plug wires

[lorny]

I pull #1 and bump the engine over until the compression forces your finger out. Line up #1 on the balancer with the timing tab. Pull the cap and make sure the rotor points towards #1. If it doesn't you can turn the gear by backing it out with a screwdriver into the slot until you get it into position. Firing order is of course 18436572 going clockwise. Start #1 on the cap where the rotor points and plug the wires in accordingly. Cylinders 1,3,5 and 7 are on the drivers side and 2,4,6 and 8 are on the passenger side. Set like this the timing should be close to 0° advanced and will usually get you started. Use your timing light to adjust the timing to spec or 10+° before top dead center. (BTDC) I just noticed that some of the diagrams on the internet show the rotor pointing towards #2 (passenger side front) Boy that can screw you up. I posted this because I don't know how knowledgeable some of you are. This is how I do it.

yes at this point my rotor points at #2
i thought #1 was at the clip notch on the cap wich in my case is near firewall

 

[toolmanmike]

yes at this point my rotor points at #2
i thought #1 was at the clip notch on the cap wich in my case is near firewall

The clip notch isn't a good thing to go by because the distributor housing (and the clips) turn. It should always be where the rotor points. That moves with the cam and crank.

 

[MoparLeo]

I reposted a larger image from the Service Manual to get a better view of the correct indexing of the cap.

 

[lorny]

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 has been the firing order for ever. #1 is always at the front of the engine, drivers side. Wow.
No excuse for not having a service manual. The downloads are free. Here is a diagram to set the distributor and wire the cap to factory specs. Also a link to download a free service manual. It will be your best friend and answer most questions you will ever have.
It was used by the people at the dealer to service your car.
https://mymopar.com/service-manuals/

View attachment 1181419 View attachment 1181420

thx Leo i' ll try to find someone to print 700 pages for me
i'm taking a break from the dodge

 

[Fran Blacker]

thx Leo i' ll try to find someone to print 700 pages for me
i'm taking a break from the dodge

Geez print what you need. It would help with removing your speedo cluster. Buy one from Year One.

 

[lorny]

ok got #1 tdc on compression stroke
mark on damper is right at the top ,about 4 inches after the zero mark
does that mean distributor is out 180

 

[lorny]

Remove distributor hold down.
Lift up distributor.
Rotate your rotor 180*.
Reinstall distributor.
Put hold down on.
Put plug wires in correct location per diagram from above.
Should run if everything else is correct.
Matt B

i got the car running good but timming marks dont work.
#1 @ TDC compression stroke and balancer mark is at the top about 4" ATDC so i guess that means rotar is 180 out
i guess its tine to do as you suggested and rotate 180*

 

[MoparLeo]

I posted the factory info and a picture from the manual. What part is confusing ? Print 700 pages ? What does that mean. It is a download to your computer folder.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Could mean you have a problem with harmonic balancer outer ring moving. It's running good now, wait until turn 180* it won't then.

 

[MoparLeo]

If you have had the distributor out you know that it has a blade on the bottom of the shaft, not gears. The gears are on the oil pump drive. Can only go 2 ways. It will start one way but not the other.
The way to establish the exact location of TDC is to use a piston stop. You can look that up on youtube or just Google it.

 

[Matt B.]

You do need to find top dead center on compression stroke. Using the piston stop as MoparLeo suggested is the best way. I would confirm this, multiple times. Along with checking where the mark on the balancer is in relation to the pointer or zero mark. If off more than approximately 1/16 it would seem to be an issue with the balancer as Fran has indicated. If off I would replace the balancer. That’s just me. Up to you what you want to do.
Matt B.

 

[lorny]

If you have had the distributor out you know that it has a blade on the bottom of the shaft, not gears. The gears are on the oil pump drive. Can only go 2 ways. It will start one way but not the other.
The way to establish the exact location of TDC is to use a piston stop. You can look that up on youtube or just Google it.

ok good to know that distributor only works one way (my 55 ford was 180* out and ran OK)
the car starts and runs good
the pointer is no where near the mark on the balancer(impossible to time with a light)
the balancer mark is 4 to 5" inches after the pointer
the pointer is at 9-10 oclock and the balancer 12 oclock (#1 TDC )

 

[lorny]

I posted the factory info and a picture from the manual. What part is confusing ? Print 700 pages ? What does that mean. It is a download to your computer folder.

View attachment 1189552

i did use your diagram and wiring suggestion to get car running thx
i thought it was you that gave the linc to a free 700 pg shop manual
i printed it and damn near burned the motor in my printer - lol

 

[MoparLeo]

The link was for a free shop manual but you don't print it, you download it to a file...Whenever I do print, I set the printer for both sides. Only use half as much paper that way.
You know, we only know whatever information that you give us. What is the rest of the story.
Did you just get this car ? Was the engine running before and you are just replacing the wires ? What is the story, it is much easier to understand the problem and give better assistance to solve the issue.

 

[lorny]

The link was for a free shop manual but you don't print it, you download it to a file...Whenever I do print, I set the printer for both sides. Only use half as much paper that way.
You know, we only know whatever information that you give us. What is the rest of the story.
Did you just get this car ? Was the engine running before and you are just replacing the wires ? What is the story, it is much easier to understand the problem and give better assistance to solve the issue.

just got the car- engine was idling really bad-don't have any history on the car- rear leaf springs are sacked- frt suspention needs a lot of work-(rubber bushings etc) dual exhaust was butchered and leaking the car has to be completly gone over , but i'm enjoying it.
i had a 66- 440 -318-4dr in 76 when i got married . trip down memory lane ( the car not the marriage)
i LOVE the look of DODGE CORONET 500 but this is not the car i hoped it was, took a chance and didn't do so well
example: the day i bought the car , the back wheel fell off on a major highway ...

 

[lorny]

You do need to find top dead center on compression stroke. Using the piston stop as MoparLeo suggested is the best way. I would confirm this, multiple times. Along with checking where the mark on the balancer is in relation to the pointer or zero mark. If off more than approximately 1/16 it would seem to be an issue with the balancer as Fran has indicated. If off I would replace the balancer. That’s just me. Up to you what you want to do.
Matt B.

Love your Runner had a lime green 71 383 4spd pistal grip- super charged in 78 - sold it to buy a gold coloured fridge and stove to make the wife happy
she ran off, fridge is no longer running and i miss my RR

 

[Matt B.]

Thanks, it needs a lot of work.
Matt B

 

[lorny]

TDC on compression and i put a mark on balancer wich comes out to about 6" before factory mark
when i turn dial on timming light it shows running good at 30-35* advanced
the only thing i haven't done is rotate distributor 180*
has anyone tried rotating and what is procedure
2) i've heard you can lift the gear on oil pump with a magnet and move one tooth ????

 

[RemCharger]

Ok, I have to ask , if it's running good,
Why are you trying to turn the distributor 180 degrees out of time again?

 

[Fran Blacker]

Seems like your outer balancer is moving on inner part. Should be replaced. Agree with Remcharger.