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Question on six pack outer carbs

dan juhasz

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One of the carbs still has its original fixed metering plate in it and it’s stamped 35. I looked it up and it’s a Holley 134-35 part number. The other has this fixed plate and I haven’t been able to determine if it’s the correct equivalent. I googled 134-35 and I’m guessing Holley no longer makes it? Does anyone know how to decipher what’s on this fixed metering plate?

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What are the list numbers of your carbs?
(I'd compare the passages at the bottom of the unknown plate, to the same on the known plate. I'd be tempted to buy a number drill set to use as a small hole gauge, and also to drill holes or clear holes in carbs, as well).
 
What are the list numbers of your carbs?
(I'd compare the passages at the bottom of the unknown plate, to the same on the known plate. I'd be tempted to buy a number drill set to use as a small hole gauge, and also to drill holes or clear holes in carbs, as well).
4393 4394
 
Okay. 69 1/2 440 carbs then. I have the same carbs, but I can't help with my experience. Previous owner drilled my plates out, to an oversize, probably on the Mopar engine book recommendations.
I have a giant download of probably a thousand holley list numbers...... and our carbs are NOT on the list (pun not intended)
 
What are the list numbers of your carbs?
(I'd compare the passages at the bottom of the unknown plate, to the same on the known plate. I'd be tempted to buy a number drill set to use as a small hole gauge, and also to drill holes or clear holes in carbs, as well).
IMO....I've always used the shank of number drills, letter drills and fractional drills to determine metering plate orifice dimensions....a very light slide fit in the orifice. I've switched to the PROMAX plates and the HOLLEY screw in jets because I have stagger jetted the secondary carbs....both front and rear carbs...to provide a more even fuel distribution determined spark plug coloration (either Champion UJ-11G or HO-8A) and exhaust gas temperature readings (using type K thermocouples in factory exhaust manifolds), on a dyno (readings corrected for temperature, barometric pressure, fuel and spark advance)...many years ago.....Exact jetting to be determined by the owner for their application. This is my method....others will do it their way.....just my opinion, of course.....
BOB RENTON
 
IMO....I've always used the shank of number drills, letter drills and fractional drills to determine metering plate orifice dimensions....a very light slide fit in the orifice. I've switched to the PROMAX plates and the HOLLEY screw in jets because I have stagger jetted the secondary carbs....both front and rear carbs...to provide a more even fuel distribution determined spark plug coloration (either Champion UJ-11G or HO-8A) and exhaust gas temperature readings (using type K thermocouples in factory exhaust manifolds), on a dyno (readings corrected for temperature, barometric pressure, fuel and spark advance)...many years ago.....Exact jetting to be determined by the owner for their application. This is my method....others will do it their way.....just my opinion, of course.....
BOB RENTON
When I was still working I had cabinets with multiple numbers of each size of number, letter, and fractional sizes, and I used them as needed (from 80-1 numbers)
I should probably buy myself a number set for home use, I just haven't done it yet.
 
Okay. 69 1/2 440 carbs then. I have the same carbs, but I can't help with my experience. Previous owner drilled my plates out, to an oversize, probably on the Mopar engine book recommendations.
I have a giant download of probably a thousand holley list numbers...... and our carbs are NOT on the list (pun not intended)
I just ordered a number drill set so I can at least check the main sizes. Just want to be sure of location is the 93 the front outboard carb or the rear?
 
Use number drills to figure it out. Pretty sure stock was .089" front carb, .093" for rear. 1970 or later plates won't work with those carbs.
I think I got duped on one of these carbs I bought. Not an expert on authenticity. So when I saw a 4 digit date code that ended in 9 I just assumed 69. But this one carb is just a little too nice to be a 69. How many decades were these reproduced, could be a 79 or 89 or even newer.
Besides the overall condition it had the below fixed metering plate, the outer outboard had the fixed plate with the 45 degree angles at the bottom. This plate is square at the bottom and it was placed in there without the thin support plate that gets sandwiched in there. Does that style metering plate belong in 69 carb?
What frankencarb did I buy here??

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I think I got duped on one of these carbs I bought. Not an expert on authenticity. So when I saw a 4 digit date code that ended in 9 I just assumed 69. But this one carb is just a little too nice to be a 69. How many decades were these reproduced, could be a 79 or 89 or even newer.
Besides the overall condition it had the below fixed metering plate, the outer outboard had the fixed plate with the 45 degree angles at the bottom. This plate is square at the bottom and it was placed in there without the thin support plate that gets sandwiched in there. Does that style metering plate belong in 69 carb?
What frankencarb did I buy here??

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YES......You got duped.....what is the R number on the air horn? Since you've got the carb apart, did someone remove the lead sealing plugs on the throttle plate assembly? What other parts are missing, beside the metering plate divider plate?
BOB RENTON
 
YES......You got duped.....what is the R number on the air horn? Since you've got the carb apart, did someone remove the lead sealing plugs on the throttle plate assembly? What other parts are missing, beside the metering plate divider plate?
BOB RENTON

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YES......You got duped.....what is the R number on the air horn? Since you've got the carb apart, did someone remove the lead sealing plugs on the throttle plate assembly? What other parts are missing, beside the metering plate divider plate?
BOB RENTON
Nothing else missing but I do have to heli coil the 10-32 mount holes for the vacuum chamber. Can you id the carb from the r number I sent you?
 
I am not aware of that list number ever being reproduced That is NOT saying it never happened, I am just not aware if it was.
 
69 carbs used the "rectangle " metering plate like what you have. They should have the larger fuel channels vs the standard narrow channels. They are one year only and later plates won't work due to a lower idle feed hole in the 69 carb body.
 
69 carbs used the "rectangle " metering plate like what you have. They should have the larger fuel channels vs the standard narrow channels. They are one year only and later plates won't work due to a lower idle feed hole in the 69 carb body.
So you feel that plate is correct for the main body?
The other outboard the 4394 had the other style plate, that carb had all the patina of a 50 plus year old carb. So your saying that angled plate is incorrect for the 4394?
 
Nothing else missing but I do have to heli coil the 10-32 mount holes for the vacuum chamber. Can you id the carb from the r number I sent you?
The third pix....the R number is the part number of just the casting. I cannot find the 4393 list number in my Holley information sorry. Must be aftermarket not OEM. You must have gotten the carb for a good price to have that much wrong with it, especially the stripped out vacuum diagram mounting holes....be careful drilling and tapping for the helicoil inserts....not much thread boss area available....use a drill press....carefully.....
BOB RENTON
 
The third pix....the R number is the part number of just the casting. I cannot find the 4393 list number in my Holley information sorry. Must be aftermarket not OEM. You must have gotten the carb for a good price to have that much wrong with it, especially the stripped out vacuum diagram mounting holes....be careful drilling and tapping for the helicoil inserts....not much thread boss area available....use a drill press....carefully.....
BOB RENTON
Sorry Bob, but the 4393 and 4394 are legit correct oem numbers for a 440 Sixpack in 69 (only).
I must have the same list of list numbers (no pun intended) as you, cause neither number is on my list either.
 
Sorry Bob, but the 4393 and 4394 are legit correct oem numbers for a 440 Sixpack in 69 (only).
I must have the same list of list numbers (no pun intended) as you, cause neither number is on my list either.

Mine are 4393s. Made on the 92nd day in 1969. Part of original production run of the A12 carbs. Bought them new from Mancini in 1976. That’s when the folks that worked there were named…..Mancini.
 
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