But NONE of the big three back in the day had anything special in regards to the cooling system, a car being sold in Arizona, New Mexico, Texas and the like. It was the same.But it gets MUCH hotter in TEXAS, my junker runs 185ish all day long 108 degree day with the Cold AC on, ECP 2 row radiator & 4000cfm Derale fans & shroud
True, BUT a 512ci 10 sec 4100lb with A/C car is a different story
Some people don’t under stand that but what a lot people encounter is when they install electric fans, especially 2 big fans with alot of amp draw their alternator doesn’t have enough idling amps to keep the fans working properly. Just say if you have rated 3000 cfm spal fans and your alternator is putting out only 12 volts at the battery it’s a good possibility you’re only putting out half that and some people put way too big of a fans on their car also. Alot people are just absolutely clueless when it comes to ways on how to keep a car cool especially when it’s been heavily modded.
In my case, I am likely to always have a mechanical primary cooling fan because of multiple fan motor failures before switching over, and electric fan(s) for additional cooling requirements. When the primary fan is electric and fails, unless your route is unencumbered highway for 99% of the way, an immediate change of plans is mandatory.
Very true, I have a very good alternator set up & a pulse width module fan controller.
I had to eat crow and got schooled. I finally had to go with a 1 wire power master. 165 amp and 100 amp idle. I think my 11” Spal fans have almost 2800 cfm on my BeCool setup and they cool my motor crazy fast. Hooked up to 2 40 amp relays controlled by my Sniper.
I have 2 10" or 11" SPAL pusher fans that work off the same everything that that single 2 speed fan used, but unlike the 3 two-speed fan motors that burned up, the SPALs have been great.
I have puller fans on mine with this shroud, 26”- 1” tube’s radiator. The solid fan shrouds with electric fans can give you trouble. I only run one with the vents as you can see by this design look how much air can flow through your radiator to the motor but I’m not sure about the Mopar fan shroud. I know the stock fan shroud will let a lot of air though to the motor also.
I edited that post...It is a stock 70 fan shroud, and while I have yet to install it, I did test fit an identical one that has a split through the thin circle part.
I don’t know much about the CC radiators.
I bought 2, 1 for the 421 in the GTO and the one for my 440 6bbl in my 70 Roadrunner.
I really like my BeCool Radiator. I payed a little more for it but it is Made in the USA. Im running a stock pulley system also.
Fuel wasn't absolute trash, and neither was the traffic horrendous. Fuel percolation is very real with E10 blends, and there is a reason very few if any carbureted vehicles are on the highway anymore, because owners don't understand how to make them reliable. There is also this idea that cars didn't experience 'vapor lock' or have issues in traffic 'back then', and they absolutely did.
Probably another advantage to what I wound up with, 2 small diameter SPAL pusher fans, where I would think the shorter blades and quality product would keep them from flexing. I also have them set (using the Dakota Digital fan controller) to shut off at any speed above around 55-60 MPH.
The spal fans I’m running, 11” have almost 2800 cfm. Theyll pull 33 amps max at start at but after that they’ll pull 25 while they’re cooling. They absolutely cool my motor at idle super fast. I’m right around 600 hp at 10:7.1 440. Yeah I had to go to a 165 amp 100 amp 1 wire Powermaster to keep my fans working correctly.
I don't know much about your car, but with that increased alternator output, are you also running an adjustable voltage regulator? If not, you may discover some fried gauges in a matter of months if you're running stock gauges. Myself, I only stepped up to a 70A Powermaster alternator and all was fine at first, but then within 6 mo my converted voltmeter gauge as well as dash coolant temp gauge shot up (later confirmed the temp gauge had fried due to excess current - at first I thought I had engine overheating, but an IR temp gun confirmed all was normal). I subsequently installed an adjustable voltage regulator with the small pot on the back and verified voltage at the battery at idle. Found out I was at 16V, so I dialed the VR back down so it read a happy 13.8V and installed a new aftermarket temp gauge and all is good in the hood.
Thanks for the heads up though. I’m running Dakota Digital gauges. No ammeter, built in regulator. No problems so far but I do have the Alternator grounded to the frame as it’s known high voltage can happen if the Alt. is not grounded good and I also have a 4 gauge charge wire going to the battery. I do know that several people have had a few problems with them. I keep a good close eye on my voltage through my Sniper
