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Rear Diff Pinion bearing change

Macdon221

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Good Day All,

I am a learner…would rather try to learn something and get wrong 4 times before getting it right rather than just “get someone to do it”.

Besides the FSM that I have…any other good “How to Videos/step by step” or stickys for dismantling and changing the pinion bearings/setting spacers etc. I have all the parts from Dr. Diff. It’s a ‘741 case with a sure grip. I have done the clutches before but would like to go a little deeper. Mostly to learn. I have plenty of info on setting the backlash and what the correct gear meshing looking like…but more looking for removing/replacing the bearing.

Thanks to all!
 
741 has a shimmed bearing so setup is locked in... If your re-using the gears DO NOT change the pinion depth, Do Not change the bearing preload & Do Not change the backlash.... Since the pinion depth & pinion preload are set with shims just re-use the shims... Mark the caps for location & how the threaded adjusters are set....Measure the backlash coming apart and going back together...

Removing bearing races the right way is done with a puller that clamps the race to the cone so the bearing rollers transfer the pulling force from the outside to the inside... Most DIYers don't have the tools to accomplish this so cutting the bearing off is common... Tricks to this, I like to use a Dremel with a small cut-off wheel, DO NOT cut all the way through the bearing... Cut maybe 60-75% of the way through then use a chisel wedged into the cut.. Smacking the chisel with a hammer will fracture the race & it'll slide off easily...

If you change the pinion depth or backlash because the pattern didn't look right you will induce a gear mesh problem (Read gear noise)

New gears I chase a pattern, old gears if they were quiet before they'll run in the same configuration... If they were noisy before you can adjust all you want, they are gonna make noise....
 
Just to add a safety note to 1 wild rt, safety glasses and a couple shop rags once the chisel is located in the cut groove to protect from shrapnel, doesn’t always happen but if a piece fractures off it can get dangerous.
 
Thx guys,

here is a pic of the pinion that still has the factory markings. Think it says -1 and .34. I remember a while back seeing a video on what the markings meant. I think it was in one on the old Chrysler tech videos from maybe 69-71.

B730C57A-4F10-44F1-A120-AE249C1907D5.jpeg
 
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