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Ported 906 Heads Good Deal?

67Satty

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Found some complete ported 906 heads
with 2.14, 1.81 valves, supposed to be ready to bolt on, flow 270, backed up by flow sheet, seller will take $600. Does this seem like a good deal?
 
Satty,
I wouldn't spend $600 for those iron heads no matter what they are.
You can buy a pair of 440Source Aluminum heads, complete with valves, springs, etc, etc for $1000 and they flow 290 and are brand new and aluminum.
From INDY Cylinder head you can buy a pair of Edelbrock 440 Performer RPM Aluminum Heads, complete, for $1435 or also from INDY cylinder head you can buy a pair of genuine INDY SEZ Aluminum "LONG VALVE" heads, complete for $1885 or the complete kit for $2095 which includes head gaskets, intake gaskets, pushrods, Indy Valley Cover and Manley Head bolt set.
Save your money, in my opinion, and buy some really good heads, because you will always probably wish you would have saved up some more money and bought aluminum heads afterall.
 
I went through this same thought process a year or so ago. I was on a *tight* budget and went with some 915's that needed minor work. Well, after waffling for another 6 months, I decided to sell them and go for 440 source, as Mr. Gaines mentioned up above.

To me, it all depends on your intent. If you need factory oroginal, go with the 906's because that's more iron head for the $$ than you'll likely find anytime soon. If you don't need factory original or if you're the kind of guy that likes to continually tinker and improve things, go with the 440 source because for a true street car, that's about as much head as you could possibly ever use.

Keep in mind that either way, you'll likely spend a couple hundred bucks having them gone through by a machine shop, so figure that $$ into the price (IMHO).

Dan
 
stealth heads flow around 250cfm out of the box. they don't come close to their rated cfm.
 
My only advice would be to have them checked for cracks before you buy them.
If you're looking for more performance than OE, you're best off to go with with the Edelbrock RPM or 440 Source head.
 
If the seller will agree to get them checked out by a reputable machine shop then go for it. That's a good deal!! Aluminum heads are no doubt better but if you figure that with the stealth or edelbrock heads you are going to have to spend a few bucks tuning them up guides, valve job.. etc... and they still won't flow 270 cfm without a little bit of porting time and that costs money...
 
Not to hijack the thread but How much would a pair of all stock 906 Heads go for? I am thinking on buying a pair and the guy wants 130$ for them.
 
if you buy a set of stealths for $1000, then you need to figure $400-$500 extra to get them closer to 270-280cfm. buy a set of edelbrocks for $1600 and you'll have $2000 in them to get them to the advertised numbers. there's an edelbrock headache rarely mentioned and it's rocker geometry and the need for longer push rods; otherwise no "real" direct bolt-up, another $200+, and if the stealths are copies wouldn't the problem be the same? if alum was what i had to have i'd try to hold out and see what the trick-flows do.

i'm off the alum head merry-go-round. i'm working on an iron head 440 for myself to putt around in now.
 
Not to hijack the thread but How much would a pair of all stock 906 Heads go for? I am thinking on buying a pair and the guy wants 130$ for them.
That would be fair price as long as they aren't cracked & the exhaust seats are still there.
 
If the seller will agree to get them checked out by a reputable machine shop then go for it. That's a good deal!! Aluminum heads are no doubt better but if you figure that with the stealth or edelbrock heads you are going to have to spend a few bucks tuning them up guides, valve job.. etc... and they still won't flow 270 cfm without a little bit of porting time and that costs money...
I have a set of Eddy RPM's that flow the same as a set of max ported 906's that ran mid 10's on a 3300 lb roadrunner......plus the Eddy heads have a better combustion chamber and port config....

Not to hijack the thread but How much would a pair of all stock 906 Heads go for? I am thinking on buying a pair and the guy wants 130$ for them.
Are they ready to bolt on and go? If so, that's fairly cheap imo. Last set of 906's I had that needed to be rebuild sold for 75 bucks.
 
I have a set of Eddy RPM's that flow the same as a set of max ported 906's that ran mid 10's on a 3300 lb roadrunner......plus the Eddy heads have a better combustion chamber and port config....

Are they ready to bolt on and go? If so, that's fairly cheap imo. Last set of 906's I had that needed to be rebuild sold for 75 bucks.
No they have been garage kept for i dont 30 years the guy i am buying them off of is a good friend and i trust he wont rip me off but i just wanted to know if that was a fair deal.
 
I'm not bolting a set of heads onto my motor after they say for 30 years. Memories fade, who knows what was done to those heads.
 
Its really not a bad deal as long as the heads are not cracked. I would say it depends on your use for the car and your pocket of course. Do you know the guy selling the heads ? If you do and you trust them and your car is just a street cruiser then its a good deal if you cant afford to spend $1000 or more for aluminum heads. Every eng I built all my life had Mopar iron heads on them until I built the 440/493 in my car now and I went with EZ heads because I wanted a good flowing head that did not need a ton of porting. I always did my own porting but after hurting my back I cant do any porting anymore. But if you want the most performance and have the money then I would save for a good aluminum head. Otherwise for a nice driving street car its not a bad deal. Good luck to you , Ron
 
Yea I am not going for a 500 HP car here I just have a 66 383 and I don't Want the 516s that were on it Planning just a nice Running 383. I get everyone's point about Aluminum Heads which are great but These Seemed like a good deal Thought I would get some opinions.
 
Yea I am not going for a 500 HP car here I just have a 66 383 and I don't Want the 516s that were on it Planning just a nice Running 383. I get everyone's point about Aluminum Heads which are great but These Seemed like a good deal Thought I would get some opinions.
You may have to rev the 383 a little to get 500hp.
A 383 would need 265cfm intake flow ... theoretically.
The 906s will do it, but the ootb Edelbrocks will do it without any work.
 
the 516 are closed chamber heads, 906 are open, that 383 WILL NOT like the compression drop.
 
Sorry for robbing this thread but you giys gave me some great knowledge thanks.
 
500 hp 383? I would grab a 440 and start there, you will run much better at 500 with less compression and more vac....

440 motors are out there, and you can sell your 383 stuff pretty easy.

the price on a ready to bolt on ported set of 906's could be as high as $1000 depending on if they were used and how the work looks, I don't care how long they sat for, I have parts that have been on the shelf for a long time and still know their exact story.
Figure it this way a set of 906 cores is $150, cleaning and magging $75, comp valve job $200, gasket matching them $100, assembling them $100. That is over $600 right there not counting springs, valves, retainers, locks, etc. AND some guys get $80 an hour to port ci heads, gettting a set of 906's to them numbers can take a couple days, lol.. I know a couple guys that will spend a week doing a set of ci heads, do the match, $600 is a good price...

As for the aluminum head option, I like 440's with cast heads, 906 tend to flow the best, and unless I am shooting for $600hp plus I will stay with stock heads on a chrysler motor, chevy is another story, you can buy aluminum heads for much less than a good set of stock race heads..
 
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