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Really???

Look on the radiator core support ahead of the battery tray to find the sales code to match the fender tag. Also look under the trunk weatherstripping on the metal lip. It will be in the area of the gas filler (driver side)

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Awesome, thanks for the info.

So the other differentials would have a more symmetrical cover, still 10 bolts?

Also, is the DANA 60 is the 8-3/4" ring gear? And, what is the quick way to see if someone is being sneaky and they installed a truck DANA 60?
 
Awesome, thanks for the info.

So the other differentials would have a more symmetrical cover, still 10 bolts?

Also, is the DANA 60 is the 8-3/4" ring gear? And, what is the quick way to see if someone is being sneaky and they installed a truck DANA 60?
Look at the spring perches and see if they have been cut and rewelded.
 
An 8 3/4 does not have a rear cover. Center chunk comes out tge front like a ford 9"
 
So the dude doesn't seem to answer his craigslist ad... Oh well.
 
Out of curiosity, with this car having only a warranty block, how sacrilegious would it be to do a color change to black?

Using today's values, let's say it is restored perfectly using the warranty block, GG1 with dark green vinyl top vs. painted black, red interior and red stripe.
 
Out of curiosity, with this car having only a warranty block, how sacrilegious would it be to do a color change to black?

Using today's values, let's say it is restored perfectly using the warranty block, GG1 with dark green vinyl top vs. painted black, red interior and red stripe.
Ma Mopar made every third car green. There is a lot of green cars painted other colors already so it's probably a wash. You need to see a well done gg1 green car in person before you decide. It looks better in person.

But green on green on green is a bit much. Break it up with a white top and seats and i think you have a good looking car that will stand out from the sea of black chargers.

Your money-your car-your call. Not ours.
 
Your money-your car-your call. Not ours.

Oh I get that yeah, just wondering if it has a big impact on ultimate value, specifically in this case with the car already missing it's #'s block.

Just wondering what Mopar guys think, as I took some heat for not painting my #'s 66 SS Chevelle the original color from some Chevelle purists. There probably would be a hit to the value at the auction block due to the color choice, if it were ever to hit the auction block, which is not in the plans.

Gotta wonder why so many cars back then were green, GM did the same thing.
 
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Finally got to talk to the seller, sounds like he is super firm on the price.

The car is missing the radiator, sun visors, front valance and inside door top trim pieces. Not sure if any of those are impossible to find.
 
this one just went several days ago on ebay, if the guy gets his money is the next question.
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another 60 g's and 2000 hrs. of work and you'll have a nice car.
 
While I'm no expert overall I feel his $ is in the correct range. These cars are in high demand and getting tougher to find. When I was looking for my Charger I saw many project cars going into the $25K range. Ma Mopar produced less cars so that also drives $ up.

IF you were to buy this car I'd expect you'd put at least $30K into it and perhaps 2 years min working on it, depending on how much time you work on it.
 
While I'm no expert overall I feel his $ is in the correct range. These cars are in high demand and getting tougher to find. When I was looking for my Charger I saw many project cars going into the $25K range. Ma Mopar produced less cars so that also drives $ up.

IF you were to buy this car I'd expect you'd put at least $30K into it and perhaps 2 years min working on it, depending on how much time you work on it.

I figure it needs ~$8k worth of new sheet metal, maybe $10k. The paint and body is at least $15k for the type of finish I require. Drivetrain is restoring what is there, so who knows, could be $3k-$5k.

Interior is where I am fuzzy on the numbers. I bet a full dash restoration is in the $1000's, just don't know how many thousands.

I can do all the work myself except for machine shop work on the engine if required, and the body and paint.

I have a body rotisserie and would do all the panel replacement on my own time, but it looks like I'd have to build a body jig for panel alignment.

Take all those numbers and multiply by at least 1.5.

I know what I'd be getting into if to look at the link in my signature. It would be a long term project for me, but it's what I find most enjoyable about this hobby. I enjoy the work more than the driving, if that isn't too weird...
 
Times have certainly changed since I started with these cars 30 years ago. The $5k rusty and grilled well done Charger that Dave posted a link - that thing is WASTED!
 
Times have certainly changed since I started with these cars 30 years ago. The $5k rusty and grilled well done Charger that Dave posted a link - that thing is WASTED!

Yep, I remember when I was in college 20+ years ago looking at 68/69 Charger R/T's, wanted one badly, was paying my own way through school so it just wasn't possible. The seller I'm talking to bought this car around that time, he probably only paid ~$1500 for it I bet.

This happens all the time, but you just never know which cars will be the high dollar cars.

TV auctions have also made this hobby very difficult.

I bought my #'s 66 SS396 in 1998 for $7k. If I was looking for a project 66 SS396 in that same condition these days, I'd be looking at a ~$20k+ car before restoration. It's crazy, but the market is what it is...
 
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Finally got to talk to the seller, sounds like he is super firm on the price.

Gotta wonder why so many cars back then were green, GM did the same thing.

Out of curiosity, with this car having only a warranty block, how sacrilegious would it be to do a color change to black?
His ad stated "OBO" and you couldn't get a hold of him, so sounds like he is getting lots of calls at $16K, making him feel he'll get a sale at that.

Lived through green. Green wallpaper, green carpet, avocado appliances . . . . quintessential 70s. In defense of green, GG1 looks blackish under certain lighting. It's not as "olivey" as 66-1, which IIRC came to be EF8 in 69.

You'll never get matching# prices, but a true warranty block all else equal is next best thing, since guessing over 1/3 of all big blocks have NOMs and replacement trannys. A full body/gut color change probably would mean (of course its always speculation) a resale to a smaller buying pool looking to just drive, which that price range hovers waaaay lower since they don't care about purity and investment. So a full-on #1 resto puts you in the prices only purists/investers are willing to fork over.

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I think I'd need to see this green in person, pictures on the net are maybe not doing it justice, they certainly aren't doing it for me.
 
Yes not to far off on his price it's a 68 rt 4 speed car ! I'd say $14-15k is fair!
 
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