 years ago. No need for buffing....just a cloth with Quick Detailer is enough.
 
Single stage all the way. Too many irregular surfaces would be difficult to sand between coats efficiently. I painted the engine bay and trunk on my Duster with single stage, came out great. Not painting the outside either, pretty close match.
Is it just the lighting or did you shoot that with bed liner first ???
 
Base clear with modern toners is the best for what you are doing and your time-line, if you want it to match later, the key is good prep and spend the big $$$$ on the clear coat. $600 a gallon minimum.
 
20+ year old PPG Deltron single stage sprayed in the garage. I’m not a painter so it’s not perfect, but it’s still presentable. Keep in mind that the factory paint was far from perfect too...

16AA6AD8-9EFC-41A8-AB80-2208047E9400.jpeg
 
We use base/clear. All the paint purchased at once. Mixed into a 5 gallon pail and then back into smaller cans. Everything matches. We do not sand between coats. If it was solid color, or the car is already painted single stage would be ok. As stated it's tough to sand metalics without shade changes. I do use single stage on engines.
Doug
 
If by single-stage you mean what we call "two-pack", then that's what I would do for all the inside parts.

My GTX was painted with Base coat and matt clear inside - front screen to end of the trunk,
The insides of the engine bay, trunk lid, door jams, rear panel for tail-lights, inside hood and insides of the doors all in two-pack (single stage)
Underneath was coated with Body Schotz sound deadening, and then once dried enough - we hit it with Matt clear for easy cleaning.
The exterior of the car was all done in Base coat + clear coat (two-stage)

To this day, the single stage parts are as shiny as they were when painted 23 years ago. No need for buffing....just a cloth with Quick Detailer is enough.
This might be my best plan.
 
Base clear with modern toners is the best for what you are doing and your time-line, if you want it to match later, the key is good prep and spend the big $$$$ on the clear coat. $600 a gallon minimum.
I'm sure you know what you talking about...but $600. a gallon for clear is not going to happen. This car is a driver, and is not going to ever win an award for anything. I just want to make it a nice old car. I'm sure your paint jobs are stunning. Just not in my budget. Thanks
 
Do what you feel is acceptable. Its your car, and there is no wrong way. You already said that it is not a show car, you just want it to look clean and protected.
 
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