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Patina'd RR1 Burgundy 1968 Charger ("Ribeye")

I have a '66 Imperial in that Ruby Color . Was yours Enamel ? I like how the paint came back on that cool Charger !
 
I can see a "seasoned" paint for a car with an original engine but with the radical changes you have planned, it seems strange to me to go half-way.
I can see why you might think that but I don't have the time to do the body work myself and once you pay for a paint job, you realize how ridiculously expensive it is to go "one step further". Seriously...it's crazy. And I REALLY like the look of the paint. It's going to be a really unique look that gets a ton of attention. It will drive people (with perfect finished cars) crazy; they won't understand why it gets so much attention....but it will.
 
First of all, I applaud the efforts! Good to see another one getting deserved attention.
The part I don't understand is the plan to do the usual lowering/big wheel thing.
Nothing new about that at all anymore.
Sadly, a big chunk of cool old cars get treated to the same old "slammed" look to the point
where it actually bores me to tears - and seeing one actually sitting the way it came originally is a treat.
 
First of all, I applaud the efforts! Good to see another one getting deserved attention.
The part I don't understand is the plan to do the usual lowering/big wheel thing.
Nothing new about that at all anymore.
Sadly, a big chunk of cool old cars get treated to the same old "slammed" look to the point
where it actually bores me to tears - and seeing one actually sitting the way it came originally is a treat.
1. The wheels are 17" steelies so they're not that big (18-20's)...they're just big enough to fit some bigger Wilwood brakes and respond/handle better.
2. I just prefer a lower stance. It won't be slammed, but it will be lower then stock.
3. It will still be unique because of the paint combo, patina, satin black top, retro inspired wheels, and drivability (injected late model hemi, brakes, etc.).


This charger is actually pretty mildly modified compared to my other 68 Charger and 68 roadrunner (see my other threads). Everything I have done on this charger could be easily reversed so its not like it's "ruined forever"
 
I always liked this build, and interested in the direction you are taking. I always thought of doing a newer hemi swap in a gen two charger, but besides cost, I couldnt wrap my head around how I would interface the new engine systems with the old school gauges. So I will be anxiously waiting to see what happens. keep up the good work!
 
I think it’s going to look great!
With 5 kids, work, school board, etc, I've not been making much progress on this charger. But I've also been trying to be patient as I've been waiting to make a deal with a previous owner for the complete numbers matching 383-4. I've known where the engine was for the last 3 years and the owner was willing to sell it. The engine is in a Satellite he owns and it hasn't run in over 20 years. We even came to an agreement on price three years ago, but I can't get him to take any action. I've offered to pull the engine for him...I've offered more money for it...He has turned down my offer to pull it and he just won't ever get around to doing it himself. After three years, I've come to the conclusion it won't happen any time soon and I'm tired of waiting. I had also completely rebuilt and powder coated all the front suspension. So the direction is changing for the better.

I'm going Gen 3 hemi, A518, Vintage Air, and RMS front/rear suspension.

View attachment 1432547
View attachment 1432548

Also, I noticed that there is not blackout treatment on the front of the radiator support...and the radiator support has not been repainted.

View attachment 1432549
I do t believe the core supports were blacked out on dark color cars?
 
I think it’s going to look great!

I do t believe the core supports were blacked out on dark color cars?
Dark green, dark blue and black cars were not blacked out according to things I have read. This should be 66, 7, 8,9, and 70. Don’t know about later years.
 
I think it’s going to look great!

I do t believe the core supports were blacked out on dark color cars?
Radiator Support Black Out.jpg
At least on this year, dark green, dark blue, black and burgundy did NOT get blackout....
 
Catching up a little bit...

Got the Charger up on the lift to mock up the drivetrain...


fMmZVsYh.jpg


Mounted the cast manifolds first, which are from a 6.4L Jeep Cherokee SRT8. These headers are cheap and they actually came factory on Jeep SRT8's which had 485hp, so they can handle the power and won't break easily. I paid $125 plus shipping for them. The driver's side engine mount had to be redone to accommodate the cast headers. The mount was originally straight...now it is curved.

AbmW3iFh.jpg
 
It's kind of hard to see in these first two pictures, but the tunnel had to be clearanced to get the transmission up into the tunnel where it needed to be.

SHV9Xl1h.jpg

BUNq4Vkh.jpg


The torsion bar crossmember lips were trimmed down in the tunnel and a plate was welded in.

sgq4Uc8h.jpg

HO7oJHEh.jpg

C8NIW1Jh.jpg
 
I'm a little curious about the engine mount.

1695878920600.png


It looks to me like the bolts to the block are in serious tension. All the weight is trying to pull the lower 2 bolts out of the block. The banana curved section should be turned the other way with the outer mount secured lower in the chassis.
Am I wrong?

@1 Wild R/T ?
 
I'm a little curious about the engine mount.

View attachment 1531573

It looks to me like the bolts to the block are in serious tension. All the weight is trying to pull the lower 2 bolts out of the block. The banana curved section should be turned the other way with the outer mount secured lower in the chassis.
Am I wrong?

@1 Wild R/T ?
While I agree it would be better if the mount carried the load down rather than out the fact it's the drivers side so under power it's pulling up rather than pushing down it'll probably be okay... The fact it's an iron block helps too... Aluminum blocks tend to distort more than Iron blocks if you do anything that changes the stressing of the block...
 
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Catching up a little bit...

Got the Charger up on the lift to mock up the drivetrain...


View attachment 1531536

Mounted the cast manifolds first, which are from a 6.4L Jeep Cherokee SRT8. These headers are cheap and they actually came factory on Jeep SRT8's which had 485hp, so they can handle the power and won't break easily. I paid $125 plus shipping for them. The driver's side engine mount had to be redone to accommodate the cast headers. The mount was originally straight...now it is curved.

View attachment 1531537
I had a set of SRT8 GC manifolds and they didn't look anything like that, they are stainless tubular headers off of around a 16 model year. Wonder why yours are different?
 
I had a set of SRT8 GC manifolds and they didn't look anything like that, they are stainless tubular headers off of around a 16 model year. Wonder why yours are different?
Some years were cast and some years were stainless. I have used a pair of the stainless headers on my 68 Roadrunner but they are much larger and required modification to the outlet angle to clear the frame rail and firewall.
 
I'm a little curious about the engine mount.

View attachment 1531573

It looks to me like the bolts to the block are in serious tension. All the weight is trying to pull the lower 2 bolts out of the block. The banana curved section should be turned the other way with the outer mount secured lower in the chassis.
Am I wrong?

@1 Wild R/T ?
The mounting flange (that goes against the block) and the mount to the K frame are the same as they have been for however long Reilly Motorsports has been building them. Only the tube in between is different...With four bolts holding it tightly to the block it shouldn't be in sheer...and with torque rotating/pulling away from the mount, it shoudln't be an issue. If it was the design would have changed. RMS knows what works.
 
Thanks. I don't trust RMS as much as you.
 
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