Don't forget the oil pan cut out. When you can get the pan off with a straight extension and socket in less than 30 minutes you will be a happy camper.
Doug
Rebuilding LemonWedge.
- Thread starter LemonWedge
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Doug
LemonWedge
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Hoping I can find a halfway decent set of wheelwell lip moldings. Repops are available on eBay, I’m hoping I don’t have to cough up $500+ for them though. If you have a line on a set, please let me know.
WTB - WTB 67 Plymouth Belvedere wheelwell lip trim
WTB - WTB 67 Plymouth Belvedere wheelwell lip trim
LemonWedge
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Continuing work on the K-member.
1. Rough cut with the plasma cutter
2 & 3. Cleaned up & straightened with the grinder; exposing the seam.
4 & 5. Welded up.
This thing must’ve been in a dirt-track car before I got it. I bet I’ve taken 3 lbs of dirt & grime out of it.
1. Rough cut with the plasma cutter
2 & 3. Cleaned up & straightened with the grinder; exposing the seam.
4 & 5. Welded up.
This thing must’ve been in a dirt-track car before I got it. I bet I’ve taken 3 lbs of dirt & grime out of it.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Probably going to call it good with the stock shape, Doug. Spent some time looking at it, and with the contoured factory cutouts @ the bottom, I’m just not sure my fabrication skills or tooling are up to re-shaping this thing. Goal was to trim a few lbs. I’ve accomplished that.
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Makes oil pan removal a snap. It's lighter. It's really easy. You can do it. Start with a hole saw. Drill thru two holes for the inner corners. Then make the three cuts that connect the holes. Now you have a nice U shaped cutout. Bend two L shaped pieces. I used 1/8" material. Bend them over deep socket in the vice that creates the correct radius to fit the previously drilled corner hole. Make them slightly oversize in width and length. Making two pieces keeps you from having to make the piece the perfect length to fit the opening. The only gap that needs to be fitted now is where the two L pieces meet in the center. Trim those ends until they but in the middle of the opening. They can hang over the bottom, top, and ends. Tack weld the pieces in the hole. Trim off the excess around the edges. Finish weld. I filled the holes in the bottom openings afterwards. The fillers in the bottom holes are just sheet metal. But that was just done for looks. Done more than a few K frames for others that the bottom openings are still left open. My sons is like that. Actually did his in the car.
Doug
When I was working on the 70 unit for my 65, I'd already had it tanked twice before working it over. As I was welding away on it, dang thing still had grease etc coming out with the heat from welding.
fullmetaljacket
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Good thorough cleaning with degreaser, dishwashing liquid and water and then finally with Alcohol will get that pup ready for the heat in the kitchen.
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Looks pretty good
The tanking was Cal spec stuff. Ended up whipping out the hot wrench to burn out the remains. End of that issue!
LemonWedge
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K-frame final product. We lost 10.4 lbs here, compared to the original K-frame. 39 lbs vs 28.6 lbs. I decided to drill some holes in the topside. Went through (2) hole saw blades without a hole developed, before I finally fired up the plasma cutter and went after it freehand. Turned out pretty good.
Of course we need to add in the weight of the motorplate, but also subtract the weight of the steel motor mounts. In the end, We’ll probably lose 5 lbs here.
Skimmed it in Bondo. Filled and shaped the dent in the driver side as best as I could. Filled some horrendous looking factory welds. And put a coat of primer on it.
Of course we need to add in the weight of the motorplate, but also subtract the weight of the steel motor mounts. In the end, We’ll probably lose 5 lbs here.
Skimmed it in Bondo. Filled and shaped the dent in the driver side as best as I could. Filled some horrendous looking factory welds. And put a coat of primer on it.
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fullmetaljacket
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That looks amazing.
Even a 5 lb loss that low on the front end is an advantage. I didn't go as far as you did on the K in that just the motor mounts were shaved off. It was a nice exchange between the weight of the K motor mount brackets, rubber insulators, fastener hardware and an aluminum plate . I kept the factory pinch welded shelves simply because I didn't think about it until it was too late and it was back in the car. When I saw DVW's masterpiece up close and personal, I was like................. Damm, why didn't I think of that.
As you well know, the plate will gain you more chassis response while acting as an extra support plate just above the crank centerline, along with less weight. Win, Win.
Can't wait to see the end results.
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Nice job. I'm sure this is just the tip of the iceberg on nice stuff we will see for this car.
Doug
Doug
fullmetaljacket
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Like that song goes: "The Second Time Around, Make it better than the first time"
LemonWedge
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I’m happy with where it’s at. Lots of work ahead of me, need to keep moving along.
LemonWedge
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Still waiting on my body guy to get some pulls made so we can get after the front clip surgery.
In the meantime, I turned my weight saving attention the the rear bumper brackets. The cuts are pretty rough, again freehanded with the plasma cutter. Got the flap wheel where I could, before knocking the rust off and hitting with a coat of satin black. They’ll never be seen; heck…. I couldn’t even have told you what they looked like until pulling them.
Weighed 5.9 lbs each before I started. Now coming in at 3.4 lbs each. That’s a 5-lb savings in addition to the glass bumper they’ll be holding up.
In the meantime, I turned my weight saving attention the the rear bumper brackets. The cuts are pretty rough, again freehanded with the plasma cutter. Got the flap wheel where I could, before knocking the rust off and hitting with a coat of satin black. They’ll never be seen; heck…. I couldn’t even have told you what they looked like until pulling them.
Weighed 5.9 lbs each before I started. Now coming in at 3.4 lbs each. That’s a 5-lb savings in addition to the glass bumper they’ll be holding up.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
I scored a full driver quality wheelwell trim set today. There’s a couple of dings in the rears, but nothing too bad. They should polish up nicely. They were local to me, and best of all; nearly half the price of a new repop set.
So now I have all the correct Belvedere trim. Still haven’t decided if I’ll go full on with GTX badging? Put the Satellite badging back on it with GTX trim cues for a cleaner more muscular looking Satellite? Or just say “Badges?, We need no stinking Badges!” Lol.
The guy I got them from has a few Mopars including a 66 Hemi Satellite; a 64 Dodge Polara Hardtop, and this 67 Belvedere race car which happens to currently be for sale. Pretty good looking car. Body is super solid. 440 with some nice parts and race-prepped 906 heads. If you know of anybody looking for a bracket or Stock / SS car, this may be worth looking at.
So now I have all the correct Belvedere trim. Still haven’t decided if I’ll go full on with GTX badging? Put the Satellite badging back on it with GTX trim cues for a cleaner more muscular looking Satellite? Or just say “Badges?, We need no stinking Badges!” Lol.
The guy I got them from has a few Mopars including a 66 Hemi Satellite; a 64 Dodge Polara Hardtop, and this 67 Belvedere race car which happens to currently be for sale. Pretty good looking car. Body is super solid. 440 with some nice parts and race-prepped 906 heads. If you know of anybody looking for a bracket or Stock / SS car, this may be worth looking at.
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6PKRTSE
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Nice 67 Belvedere. How much is he asking?
LemonWedge
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Price is currently listed at $26,500-. I got the feeling he’s willing to deal.
Runcharger
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A lot of what makes you car standout is that it is a Satellite IMO.
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