Pricing & recommendations for upgrades

[Budnicks]

RC/DH

Bolt-ons, some stuff has been covered already...

Magnumforce Racing, http://www.magnumforceracing.com/products.htm
Pretty much a whole tubular K-member & tubular Control Arms,
with a coil over shock various styles/sizes, singular pieces of full on front & rear end kit...
Big Brakes several different styles/price points to choose from,
from Pro-Touring to just Disc Upgrade,
you could get 2" drop disc spindles too help with geometry & a lower center of gravity,
or just reuse your own, depending on what options you chose,
front steer rack & pinion really nice too,
leaves a ton of room for headers & oil pan choices...

Rear suspension short arm 4 link helps allot just nor a racecar application,
with little to no frame/chassis modifications...

the sell various different shock options,

I'd suggest calling 408-559-6633 talking to Ron Jenkins, if he's available

QA1 Suspension Components , http://www.qa1.net/ , also has a bunch of front end stuff
Tubular K-Member $550 ballpark
Tubular Adj. Upper CA's $265 & up each
Tubular Lower CA's $337 ea. with sway bar mounts if wanted
tons of shock to choose from

Reilley Motorsports Inc. , http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/home.php?cat=262
much like Magnumforce Racing, but square tubing, both front & rear suspensions
Probably the priciest of the after market kits but well liked...

RideTech Suspension Specialists , http://www.ridetech.com/store/musclecars/?subcats=Y&features_hash=V298.V328
Air & Coil over suspensions
About $5000 for a full front & rear kits

Summit Racing sells allot of QA1 stuff cheaper than you can get it direct & with free shipping over $99

SSBC bolt-on front disc conversions on your drum spindles $600-$1500+ depending on options

Dr.Diff for brakes conversions too

Viper Disc conversion too, they were kind of popular

98 Grand Cherokee rear discs, not too bad of a conversion

Not knowing what your plans are, how mild or how wild or how much you want to spend or how stock you plan to keep it, weather you want to retain the torsion bars or have a truly adjustable performance/handling/racing suspension, that will handle like it's on rails, compared to OEM style stock stamp steel components, it really hard to give prices or build costs...

You could always do the typical poly bushing $150ish & proper pins $150ish better ball joints $150-$200-$300, better brakes depending on size & styles $400-$2000+, bigger torsion bars $300, bigger or adj. strut rods $150-$200, bigger front sway bars $150-$200+ & add a rear sway bars $150-$200+ etc., not veer too far from the OEM stamped steel front end stuff, relatively inexpensively, rear XP or Hemi car springs or Eaton's $250-$300, sub-frame connectors from $150-$300...
all bolt on apps, no real fabrication or welding to speak of

There are many other options too...

 

[sleepar]

It will cost minimum $20-30,000 to run through the average mopar replacing the rubber and wearable stuff to freshen it up nice... if you're fussy and have rare options maybe more... a lot more in some cases. I would stay away from willwood and air ride because they take away value on an original R/T car matching # etc.... but if you have to have air ride willwood throw in some 30" rims and a 20,000 watt stereo..... bling bling makes 30- grand look like pocket change...
If you plan on going to shows then do what ever the judges like and follow the guidelines specific to the class it falls into....

 

[benno440]

yeh IMO magnumforce is better quality then all others for mopar gear. top quality stuff and awesome customer service. I always see threads about how magnumforce stuff breaks but I researched into this and it was only 1 person who broke one of there mounts on the magnumforce k member, this was on the sickfish cuda which they completely modified the magnumforce unit so it would sit lower in the chassis, so actually not magnumforce fault at all. and for coilovers qa1 are good but Viking performance are better and cheaper. I just swapped over and so has a lot of companies.

 

[747mopar]

My 2 cents. I'd forget all the fancy K members, willwood brakes, blah, blah and build it to be enjoyable which means one thing OVERDRIVE. Nothing against the tubular K members and big brakes I just think if you rebuild the factory suspension with poly bushings, tubular a arms, stiffer bars, sway bar and all new parts they work really well. As for the brakes I guess i feel that if the brakes can be locked up by hitting the pedal then you can't really stop it anymore than that. I will likely never put EFI on any of my cars for 2 reasons, 1 most dyno tests show the good ol carb outperforms the EFI, 2 I like my old cars because they get me away from that computer crap so why would I put it on haha. Don't get me wrong I like the upgrades especially for the guys putting 5.7s and 6.1s in there cars, I guess if I were going EFI and using an aftermarket K member I'd be putting a 6.1 in as well. To me overdrive is a no brainier, 4:11 gears and 2,000 rpm freeway cruising "now that's something to be happy about".

 

[AMX364]

On my 65 Coronet.
Subframe connectors, Posi added, TF transmission, 2.76 gears, very small or RV cam that I have already, repair and restomod of Factory AC using Sanden compressor, Fast 2.0, modified gas tank, Steel fuel lines with GM quick connects, Front Disc and rear 11 drums. Borgeson steering box upgrade.

I wanted overdrive trans using GM automatic, but if engine is setup for below 3000 rpm range and stiff pulling, it would not be needed. Also already have rebuild kit and all new parts for 727.

End results I am looking for are smooth daily driving in traffic in Texas heat. It is not what you MIGHT be wanting to achive.
Budget is not realistic.

Car was grandfathers and already had 2.76 and TF BB and was known for being able to run above 100 for hours at a time when my uncle was driving it.

 

[kb67mopar]

Judging by your collection and pickyness I would venture a guess that you probably don't want to overly modify a car and prevent it from being easily resold. This being said and knowing some of what you own, if you honestly want to modify this car beyond the normal classic I'd say ditch pretty much everything stock except the body.

Chassis stiffening, modern suspension front and rear (this mean rack and pinion steering, coil overs and a 4 link rear with coil overs and properly engineered to avoid bump steer). Drivetrain I would say go with a small block to avoid weight and build good power. G3 Hemi is going to be the cheapest and easiest way to do this but don't do it with carbs. Use fuel injection, it will start easy, run hot, and be a good cruiser getting good fuel economy. Brakes, always ditch the drums. if you are like me you hate dealing with the springs and dust and.....just do the disks. I did and so far love it but I made my own setup. Price, well none of us are going to hit this nail on the head. You will have to pick what suits your intended driving style, performance goals, and modifications to the overall chassis. You could do this with lots of elbow grease for under 10k or you could pay a guy, buy bolts ons and spend 150k.

to each his own but these are my recommendations. I personally have no tie to nostalgia and care not about cutting up a car to make it my own. So yes I understand many will disagree with me. But in all honesty, can you tell me that your fuel injected daily driver isn't more reliable than your 426 hemi's carbs?

 

[TekHousE]

Talk to Wayne before you do any big spending on brakes.

http://www.theramman.com/

Mopar made 'em right..at times. Just got to get the right parts and everything will bolt up stock! ;)

 

[benno440]

someone mentioned about resale, take a look at a properly built pro touring car they go for no less than 100k. some upward of 200k of course doing all this it would be unwise to do to a numbers matching car. i would find a nice cheap 318 car and pro tour the hell out of it with all the fancy stuff. take a look at those R5 dodge engines 800hp for about 15k and there lightweight, and set it up good and go and enjoy it at the autocross track. take a look at this guys cuda over ono the pro touring forum, its going to be a hell of a car when done.

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/86743-just-another-twin-turbo-Cuda-build?highlight=sccacuda

 

[Budnicks]

Nothing specific yet. I've been on the hunt for a 68 R/T with a/c for 2 years & nothing that suits my picky standards has popped up yet. So, I've a nice non-R/T pops up, I may consider it & want to know what things will cost. Thanks for all the input & advice!

Budget, come on RC/DH your like this guy aren't you ??...
let us know what you "actually plan on doing" for modifications/what you call upgrades

I did a Vintage air in my old 55 F-100 on a 428 SCJ it worked out great, very nice compact system, pretty good fit, that was many moons ago now...
Mopar applications in the aftermarket, there are a few universal types & trunk mount kits that run on vacuum operated switches, Vintage Air, Retro Air, Old Air Products, Resto Mod Air
Classic Auto Air @ http://www.classicautoair.com/?q=68_70_Mopar+B-Body_Air_Conditioning_Mopar_AC.html , has kits specific for Mopars $1479-$1579 for a 68-70 B-Body full kit

 

[Richard Cranium]

Budget, come on RC/DH your like this guy aren't you ??...
let us know what you "actually plan on doing" for modifications/what you call upgrades

There was a Charger that I was interested in, but it sold before I could make up my mind. You snooze, you lose.