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Poly K-frame isolators install

I replaced the two rear K frame bushings with Poly types and have two for the front. I didn't do the front because the ones already in there look okay, the two rears were about as bad in the OP's picture. I can't say whether it firmed things up, but you do experience more road feel. That may or may not be desirable for everyone. I feel a bit more vibration than before.
 
Citrus1973 said:
I am running Poly Graphite bushings YY1. They have been on the vehicle about two years now and are looking like the day I put them on. Held up very well so far.
Click to expand...

Where did you get them?

All I can find are polyurethane.

I really want the solids, but the only ones left on the market are too pricey for me at this time.

Can it possibly make the front end any harsher than the pre-73 K frame that was bolted to the frame horns with NO rubber?

I LOVED the way all my pre-73 mopars handled. This is the first ISO car I've owned and driven, and it does feel REALLY squishy. Much like a couple buicks I owned many years ago.
 
YY1 said:
Where did you get them?

All I can find are polyurethane.

I really want the solids, but the only ones left on the market are too pricey for me at this time.

Can it possibly make the front end any harsher than the pre-73 K frame that was bolted to the frame horns with NO rubber?

I LOVED the way all my pre-73 mopars handled. This is the first ISO car I've owned and driven, and it does feel REALLY squishy. Much like a couple buicks I owned many years ago.
Click to expand...

If you had read a earlier post I had made you would have seen where I posted to go to Firm Feel Inc. for B Body suspension. I believe this is what you are looking for.

http://www.firmfeel.com/bodymnts_b3.htm
 
If you had read my earlier post- I said the solids were too expensive for my current budget.

I know about firm-feel, but I'd be interested in other manufacturers.

There used to be solidbushings.com, but they are no longer in business, and when they closed up, the FFI price jumped up quite a bit.

I just paid less than 1/2 that price for an unused set of polys AND a set of new in the box shocks, from a member here.

Ease up, man!
 
Thank you for the link Rusty, them are a very very good price indeed!

I had previously installed solid aluminum set from CudaZappa but if I ever have issues with them or have to replace em in any other vehicle I may aquire, I will definately go with the prothane set you have linked to.
 
You bet. And I'll give you another tip. You can pretty much "make" your own polygraphite bushings. All you have to do is coat the contact surfaces with Permatex Anti Seize compound. It's graphite in a paste form and that stuff will NOT wash off and is good to 2000 degrees. I've seen people say not to use it on bushings "it'll eat them up" blah blah blah", but I don't get into science projects. I've simply used it literally for YEARS and have never had a problem or squeak out of poly bushings when I used it.
 
YY1 said:
If you had read my earlier post- I said the solids were too expensive for my current budget.

I know about firm-feel, but I'd be interested in other manufacturers.

There used to be solidbushings.com, but they are no longer in business, and when they closed up, the FFI price jumped up quite a bit.

I just paid less than 1/2 that price for an unused set of polys AND a set of new in the box shocks, from a member here.

Ease up, man!
Click to expand...
Sorry bad day dealing with health issues
 
RustyRatRod said:
You bet. And I'll give you another tip. You can pretty much "make" your own polygraphite bushings. All you have to do is coat the contact surfaces with Permatex Anti Seize compound. It's graphite in a paste form and that stuff will NOT wash off and is good to 2000 degrees. I've seen people say not to use it on bushings "it'll eat them up" blah blah blah", but I don't get into science projects. I've simply used it literally for YEARS and have never had a problem or squeak out of poly bushings when I used it.
Click to expand...

My friend with 1971, 1972 and a 1973 Chargers wants me to make bushings for him? If they work I may try them for my Magnums?!
1062.gif
 
old tired rebel said:
Sorry bad day dealing with health issues
Click to expand...

It happens.

Diabetes here....and I DON"T fit the profile. (6'3" 180# 34" waist)

Insulin before every meal and again before bed.

All good.

Mopar on.
 
Ok I know I'm digging up an old post but I'm getting ready to change my subframe bushings. I just need a clarification on the torsion bar bit. I just need to loosen the adjustment bolt (Under the lower control arm)? then its safe to remove the subframe bolts to gain access tot he bushings? I know I will have to pry and tug to get access to remove whats left of mine and install the new ones. I also get that its not wise to remove all the bolts at once but just loosen them up enough to help get access.
Also does anyone sell the bolts in case of breakage? I have been WD-40 them for a awhile now but just curious for a just in case. Kinda alwasy happens to me.
 
76mopar,
Please keep us updated and post pictures of your progress. I’m interested for my ’76 Fury.
Thanks, John
 
76mopar said:
Ok Will do I should be starting this next week.
Click to expand...

its not the bolts you need to worry about, it is the welded nuts inside the frame rails that snap off if there is excess rust and corrosion. there are little holes in the frame rail that you can shoot penetrating oil into and on top of the bolts where they come through the welded nuts. do this and let it soak. when you go to loosen them , ease into it with a cheater instead of shocking them with an air ratchet or the like . you don't want to break one of those nuts off inside the frame rail
 

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I too have been toying with doing this to my 79 300.The original bushings are still in good shape. One question. I see that the torsion bars attachment to the body has rubber mounts too. Did any of you change out them ?
 
Darter6 said:
I too have been toying with doing this to my 79 300.The original bushings are still in good shape. One question. I see that the torsion bars attachment to the body has rubber mounts too. Did any of you change out them ?
Click to expand...
I did , for sure. mine were dryrotted . I figure while I was in there I might as well do all of it. super easy with all the tension off of the torsion bars. you have to be careful when unbolting them if they are rusted, they will break.
 
What manufacturer did you use ?
 
these for the crossmember
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Energy-Susp...973|Model:Charger&hash=item2c85e76c2c&vxp=mtr
these for the k member
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prothane-Bo...-81-/301019569160?hash=item46162a1c08&vxp=mtr

there are cheaper sets you can use , and different material but I went with those.
also , 73 -79 are all the same. the crossmember bushing sets don't come with the bolts , that's why I say just be careful taking them out as not to snap or strip one out.

here are the rear spring rubber isolators. its a good idea to replace them as well

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Energy-Susp...610-/151356341014?hash=item233d8a7b16&vxp=mtr
 
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