Rebuilding trans. Stall recommendations?

[68Satellite440]

Hey guys,

Im getting my big block 727 rebuilt. I was having problems with reverse lately and having severe cork gasket leak. I finally changed gasket and new fluid. Reverse has apparently burned up. Wont even try to go back, but 1-3 forwards gears seem good.

So with plans in the future of adding a Gear Vendor Overdrive, I decided i might as well have the whole thing gone thru and maybe even add a shift kit? Not sure if thats even needed or would be helpful.

The shop I’ve selected to do it recommends getting a new stall converter while having it apart. I however have no knowledge of how to select what stall i need and my understanding is I currently have the factory 11” HP converter. Im wanting to get something that will work currently and with my planned future modifications. Its currently very slow and hardly breaks the tires loose.

The current specs on my car is:
‘68 Sport Satellite, formerly was a 318 car, got pulled.
‘68 HP stamped motor, factory 440 and trans out of donor car.
Edelbrock AVS2 800cfm
Factory 906 heads
Factory Intake manifold
Long tube headers
8 3/4 741 case with 2.76 (replacing with 3.55 soon and sure-grip)
Factory HP cam is 268/284 with .450/.458 lift.
Planning on changing to slightly larger Lunati Voodoo flat tap cam in the future not sure whats best for a street car, feel free to chime in.
700- .454/.454 lift, power band is
0-5000rpm
701- .454/475 lift, 1000-5500rpm
702- .475/.494 lift, 1400-5800rpm

Im not sure what other info is needed to select Stall, and im sure being in the middle of upgrading the car makes it hard to find something that works for current use and future plans. But if anyone has any knowledge or advice, please help. Thanks, -Pat

 

[snakeoil24]

Make your life easier call Frank Lupo at Dynamic Converter in Newark Delaware. This guy has beenbuilding converters a long time and will steer you right

 

[topside]

Duration on those cams @ .050 ? Tire diameter ?
Usage ? mostly street, sounds like.
Figure out cam 1st, then converter.
I wouldn't go wild with either, as with the GV activatd, the gearing will be pretty tall; might go with 3.91s depending on where the car spends the most time.
The 741 is not the best case for performance usage or if slicks are in the plan; 742 has stronger pinion, 489 is good with a crush sleeve eliminator (Dr. Diff).
If the car still has 7260 U-joints, that's likely to be the weak link for performance use.

 

[Don Frelier]

I would recommend the 702 cam.

 

[68Satellite440]

Im guessing the 2-3 former owners never thought to change filter and fluid, so guess rebuild is inevitable.
reverse is now a extra neutral. ‍♂️

 

[66Satellite47]

I experienced the lack of reverse in 1973. I was very careful to where I parked for a couple weeks. Asked a buddy to rebuild my 727, he said no, but I'll show you how. Got the FSM and tried to really understand how things worked. The rear drum was burned in halve. Too much manual downshifting with the slapstick. I've been building and racing 727's for nearly 50 years since then.

 

[66Satellite47]

For a convertor I would call Frank Lupo Dynamic.

 

[BSB67]

Hey guys,

Im getting my big block 727 rebuilt. I was having problems with reverse lately and having severe cork gasket leak. I finally changed gasket and new fluid. Reverse has apparently burned up. Wont even try to go back, but 1-3 forwards gears seem good.

So with plans in the future of adding a Gear Vendor Overdrive, I decided i might as well have the whole thing gone thru and maybe even add a shift kit? Not sure if thats even needed or would be helpful.

The shop I’ve selected to do it recommends getting a new stall converter while having it apart. I however have no knowledge of how to select what stall i need and my understanding is I currently have the factory 11” HP converter. Im wanting to get something that will work currently and with my planned future modifications. Its currently very slow and hardly breaks the tires loose.

The current specs on my car is:
‘68 Sport Satellite, formerly was a 318 car, got pulled.
‘68 HP stamped motor, factory 440 and trans out of donor car.
Edelbrock AVS2 800cfm
Factory 906 heads
Factory Intake manifold
Long tube headers
8 3/4 741 case with 2.76 (replacing with 3.55 soon and sure-grip)
Factory HP cam is 268/284 with .450/.458 lift.
Planning on changing to slightly larger Lunati Voodoo flat tap cam in the future not sure whats best for a street car, feel free to chime in.
700- .454/.454 lift, power band is
0-5000rpm
701- .454/475 lift, 1000-5500rpm
702- .475/.494 lift, 1400-5800rpm

Im not sure what other info is needed to select Stall, and im sure being in the middle of upgrading the car makes it hard to find something that works for current use and future plans. But if anyone has any knowledge or advice, please help. Thanks, -Pat

Unless there is something wrong with the converter you have, just use it. When future changes become a reality, then pick a converter.

 

[Moms68]

I recommend these guys highly. Family business for many years and they really know their stuff. Dynamic Racing Transmissions from Branford, CT.

Talk to J.R.

Search

 

[Dan64]

3X for Dynamic for the converter. The gear venders does change things a bit. The G.V. has a .78 overdrive ratio so basically my 4.10 will act like a 3.23 in 3rd over. This is great for cruising but makes for a confusing situation for the converter. The balancing act is to have enough flash stall so the converter can get the car off of the line but also not to much so that it is slipping too much while you're cruising at 2200 rpm. If you look on the G.V. website it states that G.V. wouldn't effect the converter and this is simply not true, don't get me wrong , I love my G.V. but a "off the self" converter ain't gonna cut it. Call Dynamic, they will build you what you need to make it all work together.

 

[68Satellite440]

3X for Dynamic for the converter. The gear venders does change things a bit. The G.V. has a .78 overdrive ratio so basically my 4.10 will act like a 3.23 in 3rd over. This is great for cruising but makes for a confusing situation for the converter. The balancing act is to have enough flash stall so the converter can get the car off of the line but also not to much so that it is slipping too much while you're cruising at 2200 rpm. If you look on the G.V. website it states that G.V. wouldn't effect the converter and this is simply not true, don't get me wrong , I love my G.V. but a "off the self" converter ain't gonna cut it. Call Dynamic, they will build you what you need to make it all work together.

How has your experience been with the GV so far? Good investment? Have any difficulties?

 

[topside]

I've had a GV in my Dually since the mid-'90s - it's been absolutely bulletproof and great for highway use, including towing - truck has a 4.10 gear.
Worth easily 3 MPG, not to mention wear & tear.
Every couple years I change the fluid, though it always looks fine.

 

[66Satellite47]

OP your motor combo is very straight forward. I have no idea how the GV will work. Call Frank Lupo Dynamic for the convertor advice.

 

[Dan64]

How has your experience been with the GV so far? Good investment? Have any difficulties?

The G.V. has been great so far, no problems at all. You got to figure out exactly want you want out of the car. If you are going to keep it mild or not try to drive it accross the county then I would save yourself a bunch of money and go with something like a 3.55 rear gear and call it done. Either way I would still call Frank Luppo's Dynamic converter in Delaware. They can build you a converter that will feel stock while you're cruising down the highway ( that's what you want) and also have enough flash to get your car into it's power range for the cam leaving the starting line. Your cam choices seem very streetable.

 

[dvw]

Personally for a good street strip converter I'd contact PTC. They make a great converter at a sensible price.
Doug

 

[Geoff 2]

With your intended mods, you do not need a stall c'ter. I would also pass on the GV, may have to chop up the body to fit it. You add more weight, & another gear train that absorbs HP & mileage.
Big engines like the 440 have a broad rpm range, don't need lots of gears.