'73bird
Well-Known Member
How does one remove the front bolts to get the leaf springs loose
So there is a hanger on the front of the leaf springs?Take the hanger off as well. 4 bolts on the front side of it.
View attachment 360240
Sorry for hijacking this thread but seems related. I currently have mine off (should have loosed the front eye bolt first)
Anyways the manual and the bushing suppliers cite an oval front eye bush. Mines soaking in penetrating fluid now but looks to me to be a round bush. Any come across this.
The bushings are round. Yes, a lot easier to remove the nuts off the studs for the forward spring perch hanger. Remember when putting it all back together, those nuts are torqued, just FYI
Yes mine are round but the replacement ones for 73/74 are listed as oval like in image. And the manual shows an image of an oval one.
View attachment 360263
The oval ones were on late 73 cars and all 74.
I would order the new springs from Springs and Things, they have a great price and they are a matched set for your car, they can also do a 1 inch raise if you like. I had my rear springs with rubber bushings already installed, they are perfect and everything was shipped quick, I re-used my front hangers and of course installed new u bolts, front eye bolts nuts original type and new rear shackle hangers bolts and rubber bushings. the ride is so much better since over 150k miles the front bushings did not even rotate! they were so rusted tight. the height is perfect, after filling the tank with gas they held up the car. I did install the rally charger shock the rear with the coil over, they will raise the car 1 inch in the rear and keep the height with two people in the back seat full tank of gas and only drop to about 1 inch lower. Shocks are Monroe about 75.00 for the pair form Advance Auto. I re-used the iso clamp rubber for the rear springs, they were like new, so I did not go with the poly clamps, new axel u bolts and nuts, make sure you tighten to the 45 ft lbs as stated in the shop manual, they will torque to the 45 lbs and stop incredible, of course use the original locking type nuts. they are designed to lock and stop as specified, use a Sawz All to cut off your rusted old u-bolts, its much easier. good luck hope this helps.
Where you have to be careful on the 74s is with the spring hangers. The springs with the oval ends are about 3/4" shorter than the springs with the round ends, and the hangers are a bit longer to account for that. This fact made my life Hell when I was switching to Super Stock springs as the Mopar Perfomance hangers do not account for this. I ended up having to buy 68-70 hangers and drilling new holes in them. It looks like whoever swapped the older springs on to your car also swapped the hangers, so you should be okay with 72 springs.Mines a 74. Though who know what was done to it over the years.
Can I order a 72 Spring bush kit is it the same. the 72 wouldn't have spring isolators etc is the rest the same?
Where you have to be careful on the 74s is with the spring hangers. The springs with the oval ends are about 3/4" shorter than the springs with the round ends, and the hangers are a bit longer to account for that. This fact made my life Hell when I was switching to Super Stock springs as the Mopar Perfomance hangers do not account for this. I ended up having to buy 68-70 hangers and drilling new holes in them. It looks like whoever swapped the older springs on to your car also swapped the hangers, so you should be okay with 72 springs.
The 72 won't have spring isolators, but you need to look at the shock plates on the car. The ones for non-isolated cars have a small hole in the center. The isolated ones have a hole a bit over an inch wide to accommodate the rubber donut on the top of the isolator. If you have the isolated plates, you'll need to weld in a washer to close up the hole.