rear axle upgrade

[Bumper]

I have a 62 Polara with the original axle that I want to upgrade, stock open drive centre, taper shafts and 10"brakes. Being here in the UK parts arent that easy to come by, I could go all new at a cost, another thought is......can I put later style shafts and say 11"brakes in my casing? I know a guy in the US who has a LSD centre that will fit which could be shipped over in a vehicle i am buying from him, brakes, well someone on here is looking into for me and shafts i can get in UK. If this idea isnt possible then i have options over here but thats looking expensive .
Appreciate some advice here,
Thanks,
Jerry.

 

[Yatzee]

Why not buy a Ford 8.8 or 9 inch complete and just mount it under the car. Purchased right it'll be cheap ( lot's of 'em ) and come with disks and all. They're tough, easy to mount and have a great posi out back. May have to move the perches but the width should be the same.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Hello Mate, If you have a 8-3/4" rear end (no bolts visible on the back of the rear end when viewed from behind the car), then yes, you can definitely do the upgrades you want relatively cheap. Here's some information that will help.

http://www.moparfins.com/Repairs/8-3-4_Rebuilding/Information_on_Mopar_Rears.htm

I believe all you need is the "center section" (also known as "chunk" or "pumpkin") from a posi-traction 8-3/4" rear end and you will have posi-traction. For the 11" rear drums, you will need what are called "backing plates" for 11" drums and the associated brake hardware. All of this will bolt up to your existing rear end.

 

[Yatzee]

Show me a used and questionable 8 3/4 posi that's below $500 US and I'll show you a Charger below $200 US. Mopar stuff is very expensive, excessively so and by time you rebuild a used diff from axle to axle and then add proper outer bearings and either a new disk kit or even drums and brakes, your up there at $1500 plus. I love my Mopar but I don't want to refinance my house for one piece at a time. Unless your a purist, there are always other options out there to get your car to run just the way you want without breaking the bank. I bought a complete posi 8.8 out of a 2002 Sport Track for $125, had the perches relocated properly for $100, upgraded the rear yoke on the drive shaft for $150 and threw it in. That was 2 1/2 years ago and never had a problem since. Even got and used the E-brake cables that came with it to actuated the disk brake parking system. I ran the numbers and to do a Mopar properly was $1650. I'm sure a fool and his money are soon parted.

 

[Bumper]

Well it seems questionable that later shafts will work in my original axle, I have looked at other axles for sale on here but all too wide. I prefer to keep my vehicle mainly Mopar so I think I will keep looking at options here in Blighty
Thanks fo all replies

 

[Moparsmitty]

Lots of good info in this thread.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...2-8-3-4-axle-chart-the-good-one-Sticky-please
The later flanged axles won't work in an early tapered axle 8 3/4. If you must change the rear end the best solution is to find a 65 or later complete rear end that fits the car and swap the whole thing. Not cheap or easy to find one that has the perfect dimensions for a swap without modifications. There's nothing really wrong with the older tapered axle rears. I've been running them for years and other than the pain of removing the hubs and the scarcity of brake drums they are strong and reliable.

 

[Glenwood]

just changing the pumpkin is the most cost effective way. Leaving the original axles, the hubs can be removed and left installed on the axle shafts and upgrade the drums to a type that can be slipped off without taking the hubs off...works well on mine.
Tough to find a good deal on a suregrip center section but they come available once in a while. I managed to find a complete B body 8-3/4 SG with new bearings for a reasonable price. Gears are new but too low for my 64. I scored a set of 3.55 for the 489 and will try to sell the 4.88s when I swap them.