Quick center section/axles question.. early B-body

[icetech]

k.. so today got good... a friend just dropped off a free 742 housing with 4.57s in it.. which are WAY more than i wanted (was gonna do like 3.55) but.. i'm not gonna say no to it of course I don't highway drive so that's not an issue anyway.. the question is.. 1962 tapered axle rear end with a open carrier, will i need new axles? (i will get some anyway so i don't break something but am just looking to get the car moving for now and plan ahead) and i assume new axles will need newer backing plates due to the different bearing setup (would be greens) compared to 1962?

Thanks much..
and i did search but i have seen answers yes and no to the axles being the right length.. just wanna find out for sure.

P.S. max tire height that can go in a '62 belv without cutting much? 30"?

 

[Outsider]

So if you were closer to the west coast I would offer to trade my 3.9s for your 4.56s, but not really viable with the distance. In any case, if you can tolerate the gear for a while, you should be able to install your new free gears and go.

As for the old style taper axel housing, basically just as strong, just sort of a pain to service. And as for updating, I never found it worth trying to update the old housings, always seemed easier to get a newer similar width housing if you are not narrowing the rear, and frames, and be done with it.

 

[Lefty71]

I've never heard of using Green bearings with a tapered axle set-up.
If you convert to '65 and up semi floating (no tapered ends), then yes you will need different brake backing plates.
Many will say, it's cheaper and easier to just find a complete Bbody 8-3/4 rear from anything '65 and after, especially if you didn't plan to purchase the new axle shafts otherwise.

 

[icetech]

I've never heard of using Green bearings with a tapered axle set-up.
If you convert to '65 and up semi floating (no tapered ends), then yes you will need different brake backing plates.
Many will say, it's cheaper and easier to just find a complete Bbody 8-3/4 rear from anything '65 and after, especially if you didn't plan to purchase the new axle shafts otherwise.

Yeah, my main thing is, someone told me that going from an open carrier to a sure-grip will need different length axles... that's the main thing i was wondering bout.. if i do have to switch axles i will end up with some mosers or something.. don't mind spending money on decent axles.. safety and all that

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Pre 1965 rear ends have different length axles for open diff and sure grip.

 

[Lefty71]

someone told me that going from an open carrier to a sure-grip

The new Sure-Trac II that Dr. Diff sells will retain your original axles. This is what I used in my recent rebuild, retaining the original tapered axles in my '64 housing..... I rebuilt a 68'ish 742 open carrier.

Tapered axle upgrade??


If you do need new axles, because you old ones get damaged or whatever, there are NO NEW TAPERED AXLES ANYWHERE THAT I KNOW OF. Your only choices are used or upgrade, AFAIK.


HTH, Lefty71

 

[33 IMP]

P.S. max tire height that can go in a '62 belv without cutting much? 30"?
[/QUOTE]
I've got a 10.5/28 slick on my 62 savoy, and a 9/30 would fall on it. HOWEVER! My rearend is moved back an inch, both for more tire clearance, and to get it centered in the rear wheelwell better. A 30" tire MIGHT fit with the axle in the stock location. I'd bet against it .
Imo, correct answer for a 62-64 tapered rear is always a 65-67 drum-to-drum swap. Thats what was done to mine.e

 

[icetech]

P.S. max tire height that can go in a '62 belv without cutting much? 30"?

I've got a 10.5/28 slick on my 62 savoy, and a 9/30 would fall on it. HOWEVER! My rearend is moved back an inch, both for more tire clearance, and to get it centered in the rear wheelwell better. A 30" tire MIGHT fit with the axle in the stock location. I'd bet against it .
Imo, correct answer for a 62-64 tapered rear is always a 65-67 drum-to-drum swap. Thats what was done to mine.e
[/QUOTE]
Thanks, i figured 28 would be it, but worth asking And i already have the center section and rear end clean and new brakes and all that.. if it comes to it, i wouls rather buy new axles than find a whole rear end Plus upgrades.. rather just put it off awhile

 

[icetech]

The new Sure-Trac II that Dr. Diff sells will retain your original axles. This is what I used in my recent rebuild, retaining the original tapered axles in my '64 housing..... I rebuilt a 68'ish 742 open carrier.

Tapered axle upgrade??


If you do need new axles, because you old ones get damaged or whatever, there are NO NEW TAPERED AXLES ANYWHERE THAT I KNOW OF. Your only choices are used or upgrade, AFAIK.


HTH, Lefty71

Yeah, i'm not in love with tapered axles, just making sure what will be needed if i switch and if i had to do it now to change that center section.. gonna be a lot heavier under the car then when the rear was out.. almost tempted to just pull the whole rear end since no brake lines or driveshaft yet.. being old sucks.. that pig was damn heavy, didn't seem that bad at 20

 

[old guys rule]

Yeah, i'm not in love with tapered axles, just making sure what will be needed if i switch and if i had to do it now to change that center section.. gonna be a lot heavier under the car then when the rear was out.. almost tempted to just pull the whole rear end since no brake lines or driveshaft yet.. being old sucks.. that pig was damn heavy, didn't seem that bad at 20

The newer axles are already better deal. The old tapered ones can be near impossible to pull in the garage if the counter is not on the road. If it's on the road you can always loosen the actually not and drive around taking a lot of corners to loosen the axle up. I had a 63 axle get bent up all my pullers and the drums still wouldn't come off until I use the cutting torch on them. I agree with the old thing, I couldn't even live a center section now to put it in, that's why I had sons

 

[old guys rule]

The newer axles are already better deal. The old tapered ones can be near impossible to pull in the garage if the counter is not on the road. If it's on the road you can always loosen the actually not and drive around taking a lot of corners to loosen the axle up. I had a 63 axle get bent up all my pullers and the drums still wouldn't come off until I use the cutting torch on them. I agree with the old thing, I couldn't even live a center section now to put it in, that's why I had sons

Thank God for spell check, huh? Even I can write better than that and I even know cursive, one of the few perks of being this old. Enjoy your project anyway, in the end you at least get to drive it. Some of these young kids can't even drive a stick let alone handle the power.

 

[icetech]

The newer axles are already better deal. The old tapered ones can be near impossible to pull in the garage if the counter is not on the road. If it's on the road you can always loosen the actually not and drive around taking a lot of corners to loosen the axle up. I had a 63 axle get bent up all my pullers and the drums still wouldn't come off until I use the cutting torch on them. I agree with the old thing, I couldn't even live a center section now to put it in, that's why I had sons

My drums were on the car since it was new in 62.. bought the proper tool and they came off in a few seconds Will be nice to not deal with that again though.. need to sell that tool

 

[tubalcain]

Yeah, my main thing is, someone told me that going from an open carrier to a sure-grip will need different length axles... that's the main thing i was wondering bout.. if i do have to switch axles i will end up with some mosers or something.. don't mind spending money on decent axles.. safety and all that

When I converted my tapered axle car, (it was 8 years old at the time), I needed 1/8 longer axles. I welded up the ends and ground them down to the correct length. A small tack weld, cool, another tack, and so on. It does not need to be super smooth or concentric. I drove for 6 years 4 speed and slicks, about 40,000 miles, no problem.

 

[icetech]

When I converted my tapered axle car, (it was 8 years old at the time), I needed 1/8 longer axles. I welded up the ends and ground them down to the correct length. A small tack weld, cool, another tack, and so on. It does not need to be super smooth or concentric. I drove for 6 years 4 speed and slicks, about 40,000 miles, no problem.

I ended up ordering new axles from DD.. so issue solved.. i measured the housing end to end and he said these should do. Right now i'm looking at gears... the 4.57s will be fun for about 5 minutes then make me wanna drive into a pole I had 3.91s before and they got annoying also but i hate to give up the acceleration by going to 3.55's or 3.23s.. I only drive 6 miles to work each way and never highway miles... so might play with the 4.57s for a bit anyway