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Pulling 383 engine

Did you remove two horizontal bolts. One from the front and one from the rear. I have never experienced what you went through in 50 years of doing this. Maybe pictures of the parts that did not come out with the engine will shed some light on the problem.
 
Installation and removal of the engine is done with the two bolts you first removed. Sometimes when removing you may need to lift the engine a small amount more one side this helps to get it free. I’m not sure why you had trouble removing it by removing the two bolts thats the best way and for sure the best when installing it.
I guess it's possible that torquing the bolt distorted the "ears" of the mount against the mating part and made it more difficult to pull the engine.

Another question: has anyone ever seen these initials (or something like them)? After cleaning the grease and grime off, I found these on the right side of the block. They appear to read "DDBC", although it could be "DDRC"
Just curious what they might mean and if they have been found on other engines. It's hard to tell whether they were put there on top of the orange paint, or before.
Thanks!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC

DDBC (DDRC).JPG
 
It was probably rusted together a bit because it's never been out. That's why they make prybars.
The lettering is the engine plants marking of what size piston rod combo to put in each cyl. A,B,C,D.
 
Not sure why that would be. They were not put together like GM crap where every hole could be different.
 
Did you remove two horizontal bolts. One from the front and one from the rear. I have never experienced what you went through in 50 years of doing this. Maybe pictures of the parts that did not come out with the engine will shed some light on the problem.
Yes, I removed the single bolt on each side that attaches the U-shaped part of the mount to the part with the rubber isolator. With both bolts removed and pulling with the hoist, the rubber isolator on the left side ripped away. I used a crow bar to encourage the left U-shaped part to let go of its mate and it finally came apart without damaging the rubber.
Welcome!

Don’t do it quite like that. Remove all the linkage and the nut in the fender well, then lift the tube upward and the threaded stub will come out of the frame bracket, then pull the tube towards the drivers side to remove it from the ball on the side of the bellhousing.

you will play he’ll removing the ball from the bellhousing with an open end wrench after 53 years. If no damage then just leave in on the bellhousing.

Nice Charger, where did the side markers go?
You know, I took that photo on 5 February 1969, the day I brought the car home from the dealer. And in all the many times I've looked at the picture, I never noticed that the side markers are "missing". They are there, for sure, but I have no idea why they don't show in the photo. The yellow front one could blend with the paint in the sunlight, but the rear red one should show. Strange! This one shows it a little better.

3 Jun 11 - LF (in garage).jpg
 
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