possible bad converter?

[RJ Squirrel]

I just shipped a converter back to Yank for rebuild- have you heard of Pirate Ship? Pirateship.com
Cheap and easy shipping. They might fix it cheap or even free if they open it up and find out it was their fault.

 

[icetech]

I just shipped a converter back to Yank for rebuild- have you heard of Pirate Ship? Pirateship.com
Cheap and easy shipping. They might fix it cheap or even free if they open it up and find out it was their fault.

I have never heard of pirateship.. looks.. legit?

 

[icetech]

BTW.. FTI emailed me and told me to send it in and they will make it right if it's messed up.. will do that after i swap it out, don't want weeks of downtime in the spring. won't hurt to have a spare.

 

[Backrd.Junkyard]

Okay, should be 3924. The plug spark plug heat range isn't an issue. You could try these if you just wanted to see, but I don't think it'd make a difference unless the plugs are not what they're supposed to be.
https://www.amazon.com/CHAMPION-SPA...e&sprefix=champion+11,automotive,4151&sr=1-14
Just curious if you know anyone with a distributor machine that could check your advance rate or if you have a points distributor laying around. I would double check to see if the electronics were retarding when the RPM came up. Maybe even put a points distributor together set up for 18 degrees static and 14 degrees total advance with a ballast resistor and proper coil. I'm thinking that combination should start pulling hard in the top end regardless of how tight the converter is.

 

[icetech]

Okay, should be 3924. The plug spark plug heat range isn't an issue. You could try these if you just wanted to see, but I don't think it'd make a difference unless the plugs are not what they're supposed to be.
https://www.amazon.com/CHAMPION-SPARK-PLUGS-302-TRADITIONAL/dp/B0016KV44E/ref=sr_1_14?crid=3HJOHMXF08LT8&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.WakiPSSpCz8XtbjNDCgLNSjiuRUFxbrCcWrWvZUSjmH_wsL0VLley5mMjbqZ2qcGJnW9idN0ZJpInSs0wwvcdlUieJe2KX4ksYIsU9WeWY_mR272K-reGpsf60ZxJTCI4e3IxGhpmd8C2m1SWhJTyj3HsvvYVGjqTdtBPEA-FwAZzu0AkZYQj2YsneNGYKa-5qeY35NThGJ03lEHml_HHd-QuIHSXy9Ng3owhAHmjIUCSYEwzpn78RIW1f9Q8FTSnJJmiXzPGY6IC-zzRCTahAivBb3MdE1vT_eIkgBt4Dg.3t1Atuy4Oymdk2LiKj0Oe13bHqOn_WrwHxd86-oGV_M&dib_tag=se&keywords=champion+11+spark+plugs&qid=1746555921&s=automotive&sprefix=champion+11,automotive,4151&sr=1-14
Just curious if you know anyone with a distributor machine that could check your advance rate or if you have a points distributor laying around. I would double check to see if the electronics were retarding when the RPM came up. Maybe even put a points distributor together set up for 18 degrees static and 14 degrees total advance with a ballast resistor and proper coil. I'm thinking that combination should start pulling hard in the top end regardless of how tight the converter is.

I will play with that, i'm actually setting up a points dist to carry as a spare in case of a breakdown

 

[icetech]

k.. kinda impressed.. converter already shipped... they had to make it and said it would be a few days.. done same day

 

[RemCharger]

k.. kinda impressed.. converter already shipped... they had to make it and said it would be a few days.. done same day

Ya it doesn't take much to build one . Way back, we would take a case of beer to our converter guy for a freshen up

 

[icetech]

Ya it doesn't take much to build one . Way back, we would take a case of beer to our converter guy for a freshen up

the things seem like black magic to me

 

[Backrd.Junkyard]

I'm curious to see if the pertronix slew rate is way out and pulling 10-20 plus degrees of timing out as the RPM increases. The off brand four pin orange boxes are notorious for that.

 

[icetech]

I'm curious to see if the pertronix slew rate is way out and pulling 10-20 plus degrees of timing out as the RPM increases. The off brand four pin orange boxes are notorious for that.

no box, it's just a electronic pickup.. no timing retard or anything. mechanical advance works fine, i only have a 8* advance plate in it right now though

 

[Backrd.Junkyard]

You may have seen this over on FABO, but if you haven't this will make you second guess electronic ignitions.
Testing the HiRev 7500
Here is a video where he triggers a Mallory CD unit with points and has some some interesting results.... All electronic triggered ignitions have some slew rate where they lose advance, but some are much worse than others.

 

[icetech]

So.. i'm going to mop the garage and get the car on stands and ready to pull the trans tonight.. since i am going to have the valve body out i want to double check some stuff...

in the TF-2 it has you grind the TV valve to .281.. i don't recall grinding that (doesn't mean i didn't.. my memory is seriously screwed) I was doing some research today and saw some people saying don't grind it just use the tv adjustment at the carb to change pressure@throttle %.. not sure how accurate that is.

Second.. my gas pedal is very hard to push down and a lot of that is the tv arm being hard to move backwards, it's smooth. no binding.. just VERY stiff.. wondering if that is normal with the tf-2 or not grinding that valve might do that? or what else to look for..

third.. i don't have kick down, even at WOT with the tv adjusted to be fully pulled at wot. Also no 3-2 KD when slowing for a corner (i think that's a funtion of part throttle KD though which my tans doesn't have?), that part is kinda annoying. It doesn't bother me that much due to my gear but since i'm in there i figured i would double check stuff, just looking for what exactly to look for?

Basically i'm just gonna take the VB apart and go through all the steps again to make sure i didn't miss something. I don't trust myself anymore at this point.

 

[dvw]

So.. i'm going to mop the garage and get the car on stands and ready to pull the trans tonight.. since i am going to have the valve body out i want to double check some stuff...

in the TF-2 it has you grind the TV valve to .281.. i don't recall grinding that (doesn't mean i didn't.. my memory is seriously screwed) I was doing some research today and saw some people saying don't grind it just use the tv adjustment at the carb to change pressure@throttle %.. not sure how accurate that is.

Second.. my gas pedal is very hard to push down and a lot of that is the tv arm being hard to move backwards, it's smooth. no binding.. just VERY stiff.. wondering if that is normal with the tf-2 or not grinding that valve might do that? or what else to look for..

third.. i don't have kick down, even at WOT with the tv adjusted to be fully pulled at wot. Also no 3-2 KD when slowing for a corner (i think that's a funtion of part throttle KD though which my tans doesn't have?), that part is kinda annoying. It doesn't bother me that much due to my gear but since i'm in there i figured i would double check stuff, just looking for what exactly to look for?

Basically i'm just gonna take the VB apart and go through all the steps again to make sure i didn't miss something. I don't trust myself anymore at this point.

Before you take it apart call Trans Go. Very good tech support. Knows more about valve bodies than any of us.
Doug

 

[QuickBpBp]

thanks QBB.. did it have that feeling like it just didn't want to go? not low power but more like it was fighting to move? My trans is fresh and everything in the car is new.. so i dont' think anything got into the TC.. just bad luck on a new one.

I can't say it felt like a drag on it. It was just a dog more like it bogged the motor down meaning didn't feel something "mechanical" was holding it back if that makes sense. But from a roll it ran like a raped ape as the convertor was locked tight. I actually ran a friend of mines car from a roll that ran 11.60's and smoked him with a car that ran a best of 12.30's.

 

[icetech]

I can't say it felt like a drag on it. It was just a dog more like it bogged the motor down meaning didn't feel something "mechanical" was holding it back if that makes sense. But from a roll it ran like a raped ape as the convertor was locked tight. I actually ran a friend of mines car from a roll that ran 11.60's and smoked him with a car that ran a best of 12.30's.

nice

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I'm pretty sure you got a bum converter. It happens, sometimes. I rebuilt a 727 for a customer, and he called to say there was something wrong with it, after he installed it. I went to his place to see for myself what was going on. His problem was almost the opposite of yours, however. He could rev the engine up, and the car would hardly move. At the same time, there was a weird howling noise. I told him that his converter was no good. He said it was a new higher stall piece that he had bought from a local speed shop. He took it out, and the speed shop was good enough to exchange it. The replacement converter worked fine, and he was happy with my transmission rebuild.

had the same thing happen to me, car would barely move until I was way over stall speed. A good converter makes all the difference.

 

[Dave6T4]

So.. i'm going to mop the garage and get the car on stands and ready to pull the trans tonight.. since i am going to have the valve body out i want to double check some stuff...

in the TF-2 it has you grind the TV valve to .281.. i don't recall grinding that (doesn't mean i didn't.. my memory is seriously screwed) I was doing some research today and saw some people saying don't grind it just use the tv adjustment at the carb to change pressure@throttle %.. not sure how accurate that is.

Second.. my gas pedal is very hard to push down and a lot of that is the tv arm being hard to move backwards, it's smooth. no binding.. just VERY stiff.. wondering if that is normal with the tf-2 or not grinding that valve might do that? or what else to look for..

third.. i don't have kick down, even at WOT with the tv adjusted to be fully pulled at wot. Also no 3-2 KD when slowing for a corner (i think that's a funtion of part throttle KD though which my tans doesn't have?), that part is kinda annoying. It doesn't bother me that much due to my gear but since i'm in there i figured i would double check stuff, just looking for what exactly to look for?

Basically i'm just gonna take the VB apart and go through all the steps again to make sure i didn't miss something. I don't trust myself anymore at this point.

Make sure you don't have some of the springs mixed up. Some of them look similar, but with different spring rates. Make sure the K.D. valve sleeve did not get assembled backwards. K.D. lever should not be that hard to move, if assembled correctly. If K.D. arm is not fully returning to rest at stop, pressure is retained in the governor circuit, and transmission will not drop back to FIRST. Make sure the one larger V.B. ball is in its proper channel, and not replaced with one of the smaller ones. If you have an unmolested V.B. handy, take it apart one valve/spring at a time, and compare it to how your modified V.B. is assembled.
Dave

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

OP - PTC is great. I've ordered from them twice and both times they were extremely helpful, quick friendly service and their converter behaved as advertised. Glad to hear you ordered from them.

 

[icetech]

Make sure you don't have some of the springs mixed up. Some of them look similar, but with different spring rates. Make sure the K.D. valve sleeve did not get assembled backwards. K.D. lever should not be that hard to move, if assembled correctly. If K.D. arm is not fully returning to rest at stop, pressure is retained in the governor circuit, and transmission will not drop back to FIRST. Make sure the one larger V.B. ball is in its proper channel, and not replaced with one of the smaller ones. If you have an unmolested V.B. handy, take it apart one valve/spring at a time, and compare it to how your modified V.B. is assembled.
Dave

thanks.. i do have a stock one.. everything works ok. and it does go back to 1st when i come to a stop, just no KD on wot.. which isn't that bad. I think i didn't grind the tv valve and am just gonna double check and check balls/drilled holes in the separator plate.. basically just go through it all again since i have time.

 

[Dave6T4]

For street use, I have never ground that valve down. I set the the clearance between K.D. cam and end of valve with .125" drill bit.