Proper prep for rust prevention, new fender splash shields

[Coelacanth]

I just received a pair of front fender rear inner splash shields that I hope to get replaced this spring. The original one on the passenger side was rusted out. I also have the fastener kit.

The splash shields are plain black sheetmetal. What is the recommended prep for installation and rust prevention? I assume just bolting them in as-is isn't the optimal way. Should I rough them up on the wheel side and spray with rocker-guard or POR-15?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

You’ve got the right idea. Apply some type of black epoxy & sand/prime any existing surface rust on your replacements first (if there is any)

 

[Coelacanth]

You’ve got the right idea. Apply some type of black epoxy & sand/prime any existing surface rust on your replacements first (if there is any)

They're new, just black metal with a few minor scuffs and scrapes. I would imagine they need some roughing up prior to rocker-guarding them? Do a quick bead-blast perhaps?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

They're new, just black metal with a few minor scuffs and scrapes. I would imagine they need some roughing up prior to rocker-guarding them? Do a quick bead-blast perhaps?

If you can easily head blast, sure, why not? It will improve adhesion. Definitely solvent wipe them after scuffing/blasting to remove any surface oil before painting. You don’t need to worry about sunlight fading. What is rocker-guarding? Some type of rubberized “under coating”, truck bed liner (polyurea or polyurethane) or epoxy all will work fine.

 

[Coelacanth]

If you can easily head blast, sure, why not? It will improve adhesion. Definitely solvent wipe them after scuffing/blasting to remove any surface oil before painting. You don’t need to worry about sunlight fading. What is rocker-guarding? Some type of rubberized “under coating”, truck bed liner (polyurea or polyurethane) or epoxy all will work fine.

I think rocker-guard is pretty much the same thing as truck bed liner.

 

[493 Mike]

If you can easily head blast, sure, why not? It will improve adhesion. Definitely solvent wipe them after scuffing/blasting to remove any surface oil before painting. You don’t need to worry about sunlight fading. What is rocker-guarding? Some type of rubberized “under coating”, truck bed liner (polyurea or polyurethane) or epoxy all will work fine.

My vote! Apply thick too!
Mike

 

[Canadian1968]

Do not remove the black finish, that is the E-coat. It has protected the metal this long ( since the piece was manufactured ) its just not very thick . If it were me, I would epoxy wait a day and then gravel guard . I did my floor like this 9 years ago...I think the only Knicks and scratches are from me swinging wrenchs and throwing sockets! Hahah

The idea is the gravel guard provides the " rubberized layer" for stones and gravel to bounce off instead of digging into and chipping the paint. Once you break that e coat layer it's all over. The metal now has no protective layer at all and rust can start doing its thing !

 

[Coelacanth]

Thanks, I was thinking that e-coat would need something to rough it up or epoxy or bed liner might not adhere to it well. You could put epoxy directly on the black sheetmetal and it'll bond?

 

[Canadian1968]

Alot of paint lines advertise that their paint primers will stick to ecoat without sanding. I personally still scuff all outside panels or anything that's going to going to take any sort of daily abuse ...I would deffinantly scuff the ecoat with 320. If you burn threw to the bare metal on an edge or other small area, its not the end of the world as long as you put an epoxy or polyurethane primer over top of it.

 

[Bird 426]

Rock guard should be clear, you can paint over it or use it for a top coat. It works. Should be able to get it at a body supply paint store.

 

[RemCharger]

Get the tariff- free stuff!!

 

[Coelacanth]

I believe I have a can of that stuff, Dominion makes good products. DOM16 is the Canadian version of POR-15, but up here, it's significantly less expensive.

 

[Lefty71]

Do not remove the black finish, that is the E-coat. It has protected the metal this long ( since the piece was manufactured ) its just not very thick .

This is very cool, if true. Call me Doubting Thomas, but im just finding it hard to believe the manufacturer went to the trouble. Who made the splash guards?? Link? TIA, hoping my doubts are incorrect actually.

 

[BigFlo]

This is very cool, if true. Call me Doubting Thomas, but im just finding it hard to believe the manufacturer went to the trouble. Who made the splash guards?? Link? TIA, hoping my doubts are incorrect actually.

some manufacturers do provide their sheet metal parts with e-coat. AMD is one of them.

 

[Canadian1968]

This is very cool, if true. Call me Doubting Thomas, but im just finding it hard to believe the manufacturer went to the trouble. Who made the splash guards?? Link? TIA, hoping my doubts are incorrect actually.

Yes absolutely is true. Look at the alternative. Why would a company produce a piece in raw un treated steel? Any inventory you have would just start rust ? ( mind you if kept in a controlled environment not that fast ) but still, now trt and sell a product maybe you hand produced a year 2 ago and it's covered in rust. I don't think that's going to be a great business plan.

Now the floor pans I bought for my 68 charger were not ecoated , but they were oiled , even then still had spots of surface rust.