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rear universal for a 69 charger with 8 3/4 sure grip

Nathan Barry

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New Brunswick , Canada
What are all you guys running for a rear universal joint with a 8 3/4 suregrip rear end ? .. I have sheared 2 universal joints on the differential end so far this year. The car is equipped with a 500 stroker running 460 HP and 570 ft/lbs and a 727 auto . I want to get something heavy duty so I dont have to worry about it when I hop on the throttle . I have added pictures of the u joint I was running and the damage , also a pic of the car for ride height

52A0847C-601E-4208-A7DD-3C810832CE1D.jpeg 9F5A15ED-084C-4A75-ABD7-ED93E722EAA9.jpeg
 
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What u-joint are you running 7290 or 7260? Are you running a Spicer joint.
 
I have Lakewood 7290s w/o the grease fitting and they have held up for a long time with spirited use...
My car doesn't hook though.
Mine sounds similar to your set up:
8 3/4, 3.23, 727 & 550hp/630tq stroker
 
Have you altered the ride height or rear suspension? Tells us more about this car. Seems like you have a Pinion angle problem to have this happen twice.
 
I have Lakewood 7290s w/o the grease fitting and they have held up for a long time with spirited use...
My car doesn't hook though.
Mine sounds similar to your set up:
8 3/4, 3.23, 727 & 550hp/630tq stroker
Is your U-joint the LW chrome Moly? Guy complained on Summit his was made by nepco, a LW vendor. Don't anything about Nepco can't good or bad.
 
I'm running the Spicer 1350's on all my cars. Still use a driveshaft loop for insurance,
 
Ideally it’s a good idea to pull the 727 and inspect the sprag after a driveline failure occurs too....
 
What u-joint are you running 7290 or 7260? Are you running a Spicer joint.
I’m thinking I want to go with spicer due to a couple bad reviews of the lake wood ones not actually being correct upon arrival , do you have a part number for spicer 7290 as there’s a couple listed
 
I have Lakewood 7290s w/o the grease fitting and they have held up for a long time with spirited use...
My car doesn't hook though.
Mine sounds similar to your set up:
8 3/4, 3.23, 727 & 550hp/630tq stroker
My car hooks up well . I’m looking to update my engine with aluminum heads , what’s are you running ?
 
Got this number from Denny's Driveshaft $15 5-811X non-greasable.
 
1-Car body might be sprung out of alignment (or) Possible causes of problems relating to the driveshaft when, the driveshaft rpm will be up and U joint drops the shaft....2- How long the shaft ... 3-The most basic causes of problems in a driveshaft come from the shaft being bent or out of balance.
just a thought.....
Sonnny
 
My car hooks up well . I’m looking to update my engine with aluminum heads , what’s are you running ?
I have mildly worked ProMaxx heads.
Any aluminum head will most likely help you if you want more power.
Are your numbers at the crank or wheel?
I don't race & don't want to 'hook' = broken parts.
Just a FUN, reliable car.
 
Is your U-joint the LW chrome Moly? Guy complained on Summit his was made by nepco, a LW vendor. Don't anything about Nepco can't good or bad.
I think they are the CM. I read reviews & got what I hoped were good ones & available. A bit pricey I think, but I like to get as good a part as I can afford.
Buy once-cry once:thumbsup:
 
U-joints with the grease zerks are usually weaker than solid ones. Solid means more steel in the unit itself.
 
When using a u-joint with a grease zerk, the joint should be installed so the drilled hole is under compression
 
do you have a pinion snubber on the car? The rear axle may be torqueing/twisting up to much under acceleration and breaking the ujoint that way. I have had a couple of 500 inch motors in HP street cars and have never broken a joint...just be sure you have the bigger of the two u-joints mopar used, and get one with out grease fittings.
 
I have mildly worked ProMaxx heads.
Any aluminum head will most likely help you if you want more power.
Are your numbers at the crank or wheel?
I don't race & don't want to 'hook' = broken parts.
Just a FUN, reliable car.

I have looked into promaxx shocker heads but they are back ordered for months , will most likely go with edelbrock e street heads . my numbers are from the dyno .
 
do you have a pinion snubber on the car? The rear axle may be torqueing/twisting up to much under acceleration and breaking the ujoint that way. I have had a couple of 500 inch motors in HP street cars and have never broken a joint...just be sure you have the bigger of the two u-joints mopar used, and get one with out grease fittings.
yes i have a pinion snubber on the car , i went ahead and replaced the u joint today with a spicer 7290
 
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