• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Piston # number

chad

Well-Known Member
Local time
11:24 AM
Joined
Sep 7, 2014
Messages
214
Reaction score
61
Location
Guelph,Ontario
I bought a 67 belvedere with a 383 in it and it had a head gasket leaking in it.. apparently this motor was " rebuilt " 12 plus years ago and sat on a stand.. it had steel shim head gaskets and when the guy fired it all the antifreeze leaked in the oil.. I am going to do a full tear down because I will almost bet the anifreeze wiped a bearing out but who knows for sure.. i was just wondering if anyone knows what the part # is on the piston I googled it but no luck
20191011_194307.jpg
20191011_194307.jpg
20191011_192508.jpg
 
Not being a smartass, but just wondering why??, since they are flat tops? Funny how you can see they are restamped from 2863123 to 2863124. Those are older numbers for sure if they are Mopar. I'll look in a couple older Mopar Perf books and see if the number comes up....
 
Why not just by pulling main caps and a look see on the bearings. Check rods if you want to check everything . The deck and or heads warped ? O/S pistons how much?
 
Not being a smartass, but just wondering why??, since they are flat tops? Funny how you can see they are restamped from 2863123 to 2863124. Those are older numbers for sure if they are Mopar. I'll look in a couple older Mopar Perf books and see if the number comes up....

Just out of curiosity is all... I was also curious about the restamped number as well
 
Why not just by pulling main caps and a look see on the bearings. Check rods if you want to check everything . The deck and or heads warped ? O/S pistons how much?
I am going to check the deck and the head surface with a machined straight edge and feeler gauges tomorrow to give me a rough idea.
 
In the 1993 price list, there were'nt a dozen part numbers that old, and that wasnt one of them. I'll look a little farther back.....
 
By the looks of the deck the builder used "Copper Coat" on the gaskets which works well if you actually run the engine... If it sat for years all bets are off... Also Steel Shim gaskets should be retorqued... I would suggest going back with steel shim gaskets they help keep some resemblance of a decent compression ratio, the composition head gaskets are at least .020 thicker & with a 383 that .020 matters...
 
By the looks of the deck the builder used "Copper Coat" on the gaskets which works well if you actually run the engine... If it sat for years all bets are off... Also Steel Shim gaskets should be retorqued... I would suggest going back with steel shim gaskets they help keep some resemblance of a decent compression ratio, the composition head gaskets are at least .020 thicker & with a 383 that .020 matters...

The deck was smeared with copper coat... I have it everywhere now lol
 
The deck was smeared with copper coat... I have it everywhere now lol

Copper Coat dries completely so that could indicate he used copper anti-sieze... The standard comment about anti-seize is a drop will cover the earth.... Kind of a play on the old Sherwin Williams slogan but the point being the tiniest amount of anti-seize speeds to everything & if you touch it everything you touch will be wearing some...

I've heard of guys using it cause the copper variety does transfer heat well... But it was never intended to seal anything....
 
Copper Coat dries completely so that could indicate he used copper anti-sieze... The standard comment about anti-seize is a drop will cover the earth.... Kind of a play on the old Sherwin Williams slogan but the point being the tiniest amount of anti-seize speeds to everything & if you touch it everything you touch will be wearing some...

I've heard of guys using it cause the copper variety does transfer heat well... But it was never intended to seal anything....

Good old antisieze.. we use it at work when we interference fit stainless steel shafts and wheels together.. Some days by the time we are done you look like the tin man. Lol
 
Seems to me anti-sieze it would be the worst thing to use?
 
Years ago a guy I Knew assembled an engine completely using anti seize on all the surfaces, bearings pistons cam lifters...etc. I made him tear it down and clean off every bit of it. you don't put anti seize on sealing surfaces. you put SEALER.
 
Years ago a guy I Knew assembled an engine completely using anti seize on all the surfaces, bearings pistons cam lifters...etc. I made him tear it down and clean off every bit of it. you don't put anti seize on sealing surfaces. you put SEALER.
This motor is Mickey mouse for sure
 
FWI, I looked at the 1980 Direct Connection Cat just to see.... The only pistons they were selling then were 11.0 to 1 pop-ups, no flat tops in the catalog at all, and the part number all started #369xxxx, so those are some pretty old pistons you have there. Not saying anythning wrong with that, when you get it apart it will become obvious whether thoise are forged pistons or not, and I'm betting they are. So good, but heavy. HTH, Lefty71
 
Best fun with copper coat i've seen is people applying it on fasteners that are installed on the engine with an open end threaded hole leading to the sump or anywhere inside the engine.
So all the copper coat ends up in the oil, then wait for the first the best oil sampling results to return :D
This was on an industrial Caterpillar engine at work, maintenance supervisors calling in panic what happened with the engine..lol. (Cam follower roller pins and rocker arm bearings are brass...panic!)

It is good stuff to apply on machined surfaces to prevent corrosion, but to use it between a engine block and cylinder head is not really advisable indeed.
 
Best fun with copper coat i've seen is people applying it on fasteners that are installed on the engine with an open end threaded hole leading to the sump or anywhere inside the engine.
So all the copper coat ends up in the oil, then wait for the first the best oil sampling results to return :D
This was on an industrial Caterpillar engine at work, maintenance supervisors calling in panic what happened with the engine..lol. (Cam follower roller pins and rocker arm bearings are brass...panic!)

It is good stuff to apply on machined surfaces to prevent corrosion, but to use it between a engine block and cylinder head is not really advisable indeed.
This motor is sketchy at best lol.. head bolts weren't even tight on one side lol... I bought the car knowing it had motor troubles so I am not too upset lol
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top