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Power loss

I bought a new blue box from jegs 7500 rpm it said on it, eliminated my problem. Ive actually had this happen twice... when it was goijg bad , I would get maybe a few miles and poof engine would die. Maybe a few hours later it would fire back up but id get about the same distance from home and it would shut down again. I bought the new blue box from jegs it solved my prob.
 
Make sure the orange box has a really good ground. Carefully scrape some paint where the ground makes contact with the firewall. Orange box was my problem. I got a new old stock NAPA chrome box. Works better than ever.
 
Thank you...installed new ecu ...didn't help...I'll remove and scrape and try again.
 
Did you unplug the connectors at the firewall and clean em up? How about the plate coil in the distributor?
 
Is the vac adv connected? If yes, high mileage dists can break the pick up wires [ the two wires that come out of the dist body ]. The wires flex when the VA is used. To test: remove dist cap; lift the two wires out of the slot in the dist body; disconnect the plug & check the resistance. Should be a few hundred ohms. Wiggle the wires while testing to check for open circuit.
 
Untill you know where you have power, and where you don't, it's kind of difficult to figure out what the problem is. You know you're getting power to the ignition switch (car cranks), but don't know if you have power to the main ignition feed (MIF), or how much.
Get a cheap multimeter, about 10-15 bucks and start testing as I outlined before. Once you know where the power ends, the fix should be pretty simple.

Mark
 
Did you unplug the connectors at the firewall and clean em up? How about the plate coil in the distributor?
Thank you for input...I hope to have a positive result within a week...I will be replacing the distributor....even though it's new... evidence points to it being culprit..thx guys
 
Like to hear about final result, when it done. Hope no bumps.
 
Ive had this happen. It was my ignition box going bad.
Anyone out there switched to hei...and had success with it...sounds like a good idea getting rid of ecu ...and ballast resistor...thx guys
 
Anyone out there switched to hei...and had success with it...sounds like a good idea getting rid of ecu ...and ballast resistor...thx guys
I def going to switch my stock style box and ballast resistor out and go with a pertronix flame thrower ll or lll distributer, not sure what the difference between them are and i dont know myself if they will fit. I do know the other HEI do not fit under the hood supposedly.
 
Hello everyone...update on my dead roadrunner... remember it just quit going down the road ...we exhausted the electrical testing ...no luck. Then we decided we better pull distributor cap and crank it...sure enough distributor not spinning...first thought was cam broke or sheared pin...through another thread I found out that cam gear bolt backing out or usage of wrong washer is a real thing...tore it down to timing gear and guess what?...cam sprocket bolt is loose and timing chain is nowhere to be found lol...but my extension magnet pulled it from the murky depths of the oil pan...next up..replace parts. Time it...then compression check with fingers crossed...you experts out there...any chance I get lucky?...just seems very likely to me that in that instant something bent or knocked hole in piston...thanks everyone ..this photo is right after I removed cover

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Hello everyone...update on my dead roadrunner... remember it just quit going down the road ...we exhausted the electrical testing ...no luck. Then we decided we better pull distributor cap and crank it...sure enough distributor not spinning...first thought was cam broke or sheared pin...through another thread I found out that cam gear bolt backing out or usage of wrong washer is a real thing...tore it down to timing gear and guess what?...cam sprocket bolt is loose and timing chain is nowhere to be found lol...but my extension magnet pulled it from the murky depths of the oil pan...next up..replace parts. Time it...then compression check with fingers crossed...you experts out there...any chance I get lucky?...just seems very likely to me that in that instant something bent or knocked hole in piston...thanks everyone ..this photo is right after I removed cover

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Oh man
Hello everyone...update on my dead roadrunner... remember it just quit going down the road ...we exhausted the electrical testing ...no luck. Then we decided we better pull distributor cap and crank it...sure enough distributor not spinning...first thought was cam broke or sheared pin...through another thread I found out that cam gear bolt backing out or usage of wrong washer is a real thing...tore it down to timing gear and guess what?...cam sprocket bolt is loose and timing chain is nowhere to be found lol...but my extension magnet pulled it from the murky depths of the oil pan...next up..replace parts. Time it...then compression check with fingers crossed...you experts out there...any chance I get lucky?...just seems very likely to me that in that instant something bent or knocked hole in piston...thanks everyone ..this photo is right after I removed cover

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Oh man, my educated guess is you have bent valves and smiley faces on the pistons...
 
Oh man, my educated guess is you have bent valves and smiley faces on the pistons...
I was gonna say I sure hope it was an automatic when it died on the run... and then I see a picture of three pedals. Doubt the engine's pretty inside...
 
Yikes!
You should try and boroscope the inside of each chamber.
I would probably just pull the heads off.
 
Back in the day, In my 70 r/t se. I always carried spare points ignition parts in the trunk. And when I converted it to electronic ignition. I ķept all the points ignition parts in the trunk as well. And yup! I never had to call a tow truck or walk home.
 
Any bent push rods they'll tell where to look. Was thinking same thing as dadsbee.
 
Do a cylinder pressure test
 
Thank you everyone...this vehicle is tasking me ...and I shall prevail..likely by dumping loads of money it... compression test first then likely complete teardown
 
pull all the pushrods and check them, if there all straight I'd reassemble and do a leakdown!put a thermostat in it while your at it!were you paying attention t temps. when failure occured, most of the times I've had valvetrain issues it all began with a hot engine!
 
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