Pilot bearing problems.

[dla4567]

Since I was this far in I decided to replace the pilot bearing in the crank. Used a bearing hook on a slide hammer and the center of the bearing came right out. Problem now is, how the hell do I remove the rest of the bearing?? It sits flat on the lip in the crank so there’s no getting behind it. Anybody body ever have this problem? Solutions??

 

[dadsbee]

No gap at all? Drill and tap two holes and use a steering wheel puller...

 

[dla4567]

No gap at all? Drill and tap two holes and use a steering wheel puller...

no gap at all!
I thought about drilling and tapping but some times that bearing steel is pretty hard. (Still an option though).

 

[gkent]

Leave it there and put in a bronze bushing like you should have done in the first place.

 

[dadsbee]

Always a charmer Stan! LOL... crank not drilled for a bushing.. old trans that's pilot shaft was cut off for a not drilled crank.. etc... I'd say that one's not drilled...

 

[Daves69]

....I thought about drilling and tapping but some times that bearing steel is pretty hard....

I'd guess the material is powder metal. Set your drill stop and go for it.
If it's an alloy powder that's sinter hardened or copper infiltrated and heat treated, you'll know PDQ.

 

[gkent]

I'd say that one's not drilled...

To me it does look drilled - that's why I suggested it.

 

[dla4567]

Leave it there and put in a bronze bushing like you should have done in the first place.

Didn’t think of that. I’ll do some measuring and check the input shaft. Thanks.
(I didn’t install it in the first place.)

 

[gkent]

(I didn’t install it in the first place.)

Just yankin' your chain !!

 

[oldkimmer]

There is a bushing to fit the auto crank pilot hole. Kim

 

[dadsbee]

There is a bushing to fit the auto crank pilot hole. Kim

Sure there is.. if the unfinished hole is actually concentric. You still need to cut 5/8" off the input shaft and at that point I sure wish that I'd had a roller bearing back in '77 while stuffing an A833 behind an auto 440 in my '69 Fury II. Life would have been so much simpler while lying on my back!

 

[493 Mike]

Weld a heavy washer to the bearing and pull on that with your slide hammer.
Mike

 

[65Fury440]

Fill the hole with grease, find something hard and round that fits the opening fairly tight and smack it in with a hammer, the hydraulic effect will push the bearing out.

 

[69Bee]

Leave the sleeve alone, and just put a new roller bearing in. The part number is in your pic; CE129.

https://www.amazon.com/INA-SCE129P-Bearing-10000rpm-Rotational/dp/B007D42VKS

 

[dvw]

Weld a nut to it. Thread a bolt into the nut until it bottoms in the crank. It will pull it right out.
Doug

 

[dla4567]

Fill the hole with grease, find something hard and round that fits the opening fairly tight and smack it in with a hammer, the hydraulic effect will push the bearing out.

Good thought but the lip in the crank covers the whole back of the bearing, nothing to push against.

 

[dla4567]

Leave the sleeve alone, and just put a new roller bearing in. The part number is in your pic; CE129.

https://www.amazon.com/INA-SCE129P-Bearing-10000rpm-Rotational/dp/B007D42VKS

Leave the sleeve alone, and just put a new roller bearing in. The part number is in your pic; CE129.

https://www.amazon.com/INA-SCE129P-Bearing-10000rpm-Rotational/dp/B007D42VKS

This is great, thanks. Seams like a cheap and simple fix.

 

[gkent]

Leave the sleeve alone, and just put a new roller bearing in. The part number is in your pic; CE129.

https://www.amazon.com/INA-SCE129P-Bearing-10000rpm-Rotational/dp/B007D42VKS

Best suggestion yet !!!

 

[mopar 3 B]

Weld a heavy washer to the bearing and pull on that with your slide hammer.
Mike

Why bother with a heavy washer? Just weld a nut on there and force it out with a bolt.

 

[Mopardrew]

Had that happen on my truck. Took carbide grinder to it. Kept taking a little at a time till it was thin then pounded screwdriver till it split. Worked pretty good. That metals pretty thin as it is.