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[PSA/WARNING] - Centerbores out of spec on new Bendix PRT1132 11.75" disc brake rotors

Rock Auto's reply to my followup. More patronizing bull$hit, but they actually make an effort to give a half-answer to my question about the March 12th date this time around.

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Rock Auto can kiss my fiddle-dee-dee! NEVER AGAIN!

-Kurt

My experience to a tee with RockAuto .... the WORST vender out there!
 
Joe already got a prepaid label to me, so the return of the Bendix rotors shouldn't be an issue - so long as I can get it separated from the rim. Neighbor has a roll-off dumpster at his house now due to construction, and I'm figuring it might work as the frame for my makeshift press to get the old rim out.

In the meantime, the Centric and Power Stop rotors arrived. Same stuff from China, really, but both of the hub centers fit OK on the 15x7" standard rim off the '80s B150. The Power Stop rotors have the smallest difference at the step, and I was rather surprised to see that one of them seemed to be machined a tiny bit off center (0.02" or so), yet seemed to be just a bit better than the Centric (which has a visible surface void on the non-polished area). So frustrating. What can you do?

Centric - 71.22mm:
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Centric - seated OK:
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Power Stop - 71.08mm:
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Power Stop - seated OK:
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-Kurt
 
Short on pictures today, but here's the scoop:

I threw one of the Amazon rotors on the car today just so I could set it down depending on how much trouble the rim-rotor separation would cause.

Because of this, I went to the local tire shop with the black 15x7" to have a junk spare thrown on it to keep the car off the ground. All they had were some P235/75/R15s. And because of the tight fit between the tire and the front fender, I was convinced this combination would rub.

But for whatever reason, I was also blocking out my knowledge of all fat-tired Belvederes etched into my mind from cinema and TV:

The Killer Elite:
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The Stone Killer:
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Kojak:
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CHiPs:
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And when I mounted it (with the wheels cocked to the right to avoid any potential rubbing), I had to see if it would clear.

And it did.

Not to mention that it looks really, really good with the stock-looking B150 steelie rim over the Dippy rims:

1968 Plymouth Belvedere (Satellite) w/P235/75/R15s by cudak888, on Flickr

1968 Plymouth Belvedere (Satellite) w/P235/75/R15s by cudak888, on Flickr

1968 Plymouth Belvedere (Satellite) w/P235/75/R15s by cudak888, on Flickr

1968 Plymouth Belvedere (Satellite) w/P235/75/R15s by cudak888, on Flickr

So all's well that ends well, plus I've got an entirely new look to put on the car. I'm crossing my fingers that there will be some nice '80s 15x7's at the Florida Nats tomorrow.

Incidentally, both of the problem rotors are all packaged up for their trip back to Bendix. Will let you all know how it goes.

-Kurt
 
I guess you changed your mine about post #3?
Well it came out no damage, that's good.
 
I guess you changed your mine about post #3?
Well it came out no damage, that's good.

I figured that it wouldn't hurt to try a couple of taps with a small sledge (it was a 2-pounder) than make another trip out. And out it popped after a few taps.

I had some steel sleeves and rods from the hydraulic press that I used as a surface to slam on. The sleeves were used to prevent the rod from slipping on each hit. Combo worked perfectly.

-Kurt
 
Joe and I have been curious what the actual factory measurement is for the pilot holes on the Mopar rims, so I finally figured out a way to get an accurate measurement (with the help of a neighbor's tool)

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I checked both the black Mopar 15x7" rim off the B150 (note - I could really use 4 more just like this) and two of the Mopar cop rims; one was the one that got stuck, and the other wasn't. The black rim came out to 71.56mm, while both of the police rims were 71.55mm.

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-Kurt
 
The replacement rotors are in from Joe, and they fit perfectly:

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They also carry a completely different part number than the originals - G5311 / G11275W (Not to be confused with PRT5311, which is for a 2002+ Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer) - and the UPC isn't even listed online.

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Can't wait for the weekend. Got the calipers rebuilt and everything's ready to mount up!

-Kurt
 
All's well that ends well - finally buttoned everything up today with the replacements from Bendix. Perfect fit. I quickly shot them with a bit of high-temp black paint before having one of the local shops machine the surface. I didn't have to mask off anything to get a nice look, and the pads have a better chance of breaking in evenly.

F/M/J Disc Brake Swap on '68 B-body by cudak888, on Flickr

FYI: Those drilled rotors that I tried earlier had a completely crap fit with the dust caps. Either way, I had to bash them to make them work. Not that concerned about it.


I also go over the '69 Camaro brake lines I used with this rear-facing F/M/J brake swap and a few other things - like the proper fit of those stupid anti-rattle rubber bands - in the post I made this evening in my main build thread: https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...t-refurb-and-big-fat-engine-swap.96118/page-9

-Kurt
 
Thanks for posting all your info
I plan to do the same swap on my '75 Fury.
So just to clarify, which bendex rotors did you use that worked properly
G11275W?
 
Thanks for posting all your info
I plan to do the same swap on my '75 Fury.
So just to clarify, which bendex rotors did you use that worked properly
G11275W?

They were labeled G11275W? and G5311 on the rotor. Neither part number cross references with ANYTHING out there.

Look for a rotor for a '78 Chrysler Cordoba and you should be fine. Make sure you get 1969 Camaro brake lines if using 1980+ M-body calipers. You can read up on all the nitty gritty of what I went through here in my build thread:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...g-fat-engine-swap.96118/page-9#post-910638402

-Kurt
 
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